Unwelded dropped spindles - TransporterHaus & T2D pics& q's

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dubdubz

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Hi I have Transporterhaus dropped spindles on my 68 nay and they are very good.

There is a couple of queries I have and wondered if other users of either brand have had similar and could add pics?


1. The backing plate on the 71/72 brakes needed trimming [well a section cutting out!] to clear the bottom ball joint is this something that is expected?

IMG_1874.jpg


2. haven't got a pic of this as yet...the brake hose to hard line that goes into the caliper bracket that normally fixes to the underside of the Top balljoint can't go there?? can it? so I put mine on top under the repositioned balljoint nut, with some minor grinding!!
what have other done [or how is it fixed/fitted by say T2D]

3. The Camber nut is now on the bottom - I believe this is the case for both products, what is the best way to adjust this as the weight is now on the bottom joint more so than when it was on the top....as in the tyre will stop it moving in or out so it'll be tricky to gauge imho??

my thoughts were to jack up slightly to reduce pressure on tyre and adjust as you would normally.....

is it easier than that ie as per normal or are there as I suspect a knack to doing it??


These are just minor observations and the product I have I am more than happy with, just curious to see how others have tackled these issues or if in fact they are just me!!


thanks

I'll try and get some more pics soon but it's chucking it down here!!
 
dubdubz said:
The backing plate on the 71/72 brakes needed trimming [well a section cutting out!] to clear the bottom ball joint is this something that is expected?

This is what I had to do too

IMG_1874.jpg


2. haven't got a pic of this as yet...the brake hose to hard line that goes into the caliper bracket that normally fixes to the underside of the Top balljoint can't go there?? can it? so I put mine on top under the repositioned balljoint nut, with some minor grinding!!
what have other done [or how is it fixed/fitted by say T2D]

Again I did the same to mine - tried to contact T2D about this, but as it was the weekend of a show there wasn't anyone who knew what to do in, so i proceeded as I mentioned

3. The Camber nut is now on the bottom - I believe this is the case for both products, what is the best way to adjust this as the weight is now on the bottom joint more so than when it was on the top....as in the tyre will stop it moving in or out so it'll be tricky to gauge imho??

Can't remember about how i did this now?

my thoughts were to jack up slightly to reduce pressure on tyre and adjust as you would normally.....

is it easier than that ie as per normal or are there as I suspect a knack to doing it??


These are just minor observations and the product I have I am more than happy with, just curious to see how others have tackled these issues or if in fact they are just me!!


thanks

I'll try and get some more pics soon but it's chucking it down here!!
 
cool - thanks

the castor thing is confusing me..........I'm sure its easy with the knowhow..............again it was if I goto a tyre place I would like to know how to explain to them what to do......

it was a case of this, was my solutions to the few minor niggles and wondered if I had been longwinded/stupid/correct!!

The backing plate for reference may need some more removed - the shape shown is really the minimum in my opinion, the front should be in the air on sunday to chk the gearlinkage rod which I think still fouls the adjusters :cry:

if I do then I'll take some installed pics - which will hopefully maybe help someone out?
 
I'd certainly be helped by some more reference pics. Also, I note you are running adjusters as well as dropped spindles. Do you have any other clearance issues such as tie rods? Do you have any pics of how low the van sits on the bottom adjuster setting and dropped spindles? Ta!
 
bottom rung said:
I'd certainly be helped by some more reference pics. Also, I note you are running adjusters as well as dropped spindles. Do you have any other clearance issues such as tie rods? Do you have any pics of how low the van sits on the bottom adjuster setting and dropped spindles? Ta!


can't remember about tie rod clearance - sure that was ok?

I'l get some more pics and put them here tomorrow........

ok a bit late

IMG_0188.jpg


IMG_0191.jpg


IMG_0190.jpg


I've taken the tierods off to reshorten them - I erred on the side of caution and caution won this time so they needed some more off!
 
I also run the Transporterhaus spindles on my '77. I had to trim the backingplate similar like you did on the pics. The caster nut is on the bottomside and can be adjusted. I noticed that the bottom arm nearly touched the brakedisc because the camber nut was set to to wrong side (marking has to point forward and a bit to the outside)

About brakelines: the original brakeline was short, too short in my case. I also mounted the brakeline bracket to the top arm but that didn't make the brakeline any longer :) I then removed the bracket completely and took the hard and flexible brakelines off the caliper to change them with a single flexible Beetle brakeline. Fits great now.

About tierods: I have a narrowed beam so I used narrowed tierods. The Transporterhaus spindles are made to mount the tierods from the bottom up to have some more frame clearance.
 
Im using T2D.

