Very Squeaky front brakes

[danbus]

Hello all,
Think i registered a long while back, then many things happened in life, so I've re-registered. And I'm diving straight in for some advice if possible.

firstly:
'71 microbus conversion to camper [J reg].
112 pcd wheels,
all the roundy bits in the right places
lowered a bit at the front [cut n turn i believe, caning the ball joints...!]
2l engine shoved in the back.

So, I have noticed since about july/august that the bus has been developing a worsening squeak in the brakes. Probably done about 1500 / 2000 miles like this, and took her out on saturday and it was quite embarrassing. What started out as a minor irritant last year, that was noticeable when turning left, is now a fairly loud constant squeak. It only disappears when the brakes are applied. I had it up at the garage for a service in august prior to going on a big euro trip [which never happened in the van [broke me clavicle]] and did ask for the problem to be dealt with. the situation was never rectified - the mech saying that with the awkward crossover year the disc pads are thinner than following years and often suffer from binding/sticking- which mine were doing... So I'm wondering what to do about it all really.
Should I attempt a stripdown of the front brakes? is it something I can do in the warmth of my home? [once the things are removed?]
perhaps i should just try fitting a new set of pads. could that help?
and maybe the set of pads i purchased last time round were the wrong ones...?


hmmm pondering... anyone with similar experience?

hope y'all can advise.

d

 

[Araon]

how long after fitting the new pads did the squeak materialise? the 73> brakes were indeed larger as were the pads early 10mm late 14mm so a huge difference....

Whats happening when you jack up and spin by hand? any binding? discs true? pistons retracting from the disc?

They can be worked on in front of the telly but be aware the female of the species tend to frown a little when trying to clean oil,paint or bake fluid from the carpet, and have on occassion been known to banish males to the cold...

 

[noddy]

It sounds to me like the pads are not backing off fully.

Quick easy clean, is to buy a tin of spray brake cleaner, its whats behind the pad you need to clean the piston side. This may only cure the problem for a short period of time.

If it were me I would remove the pads, take the calipers off the mounts (level hoses connected.
Pump the pistons out about 10mm max, brush off any road grime or minor corrosion from the pistons (use a spark plug brush with brass bristles this wont score the piston). then get your self some rubber grease (this can be bought from halford red in colour), grease round the pistons lightly (if you apply too much it will attract road dirt and become abrasive).
Push pistons back in, pump in and out a little to get grease behind the dust seal (take care not to pop the pistons do one side at a time)

When you put your pads back in apply a thing smear of copper grease to the metal backer plate on the pad, this can help stop the pad vibrating.

This should help as the pistons should be able to retract easier.

If the pistons are heavly corroded you may need to strip the calipers down and replace the pistons and seals. this is a job you can do on the kitchen table once you have the worst of the road muck off the calipers.

After every winter on my bike I strip the calipers and clean.

hope this helps.

 

[danbus]

very very useful reply there, thanks very much!
I'll have a flick through the haynes and see if i have interpreted your instructions correctly...
how long should all that take then do you reckon?

d

 

[noddy]

depends on condition of the pistons mainly. If heavily corroded and in need of replacement (providing you have all the tools and parts to hand) a day to take out strip clean and rebuild with new pistons and seals.

If lightly gummed up with road dirt, an hour per side if you dont need to take the calipers off.

Try cleaning the calipers with spray brake cleaner first, you can do this with the calipers on the van, you only need to take the pads out.

The only other thing that may be causing the pads to stay on is the adjustment of the push rod at the end of the master cylinder if these is ) clearance this may cause your problem, but is unlikely unless you have worked on the MC recently.

 

[danbus]

you know what, it has actually got a fairly recently replaced master cylinder, after the old one failed at the workshop. It would be fairly easy to adjust this then I guess?

d

 

[matt-me]

very very useful reply there, thanks very much!

I agree, Nice one Noddy

 

[noddy]

Only needs 1mm clearance max.

 

[danbus]

digging this one up again, sorry!
i did the best i could at the time, but haven't really done the best job as i couldn't find rubber grease ANYWHERE...
any clues as to where i can find it, halfords don't seem to stock it.

i also have a quick question about the brake cleaner spray... can i just spray this all over the place or do i have to be really careful about getting it on the dIscs? i get the feeling i could have been more liberal.

trial...and...error time :?

sorry to resurface only to ask more questions... trying to get things hunky dory before truck festival next weekend!


db

 

[aogrady]

Hi!

Lots of stuff on Ebay as always:

http://shop.ebay.co.uk/?_from=R40&_trksid=m38.l1313&_nkw=red+rubber+grease&_sacat=See-All-Categories" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

As with all calipers, always a good idea to clean and tidy them up, but check for any play in the wheel bearings - this could cause it maybe? Worth a go for free?

Cheers!

Alistair

 

[danbus]

great idea on the grease front. i'm going there now!