So what engine option do I go for?

[71Westy]

Following my seized engine issue, I thought I had the solution with a turnkey replacement. Unfortunately, that hasn't worked out.

So what do I do out of:
1. Remachine the remachined case and crank and rebuild it myself?
2. Buy a new case and crank and rebuild it myself?
3. Buy a recon short engine (if I can convince them to take my exchange engine in pieces), like Remtech or VEGE?
4 Buy a "new" VW Heritage one with 2 yea's guarantee, but at enormous expense?

I have never built an engine before, but done things like change heads on A-series engines. I have THE book to go by. It looks fairly straightforward, but then again I have no experience to go on.

Given my old engine used oil and overheated (and of course seized), option 1 doesn't look that great. But is likely to be the cheapest route.
Option 3 - well my last recon only lasted 2 years and 5K miles......

So, votes please

Nick

 

[Happystamps]

kind of depends what the old engine is like underneath. i'd be stripping it down to see what i can use and what i can't- if it's all ******, option two would be for me, or hidden option 5- ask around online and see if you can get a second hand one for peanuts- my last motor was £175, complete unknown from someone's garden, been stood for 6 months in the rain and it runs like a watch.

 

[K@rlos]

Following my seized engine issue, I thought I had the solution with a turnkey replacement. Unfortunately, that hasn't worked out.

So what do I do out of:
1. Remachine the remachined case and crank and rebuild it myself?
2. Buy a new case and crank and rebuild it myself?
3. Buy a recon short engine (if I can convince them to take my exchange engine in pieces), like Remtech or VEGE?
4 Buy a "new" VW Heritage one with 2 yea's guarantee, but at enormous expense?

I have never built an engine before, but done things like change heads on A-series engines. I have THE book to go by. It looks fairly straightforward, but then again I have no experience to go on.

Given my old engine used oil and overheated (and of course seized), option 1 doesn't look that great. But is likely to be the cheapest route.
Option 3 - well my last recon only lasted 2 years and 5K miles......

So, votes please

Nick

If you go for option 1 I still have an engine stripped down and boxed up if your interested? Just needs heads.


Don't want much gold for it either

 

[71Westy]

Oh yes, thanks Karl - that's option 1a And well worth a thought too. Would it need remachining?

Panelvan came round yesterday (thanks Chris - much appreciated) and had a look at my box of bits from the "original" engine. Camshaft is pitted - probably not worth re-using. Crank could be reground. Case is a already 0.50 over (well, that's what bearing are in it), and who knows how aligned it is. All the pistons are scratched showing quite a lot of debris was in there. All the barrels have scratch marks - at least one is scrap. I haven't removed the big ends yet - so there may be more lurking in there. So option 1 is out of the window as far as I am concerned.

 

[Trikky2]

Sorry to say I cant help much since I dont know the state of your old engine or your skills.

I would say that a lot also depends on the kind of use you have in mind for your bus.

If its just a toy and doesent go anywhere much and you have no plans to keep it long term, then a cheap rebuild or S/H engine will do. On the other hand if you intend traveling in it round Europe I would recommend building a new one or buying the Heritage all new one.

 

[james_stan]

Hmm

I would say option 2) but only if you go the stock route and are not tempted by the glittery
bits (new go-faster cam kits etc..). As soon as you go non-stock the build gets trickier (valve rocker
geometry, deck height setting etc.. and the costs rocket (ask me how I know..).

Keep it stock and you can probably get second-hand good parts cheap (Cam etc..) and cheap-er barrel and piston
sets to go with your new case and crank.

JS

BTW how come the cam was pitted if it was a recent rebuild ? Was/is it a 'performance type' not broken in properly or an old stocker ?

 

[71Westy]

I'm going for stock, reliable, bog standard - so I can actually use the van for camping on reasonably long trips.

The cam, well, what can I say. It was a (low cost, admittedly) reconditioned short engine from a well-known VW engine rebuild company. I suspect I got the next one along the shelf, which just happened to be pitted. Just like one of the pushrods, which appears to have been machined down for a short section of its length. There's a reason why such a rebuild is cheaper than the new bits I'm considering buying to piece it back together again.....

 

[K@rlos]

Oh yes, thanks Karl - that's option 1a And well worth a thought too. Would it need remachining?