I had no backplate issues (68).
The brake flexi hose I just routed as best as I could without the guide tube ... it seems ok.
Paul told me to adjust to maximum camber and leave it like that ... no issues so far.

When I fist set mine I lowered it as far as poss with the adjusters, it went down until the front chassis sat on the floor ... but beware the angles mean that moving the adjusters 'back up' is a right pain!
 
I think the clearance on the plates is only on discs ? pretty sure that's the case and maybe only the 72 discs?

the top bracket isn't a guide tube? it's where the flexi and the rigid join and they need to be fixed by the spring clip.

Clem could you do a pic from the rear of the backing plate similar angle to mine above to compare? pretty please :mrgreen:
 
dubdubz said:
sparkywig said:
How about dust shields, etc on the Transporterhaus spindles?
I know the T2D ones haven't got any, and recommend regreasing every month or so.

ok me is confused?


And me ...
 
Clem said:
dubdubz said:
sparkywig said:
How about dust shields, etc on the Transporterhaus spindles?
I know the T2D ones haven't got any, and recommend regreasing every month or so.

ok me is confused?


And me ...


I'm trying to make a choice between Transporterhaus and T2D dropped spindles.
We've fitted a couple of sets of T2D spindles to split vans at my mate's workshop, and to tell you the truth they're a right pain in the ass.
Backplate turned through 90 degrees, brake flexible to bottom cylinder, leading edges of brake shoes now trailing, no protection from the elements due to the dust caps not fitting.
T2D say themselves that they need regreasing every couple of months.
Are the Transporterhaus ones any better?
Or do these problems not arise on balljoint beams?
 
I take it your comparing to k n l dropped spindles. None of the problems you refer to. The only issue i'd say is as the bay beam's lower torsion tube and end plates sits nearer the ground to a splits, having a full travel dropped balljoint spindle means you are compromised by how low you can go before your hitting the road.
 
cyberdyne systems said:
I take it your comparing to k n l dropped spindles. None of the problems you refer to. The only issue i'd say is as the bay beam's lower torsion tube and end plates sits nearer the ground to a splits, having a full travel dropped balljoint spindle means you are compromised by how low you can go before your hitting the road.


Thanks, that's not a problem, I'll just cut off and plate the bottoms of the end plates.
 
sparkywig said:
cyberdyne systems said:
I take it your comparing to k n l dropped spindles. None of the problems you refer to. The only issue i'd say is as the bay beam's lower torsion tube and end plates sits nearer the ground to a splits, having a full travel dropped balljoint spindle means you are compromised by how low you can go before your hitting the road.


Thanks, that's not a problem, I'll just cut off and plate the bottoms of the end plates.

I must get round to doing that myself - its probably nearly clearanced itself by now though! :lol:
 
this thread will be helping me :) i spoke to alex at transporterhaus where i got mine from and he sais yes there will need to be a bit trimmed of the backing plate so not to bad me thinks,hope to be fitting mine soon so will get lots of pics
anyone got anymore pics of the brake pipe and what you have had to do with that????
 
What do guys think about the nut on the threaded part of the balljoint? With the joints being upside down the spindle is pushing up against it all the time.
My concern is that the threads may pull under load allowing the tapered part of the joint to come away. With the balljoint now upside down the trailing arm is pushing downward and the spindle is pushing up.

I've emailed Alex and he says that he is confident that the two parts will not seperate.
I would really like to buy these to replace my 2 1/2" spindles but need 100% confidence in them first.
 
Frisco69 said:
I would really like to buy these to replace my 2 1/2" spindles but need 100% confidence in them first.

From what I understand T2d bought the design off Dutch engineers who spend many years and thousands of kilometers developing this -these have been around for a while now and no problems.

Or to think of it this way, T2d have the correct product insurance so do you really think they would risk their business but selling something that would fail.....I didn't think so.

T2d make a pukker product, I have some.

Buy them, you won't regret it.
 
mattp said:
Frisco69 said:
I would really like to buy these to replace my 2 1/2" spindles but need 100% confidence in them first.

From what I understand T2d bought the design off Dutch engineers who spend many years and thousands of kilometers developing this -these have been around for a while now and no problems.

Or to think of it this way, T2d have the correct product insurance so do you really think they would risk their business but selling something that would fail.....I didn't think so.

T2d make a pukker product, I have some.

Buy them, you won't regret it.

All true. I know half of slammed panel who initially developed them and ran them for years. The design was then taken into production by T2D and KieftenKlok, niether of whom are fly by night operations.

They are way safer then the cut and welded beams at maximum ball joint travel that everyone ran for years in the past!
 

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