sliding door handle help

[VWAIRCOOLED]

Hey,does anyone out there know how to remove the barrell from a sliding door handle? I have a decent sliding door handle to go on my 1970 Dormy,but no key.I have the original pitted tatty sliding door handle but I have the key for this.Is there any way to take the barrell out of the good handle which is locked and has no key?

 

[67 BAY]

Check the part that goes into door and you'll find a small screw head,remove it and barrel will come out.Wire brushing sometimes helps to see it.

Steve

 

[VWAIRCOOLED]

Managed to save the handle today.I tried for ages to pick the lock to release the collar,but failed.So cut it off with a grinder in the end which revealed the grub screw and out popped the barrell

 

[philstar]

I am in a similar position, I bought a brand-new sliding door handle, which is locked, but don't have the key for it...

What is my best option here—should I cut off the collar so I can replace the barrel (£??), and buy a new collar (Approx £30)? Or is this now a lost cause and would I be better off buying another handle with keys (£40—211-843-703HR)?

My bus has 4 different keys, one for the ignition, one for the cab doors, one for the sliding door, and one for the fuel cap. I've no idea where the keys are for the tailgate and engine lid.

 

[Earlybay1]

take the small grub screw out and the barrel should come out. You should find a number on the lock shaft and this will be what you need for a new key.

 

[davidoft]

I am in a similar position, I bought a brand-new sliding door handle, which is locked, but don't have the key for it...

What is my best option here—should I cut off the collar so I can replace the barrel (£??), and buy a new collar (Approx £30)? Or is this now a lost cause and would I be better off buying another handle with keys (£40—211-843-703HR)?

My bus has 4 different keys, one for the ignition, one for the cab doors, one for the sliding door, and one for the fuel cap. I've no idea where the keys are for the tailgate and engine lid.

You can drill a hole in the collar to access the grub screw , I’ll see if I can find the dimensions

 

[philstar]

@davidoft that would be great, if I can get a rough idea of the position of the grub screw underneath the collar I will try that!

 

[Earlybay1]

Here is a hack to make one key fit two locks or more. Take the barrel out of the one you want to modify and insert the key you want to use. File away the high spots and the key will now open this lock. Pick the key that makes the least number of highs. Remember the more highs you file off there is the possibility of other keys fitting. I reduced three key locks to one. Tailgate, doors and sliding door. Next is to make ign key fit engine cover. So will have 2 keys instead of 5. I filed a notch in the ign key too but paint would do too. If you have spare barrels you can use the innards to reduce filing but it is fiddly with the microscopic springs which are essential.

 

[philstar]

I have another problem.

I have replaced my sliding door lock with an identical NOS VW part no. 214 843 653 F (lucky I know):

I have replaced the door handle with a new one from Schofield, part no 211-843-703HR (Sliding Door Handle Outer with Keys, 68-73):

The door handle spindle will not fit through the square lock hole!

The new lock is the same as the lock I replaced, with the same-sized holes. A square screwdriver fits both, but the door handle won't fit either.

I know I can grind down the spindle a fraction to make it fit—but what's going on here? I have a 1971 bus (Friday, 04 June 1971 to be exact), do I have the correct lock? Here is a photo:

I can't measure the old sliding door handle spindle to compare because I had to cut it off, but the part number matches —apart from a "/P" at the end (though I don't know if this is a genuine handle):

Has anyone had this problem before?

 

[67panel]

Yes, had to file the repo handle on my bus. Just a poor replacement .

 

[ozziedog]

Don’t know , but wondering if the ‘P’ is for a panel? I do know there is several different lock variations out there to do with years but also panels are slightly different again. If I had to make a repro handle that wouldn’t sell that many, would I make one to suit each van or make a generic that would fit some but could be ground or filed down for the rest. Also, could be a Brazilly handle , then who would know what’s going on.

Ozziedog,,,,,,,,,,,don’t forget your safety glasses

 

[philstar]

Cheers guys—I filed it down with a flapdisc, fits great. The only trouble is, I now realise I've been sent the wrong lock—it's an early lock for 2 connecting rods, but my bus has 1 rod and 1 cable. Frustrating as both were pictured on the eBay photo, I was trying to be so careful with the German translation and neither of us checked which one to send. I can't believe they have the same part number!

So, I can either buy another remote lock for the front, OR replace the rear lock with an earlier 2-cable type to match this early remote lock.

I have got to start paying more attention!

 

[ozziedog]

Cheers guys—I filed it down with a flapdisc, fits great. The only trouble is, I now realise I've been sent the wrong lock—it's an early lock for 2 connecting rods, but my bus has 1 rod and 1 cable. Frustrating as both were pictured on the eBay photo, I was trying to be so careful with the German translation and neither of us checked which one to send. I can't believe they have the same part number!

So, I can either buy another remote lock for the front, OR replace the rear lock with an earlier 2-cable type to match this early remote lock.

I have got to start paying more attention!

Feeling your pain here bud. I’ve just had enough of the whole thing recently and I’ve been driving my van around with the motor running like a bag of ****. Went to an event on the weekend at Caldicot Castle and someone called Dan convinced me to strip the carbs down in the field and we found (he) the problem.

Ozziedog,,,,,, I’ll write up about it.