https://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e158/nat_bighair/06100033.jpg
There you go![Face with hand over mouth :face_with_hand_over_mouth: š¤](https://cdn.jsdelivr.net/joypixels/assets/8.0/png/unicode/64/1f92d.png)
Abel
There you go
![Face with hand over mouth :face_with_hand_over_mouth: š¤](https://cdn.jsdelivr.net/joypixels/assets/8.0/png/unicode/64/1f92d.png)
Abel
Hmmm, I got mine from Heritage https://www.vwheritage.com/ac105054-ssp-counterweighted-crankshaft-forged-76mm-vw-journal-vw-spareatafonso said:When i said a grain issue, i meant a flaw in the forging process which anyone, even the misinformed, has to agree that happens.
Just because a crank is forged does not mean is unbreakable. I have seen with my own eyes, i am not being a keyboard warrior like many on the forums. Also the 4140 forging is not near as strong as the 4340. CB Performance only offer their engine kits wth the 4140 crank for the low horsepower units, that should tell you something[emoji6]
Abel
Steve did you receive your crank already? Check all the radiuses on the journals, they have to be really smooth and above all, present. Look for any flaws on the forging and if you find any defects or inconsistencies near the journals just send it back. If the above ticks all the boxes, install the crank gears and get the crank, flywheel, pressure plate and pulley all balanced by a reputable company. You should be fine imhoVeeDubMan said:Hmmm, I got mine from Heritage https://www.vwheritage.com/ac105054-ssp-counterweighted-crankshaft-forged-76mm-vw-journal-vw-spareatafonso said:When i said a grain issue, i meant a flaw in the forging process which anyone, even the misinformed, has to agree that happens.
Just because a crank is forged does not mean is unbreakable. I have seen with my own eyes, i am not being a keyboard warrior like many on the forums. Also the 4140 forging is not near as strong as the 4340. CB Performance only offer their engine kits wth the 4140 crank for the low horsepower units, that should tell you something[emoji6]
Abel
Looks to be their own sourced product. Hopefully it'll be ok in my low spec 1955 with twin 34's
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VeeDubMan said:Yep...arrived last week. Will check it out at the weekend. Found an old school machine shop/engine rebuilder relatively close by to me 'Classic and Modern Engine Services in Bracknell (http://cmesuk.com/) who can clearance the case, bore for 90.5, port/polish the heads and get it all balanced etc. so as soon as I've dismantled the original installation, it'll be off to them.
I know I asked you on your YouTube video of your 1955cc, but what stock-weight type of pulley do you normally go for?
I've got a stock clutch too at the moment - that need an upgrade?
90-100 I reckon. It's the torque for getting a fully laden early bay up those Devon hills though I'm looking for [emoji4]megaaircooled said:What sort of HP are you looking at with this combination.
I have been using a good quality stock clutch for normal use with zero issues, but as Karlos said, if you could stretch your budget to a Kennedy stage 1 that would be an upgrade an also extra insurance. The stock pp would be border line with the extra torque and if one day you decide to start dumping the clutch, with the stock it would probably start to slip soon. But as i said, for normal driving i have had zero reported issues.K@rlos said:VeeDubMan said:Yep...arrived last week. Will check it out at the weekend. Found an old school machine shop/engine rebuilder relatively close by to me 'Classic and Modern Engine Services in Bracknell (http://cmesuk.com/) who can clearance the case, bore for 90.5, port/polish the heads and get it all balanced etc. so as soon as I've dismantled the original installation, it'll be off to them.
I know I asked you on your YouTube video of your 1955cc, but what stock-weight type of pulley do you normally go for?
I've got a stock clutch too at the moment - that need an upgrade?
Iād use a Kennedy stage 1 personally. A stock clutch may well get overwhelmed by the extra torque of a stroker
K@rlos said:Iāve seen 1776ās overwhelm a stock clutch and need a stage 1. So Iād strongly advise it with a stroker.
K@rlos said:As for cam for a mild build I really like the Engle w110 with stock rockers on bolt up shafts. Lots of grunt but will rev up a bit if you want it too. But thatās all down to personal driving style etc
Stock springs are to be used only with stock cam or a very very mild cam really close to stock. Anything that will rev more than 4.5k rpmās will need more spring pressure. I use HD singles for up to 6k, from there it must be duals then CB650 or more if revving really high.VeeDubMan said:K@rlos said:As for cam for a mild build I really like the Engle w110 with stock rockers on bolt up shafts. Lots of grunt but will rev up a bit if you want it too. But thatās all down to personal driving style etc
Stock springs or would I need an upgrade on those too to a single HD valve springs?
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