Which oil

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Darren2030

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Hi
Just after a little bit of advice on engine oil and which is best to use on a 1641 sp engine with Weber 34 ict carbs? Been looking on the westway lubricants shop on eBay and they have a 20w50 and a 10w40 didn’t know which was better to use for my engine?

Thanks
 
Personal choice here I’m afraid bud. So long as it’s a. Multiflavoured and mineral based oil I think you’re good to go. Three to five thousand miles was the recommended oil changes when they were new so maybe a tad more often with a little wear and tear here and there. You have the same recipes as mine 1641 and twin 34s on a TP and stock ignition . You can go crazy spending a hundred plus pounds for each oil change but there is really no need.These old motors ran for thousands of miles on lube that so long as it was mineral was fine. I run Halfords classic multi flavour mineral based oil , I think it’s 10:40 or thereabouts, I wouldn’t necessarily bother with 50 strength , not even in the summer. Westway lubes are fab for sure but this is a fairly agricultural type of motor we have here and not a Testarosa in any way shape or form. :)

Ozziedog,,,,,,,,change frequently is all. :)
 
Hi
Just after a little bit of advice on engine oil and which is best to use on a 1641 sp engine with Weber 34 ict carbs? Been looking on the westway lubricants shop on eBay and they have a 20w50 and a 10w40 didn’t know which was better to use for my engine?

Thanks
I have the same set up as you and have been using Westway 20w50 for a while now without any problems 👍

As Ozzie rightly points out, regular changes are the key 👍
 
Last edited:
Hi
Just after a little bit of advice on engine oil and which is best to use on a 1641 sp engine with Weber 34 ict carbs? Been looking on the westway lubricants shop on eBay and they have a 20w50 and a 10w40 didn’t know which was better to use for my engine?

Thanks
I use their 10w/40 myself👍
 
Thanks for the reply’s fellas and yeah defo agree with Ozziedog regular changes are key which is what I always do couple times a year, I was also looking back on previous posts and people mention the importance of the zddp content in the oil which is good for our old engines!?

Darren
 
Just to add to this little bit. The only other thing that I’m not a fan of ,,,,, is mixing oils. This could be a mental block or a hangover from days of old when certain oils wouldn’t mix well with other brands of oils. This may also be a moot point nowadays. I like to do an oil change and still have a couple of litres to carry around with me for topping up wherever and whenever. As I do an oil change, I use old one litre gearbox oil containers with a long pipe / spout which are great for topping up and a couple of these can sit down between the wheel well and the battery. So first off when I fill, I use the left over fresh oil in these containers then refill and that’ll be my reserve sorted out too. :)

Ozziedog,,,,,,,,,but just might be a load of blocks :)
 
Thanks for the reply’s fellas and yeah defo agree with Ozziedog regular changes are key which is what I always do couple times a year, I was also looking back on previous posts and people mention the importance of the zddp content in the oil which is good for our old engines!?

Darren
Plus Phosphorus & Sulphur.
 
You might find it useful to read Richard Atwell's VW Type 2 technical pages about engine lubricating oils and their specifications:

https://www.ratwell.com/technical/OilSelection.html

The principal reason for the 3,000 miles or 5,000 kilometres oil-change intervals, was the lack of any proper oil filtration and the fact that both the mono-grade & multi-grade mineral oils, oxidise rapidly under high operating temperatures found in VW air-cooled engines.

When using conventional mineral oil, my VW 1600 Type 2's engine oil turned black and contained a large quantity of glutinous sludge after 3,000 miles. Oil consumption rate was about 1 litre per 1,000 miles, so on long European tours, frequent top-ups were necessary and engine oil in European service stations was expensive.

When using API SF or API SG, SAE 5W/50 Mobil 1 fully-synthetic oil, there was barely any colour change from light-straw, absolutely no sludge formation and circa one-quarter to one-third the rate of oil consumption. Whether one can find similar fully-synthetic oil with the appropriate additives package these days, is open to debate.
 
You might find it useful to read Richard Atwell's VW Type 2 technical pages about engine lubricating oils and their specifications:

https://www.ratwell.com/technical/OilSelection.html

The principal reason for the 3,000 miles or 5,000 kilometres oil-change intervals, was the lack of any proper oil filtration and the fact that both the mono-grade & multi-grade mineral oils, oxidise rapidly under high operating temperatures found in VW air-cooled engines.

When using conventional mineral oil, my VW 1600 Type 2's engine oil turned black and contained a large quantity of glutinous sludge after 3,000 miles. Oil consumption rate was about 1 litre per 1,000 miles, so on long European tours, frequent top-ups were necessary and engine oil in European service stations was expensive.

When using API SF or API SG, SAE 5W/50 Mobil 1 fully-synthetic oil, there was barely any colour change from light-straw, absolutely no sludge formation and circa one-quarter to one-third the rate of oil consumption. Whether one can find similar fully-synthetic oil with the appropriate additives package these days, is open to debate.


How ya doin Nigel ????

Ozziedog,,,,, what shows are you at this year bud ? :)
 
You might find it useful to read Richard Atwell's VW Type 2 technical pages about engine lubricating oils and their specifications:

https://www.ratwell.com/technical/OilSelection.html

The principal reason for the 3,000 miles or 5,000 kilometres oil-change intervals, was the lack of any proper oil filtration and the fact that both the mono-grade & multi-grade mineral oils, oxidise rapidly under high operating temperatures found in VW air-cooled engines.

When using conventional mineral oil, my VW 1600 Type 2's engine oil turned black and contained a large quantity of glutinous sludge after 3,000 miles. Oil consumption rate was about 1 litre per 1,000 miles, so on long European tours, frequent top-ups were necessary and engine oil in European service stations was expensive.

When using API SF or API SG, SAE 5W/50 Mobil 1 fully-synthetic oil, there was barely any colour change from light-straw, absolutely no sludge formation and circa one-quarter to one-third the rate of oil consumption. Whether one can find similar fully-synthetic oil with the appropriate additives package these days, is open to debate.
Wow that’s some seriously good info on oils there mate thanks for posting very much appreciated fella cheers
 
I was in the US for a short time and I asked which brand/flavour of oil I should get there. I mentioned that in Europe, I use 15W50 or 20W50. I was almost flamed for that, the oil I should put is 5W30 because VW recommended SAE30. I ended up finding some 20W50 mineral on my own...
 
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