1955cc engine spec

[atafonso]

https://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e158/nat_bighair/06100033.jpg

There you go

Abel

 

[megaaircooled]

Just to note ,to break one of these cranks,there must have been a serious issue to break it.

 

[atafonso]

Maybe there was a defect on the manufacturing, could be a grain issue, nobody x ray these as the price would be considerably higher.
For that reason i decided not to use 4140 anymore.If there’s an issue with the manufacturing of the 4340 at least the material is stronger to begin with.

Abel

 

[megaaircooled]

Forged components dont suffer with a "grain" issue,they are tuff as old boots,something catastrophic has happened to make them fail.

 

[atafonso]

When i said a grain issue, i meant a flaw in the forging process which anyone, even the misinformed, has to agree that happens.
Just because a crank is forged does not mean is unbreakable. I have seen with my own eyes, i am not being a keyboard warrior like many on the forums. Also the 4140 forging is not near as strong as the 4340. CB Performance only offer their engine kits wth the 4140 crank for the low horsepower units, that should tell you something

Abel

 

[VeeDubMan]

When i said a grain issue, i meant a flaw in the forging process which anyone, even the misinformed, has to agree that happens.
Just because a crank is forged does not mean is unbreakable. I have seen with my own eyes, i am not being a keyboard warrior like many on the forums. Also the 4140 forging is not near as strong as the 4340. CB Performance only offer their engine kits wth the 4140 crank for the low horsepower units, that should tell you something[emoji6]

Abel

Hmmm, I got mine from Heritage https://www.vwheritage.com/ac105054-ssp-counterweighted-crankshaft-forged-76mm-vw-journal-vw-spare

Looks to be their own sourced product. Hopefully it'll be ok in my low spec 1955 with twin 34's

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[atafonso]

When i said a grain issue, i meant a flaw in the forging process which anyone, even the misinformed, has to agree that happens.
Just because a crank is forged does not mean is unbreakable. I have seen with my own eyes, i am not being a keyboard warrior like many on the forums. Also the 4140 forging is not near as strong as the 4340. CB Performance only offer their engine kits wth the 4140 crank for the low horsepower units, that should tell you something[emoji6]

Abel

Hmmm, I got mine from Heritage https://www.vwheritage.com/ac105054-ssp-counterweighted-crankshaft-forged-76mm-vw-journal-vw-spare

Looks to be their own sourced product. Hopefully it'll be ok in my low spec 1955 with twin 34's

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Steve did you receive your crank already? Check all the radiuses on the journals, they have to be really smooth and above all, present. Look for any flaws on the forging and if you find any defects or inconsistencies near the journals just send it back. If the above ticks all the boxes, install the crank gears and get the crank, flywheel, pressure plate and pulley all balanced by a reputable company. You should be fine imho

Abel

 

[VeeDubMan]

Yep...arrived last week. Will check it out at the weekend. Found an old school machine shop/engine rebuilder relatively close by to me 'Classic and Modern Engine Services in Bracknell (http://cmesuk.com/) who can clearance the case, bore for 90.5, port/polish the heads and get it all balanced etc. so as soon as I've dismantled the original installation, it'll be off to them.

I know I asked you on your YouTube video of your 1955cc, but what stock-weight type of pulley do you normally go for?

I've got a stock clutch too at the moment - that need an upgrade?

 

[megaaircooled]

You need to get the con rods big end bearings,pistons balanced too.that is match weighted.

 

[K@rlos]

Yep...arrived last week. Will check it out at the weekend. Found an old school machine shop/engine rebuilder relatively close by to me 'Classic and Modern Engine Services in Bracknell (http://cmesuk.com/) who can clearance the case, bore for 90.5, port/polish the heads and get it all balanced etc. so as soon as I've dismantled the original installation, it'll be off to them.

I know I asked you on your YouTube video of your 1955cc, but what stock-weight type of pulley do you normally go for?

I've got a stock clutch too at the moment - that need an upgrade?

I’d use a Kennedy stage 1 personally. A stock clutch may well get overwhelmed by the extra torque of a stroker

 

[megaaircooled]

What sort of HP are you looking at with this combination.

 

[VeeDubMan]

What sort of HP are you looking at with this combination.

90-100 I reckon. It's the torque for getting a fully laden early bay up those Devon hills though I'm looking for [emoji4]

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[megaaircooled]

Can understand about the torque,but thats a lot of cost for only 90 to 100 horse.

 

[atafonso]

Yep...arrived last week. Will check it out at the weekend. Found an old school machine shop/engine rebuilder relatively close by to me 'Classic and Modern Engine Services in Bracknell (http://cmesuk.com/) who can clearance the case, bore for 90.5, port/polish the heads and get it all balanced etc. so as soon as I've dismantled the original installation, it'll be off to them.

I know I asked you on your YouTube video of your 1955cc, but what stock-weight type of pulley do you normally go for?

I've got a stock clutch too at the moment - that need an upgrade?

I’d use a Kennedy stage 1 personally. A stock clutch may well get overwhelmed by the extra torque of a stroker

I have been using a good quality stock clutch for normal use with zero issues, but as Karlos said, if you could stretch your budget to a Kennedy stage 1 that would be an upgrade an also extra insurance. The stock pp would be border line with the extra torque and if one day you decide to start dumping the clutch, with the stock it would probably start to slip soon. But as i said, for normal driving i have had zero reported issues.

The pulley i like using is the old tried and tested Gen VW, i only make sure it’s straight before i send it to be balanced with the rotating assembly.

Abel

 

[K@rlos]

I’ve seen 1776’s overwhelm a stock clutch and need a stage 1. So I’d strongly advise it with a stroker.

 

[megaaircooled]

I’ve seen 1776’s overwhelm a stock clutch and need a stage 1. So I’d strongly advise it with a stroker.

Agreed.

 

[VeeDubMan]

As for cam for a mild build I really like the Engle w110 with stock rockers on bolt up shafts. Lots of grunt but will rev up a bit if you want it too. But that’s all down to personal driving style etc

Stock springs or would I need an upgrade on those too to a single HD valve springs?

 

[VeeDubMan]

...and think I'l need a new engine case after this came back from the cleaning process:

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1-IjXRNUGJedPUncXE6nXKIO_LSpeV3Ca

 

[jonboylaw]

C35 works in a 1955 engine. Plenty of torque.
If keeping the stock valve sizes, you should get a decent 3 angle seat cut and back cut the valves for flow.


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[atafonso]

As for cam for a mild build I really like the Engle w110 with stock rockers on bolt up shafts. Lots of grunt but will rev up a bit if you want it too. But that’s all down to personal driving style etc

Stock springs or would I need an upgrade on those too to a single HD valve springs?

Stock springs are to be used only with stock cam or a very very mild cam really close to stock. Anything that will rev more than 4.5k rpm’s will need more spring pressure. I use HD singles for up to 6k, from there it must be duals then CB650 or more if revving really high.

Abel