Panelvan came round yesterday (thanks Chris - much appreciated) and had a look at my box of bits from the "original" engine. Camshaft is pitted - probably not worth re-using. Crank could be reground. Case is a already 0.50 over (well, that's what bearing are in it), and who knows how aligned it is. All the pistons are scratched showing quite a lot of debris was in there. All the barrels have scratch marks - at least one is scrap. I haven't removed the big ends yet - so there may be more lurking in there. So option 1 is out of the window as far as I am concerned.

I don't reckon so tbh, Some new bearings and rings would do it I reckon. I may have said before it does need a pair of twinport heads so providing your old heads are good (I assume your bus was TP) you'll be laughing

 

[71Westy]

Still thinking, but tending towards a load of new stuff to ty and build a motor that lasts - I want to keep the van a while.
And the thought that spending £££ will pay in the long run?

With that thought, I was talking to cool-air, and they have SCAT kits - new crank, cam, barrels, pistons etc that seem interesting - what's the verdict on going 1641 with a very slightly more lively cam for a little more torque?

Nick

 

[james_stan]

..With that thought, I was talking to cool-air, and they have SCAT kits - new crank, cam, barrels, pistons etc that seem interesting - what's the verdict on going 1641 with a very slightly more lively cam for a little more torque?

Nick

Tut, tut - what did we say about glittery parts just a few posts back :shock: - get thee behind me Satan !

 

[71Westy]

Ah, yes, sorry sir

 

[Trikky2]

:lol: Classic dilemma.

You wont see much difference from 1641, you would get more result from better breathing - but if the 1641 barrels and pistons are about the same price then its ok I guess.

An aftermarket cam wont give more torque, only more power but at higher rpm.

For more torque a stroker crank will give results as will upping the capacity to 1776 (or both of these for some real grunt) - but again, to get the benefit you need twin carbs and a better exhaust. Additionally, unless your crank case is really good it would be wise to replace it too.

This is the merry-go-round of whats nice and what your willing to pay for

 

[71Westy]

No, no, no...... stop it

If I go the new bits route, I'll stick to bog standard. I'm reading Tom Watts book with slight trepidation, but it looks quite straightfoward (I have an engineering background, but mainly electronics). Just removed a conrod and it seemed ok - those might be the only bits I reuse! (The bearing on that was scored too). I take it that it's normal to regrind the main bearings and not the big end bearings (they're std)?

Nick

 

[71Westy]

Tom Wilson even

 

[67panel]

am i right,the engine that siezed was recon ,line bored and crank reground.only done low miles.bearings not spun in case. just rebuild it with new bearings ,clean up bearing journals,bores scored ?fit new p&bs,what i would do is fit removable oil way plugs ,then give it the best clean since the crown jewels :shock: asemble in a very clean area,use assembly lube ect,worth fitting a full flow filter as well.

 

[71Westy]

I had someone with long experience of working on VW engines come and have a look last night. He reckons it was not crap in the oil that caused the issue, but oil starvation to bearings. He was happy with the pump, but thought that it was oil loss through some of the bearings. The camshaft shows signs of flapping about on the centre bearing. All bearings show signs of oil starvation. He was surpised the flywheel end bearing had lasted so long! The crank needs a regrind, the cam is past it, and the pistons and barrels need honing (which probably doesn't cost in). And the case would need careful measurement before deciding what to do..... Very interesting watching him go through it all.

I have decided that with my limited experience, I'm gonna splash some cash and get a new engine from VWH. If I was going to pootle around here to local shows, I'd probably have a go at a rebuild. But I use the bus for long trips and family holidays, so I am after some reliability (yes, I know....... but I can hope!!!).

I really appreciate all the advice, folk. One excellent thing to come from this is that I have learnt a huge amount! To think a year ago I dared not remove the engine from the bus!

Nick

 

[weeboll]

i'd be going for option 5 and option 1

get a 2nd hand runner to tide you over whilst you rebuild yours at leisure from cheap parts gained from trolling around on EB.. and then you always have a spare

expensive reliable stock engines are overrated, especially when another van overtakes you and the twin carb, hot cam, head job thoughts start swirling around!

here's a case to get started (nothing to do with me!) but its an F1 code which means 1300 or 1600

http://www.volkszone.com/VZi/showthread.php?t=730974" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;