switch wiring - wiring what to what

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Haveacamper

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ok, i'm now starting to consider the wiring part of the restoration and i'm going to attempt to wire the camper from scratch. what i'm after is the details of wiring up the switches for lights, indicators etc.

i know that you can get the wiring diagram, but i was wondering if anyone knew of website which listed how to wire up the relays and switches i.e. a relay with 30, 31, 87, 87a that lists which one is live, earth signal etc.

the reason why i am opting to wire it myself and not buy a manufactured one is partially because i'm running custom dials, porsche engine and intending to have some liesure electrics.

cheers

NaFe
 
start here Nafe

http://www.vintagebus.com/wiring/defs.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
 
have a look here for the wire http://www.autosparks.co.uk" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;, i made my loom using the thinwall pvc cable, had all the original wiring loom colours and cost around £25 with a couple of extra bits
 
pinheaduk said:
have a look here for the wire http://www.autosparks.co.uk" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;, i made my loom using the thinwall pvc cable, had all the original wiring loom colours and cost around £25 with a couple of extra bits

i've just bought a massive amount of wires from there cheers.

i'll be making a start as soon as the camper is back from the bodyshop. lay out all the wires and then i'll start to think about connectors and plugs etc o ye, and fusebox.

cheers for the help

NaFe
 
hello, just seen you've done the hard work in identifying what you need I was just about to go out and do this myself, what wiring did you order? if you dont mind me asking..

Cheers

Araon
 
i've done it a bit of an arse about tit way of doing it (excuse the phrase)

i've got a bit of a mungle wiring loom with porsche, VW, aftermarket stuff and leisure appliances.

i started by looking at the wiring diagram for VW and looked at the colours coming from the switches as a starteer for ten. thickness wise, i went for the 0.5mm, 1.mm, and 2.0mm. i think the 2mm should be ok for up to 2.5mm considering that 2mm these days can take up to 25AMP

NaFe
 
Yeah thats what I'm doing at the moment, trying to trace the wiring from the fusebox is a pain due to the overspray...

cheers fella
 
to make your life a bit easier, it may be worth looking on the actual wiring diagram on thesamba and then estimate. i think i easily over estimated so i will have spare, incase of errors etc.

last thing i wanted was to be butchering my wiring before i've done any miles.



dammit i just remembered that i forgot to purchase some scotch blocks :)
 
Haveacamper said:
dammit i just remembered that i forgot to purchase some scotch blocks :)
Ahhhh scotch locks the product of Satan :evil: use anything but these please! If you need to join 3 wires together I tend to use a double ended crimp, but usually you can just run two wires into the crimp where it connects.

Arran.
 
Sparky said:
Haveacamper said:
dammit i just remembered that i forgot to purchase some scotch blocks :)
Ahhhh scotch locks the product of Satan :evil: use anything but these please! If you need to join 3 wires together I tend to use a double ended crimp, but usually you can just run two wires into the crimp where it connects.

Arran.


haha, just kidding mate. i'll be soldering all junction points and shrink wrapping them
 
To be fair I thought you were kidding.
I don't know what the current thinking is on making joints in vehicles but I was always led to believe that a crimp joint is stronger that soldering. Something to do with the solder wicking up the conductors and making the flex ridged, causing there to be a week point at the end. Having said that none of the solder joints I have carried out have ever failed. I'm sure if they are well sleeved that will solve any mechanical problems.

Arran.
 
i have heard about the "proposed" problems with soldering. I worked for Linde Fork lift company when i was going through university and used to make one off harnesses for one-off customers. when we were making harnesses from scratch i was solder where possible. for example, when we had multiple earth points we'd put solder them into one wire to earch to the body.

my school of thought is that its going to last longer than crimping, especially as a crimp has the possibility of being pulled out.

NaFe

p.s. the late Boyd Coddington soldered so i'll continue in his train of thought :)
 
i personally soldered mine but the most modern canbus systems do use scotchloks or insulation displacement connections as they are now known because they are less invasive
strange but true
 

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