wheel bearings and stuff

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swartie

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how easy is it to change the wheel bearings on a van?

considering sending my bus in for new shocks, new wheel bearings and new brakes all round. I am not sure when last it was done and I am going away next month to south of France. so would be nice to know everything down there is ok.

secondly, what shocks can people suggest, My van is lowered and if i hit the smallest of potholes, it jolts the whole van, i have been told i should get harder shocks. or maybe i should just raise the van. my last van never rode this badly.
 
Yes, they are fairly easy to do. There are a few points of interest though. I have found it beneficial to never re-use your old races (the metal rings that the bearing rides in)...always use the ones supplied with the bearings. Usually I take the drum and completely clean out all the old grease, better to start with a clean template. I have a hydraulic press, so it makes it easier to just press the races out. You can also tap them out very carefully using a brass drift.
Once out, I clean and check the area where the race sat. If you can, have a shop press the new ones in. Other than that, make sure the inner and outer bearings are in their right places and well greased. The grease seals on the markets nowadays are truly a PITA when tapping them in. They seem to be a few millimeters to large. Just go easy with even pressure or buy a few extra for the fun of it.
Put the whole assembly back on the spindle (usually the outer bearing is easier to put in at this point) and make sure the drum isn't cocked at all.
I shove a little more grease in at this point, install the washer, and lastly the spindle nut. Important note is that when the spindle nut starts to tighten, make sure you spin the drum at the same time. This prevents the bearings from binding.
If you had a micrometer you could check the bearing axial play by wiggling the tire back and forth at 10 o'clock and 4 o'clock. I believe the Bentley Book says 001"-005" play allowed...or tighten the spindle nut and try to pry the washer side to side with a screwdriver...there should be the slightest bit of movement. If good, tighten the hex screw in the spindle nut to 11-14 ft. lbs. Re-check the axial play/washer movement after tightening the hex head. Good again? Put the dust cap back on, do the other side the same and kick back with a cider when done 8) .

As for shocks, KYB GR-2's in the front and KYB Gas-Adjust in the back. If money ever allows, I'm going to change my lower torsion arms on my 69 Crew Cab for 70 torsion arms and get a set of adjustable Koni's. My friend's 70 Deluxe has front and rears and they turn your early bus into a completely different driving machine.

Pfffeww...sorry for the long post. :lol:
 
Yes , the KYB Gas-Adjusts are white with red lettering and the GR-2's are silver I believe. As for the combination on what to use for front and rear you may want to ask Slammedresto or someone with a lowered bus for I really don't have any experiences with lowered buses. I would think that the Gas-Adjusts would be too much for a lowered bus though.
 
Anyone done the front bearings without a press? I have the inner races out, but not sure I can get the outer races out. Any tips?
 

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