Accelerator Cable Broke (threaded section)

[Whistler]

Hello all,

Yesterday I fitted Butty's Bits throttle linkage, the whole thing including the rod through the chassis section. All fine, however when I tightened up the bolt on the bell crank linkage I must have done it up to right and the threaded section (which isn't used as it was too long) snapped at the bolt. Now, I think it will work but I am trying to find a replacement today as I need to be at the garage tomorrow for 8am so a next day delivery won't help.

It is holding, when I operate the throttle it does work, but I am assuming the bolt is right at the end of the cable so it could just be strands that is holding it on.

I tried Euro car parts but I assume my current cable is older than the chap I spoke to and was no help.

I am in Herne Bay which is North Kent coast. Any one know of a fix or something I can get from Euro, Jayar, GSF etc as I have all of them near me in a driveable distance.

Or, is there no worry for the short term?

 

[Whistler]

I didn't realise, but Cool Air VW are in Ashford which is about 25 minutes from me so I will pop there at lunchtime.

EDIT: They don't have the RHD obviously....they also don't have the cable extender either. I will get a universal one and cut to size.

 

[sparkywig]

With aftermarket twin carb setups and different linkages the stock cable is only just long enough, you need to use the universal cable and cut to length.

 

[Whistler]

With aftermarket twin carb setups and different linkages the stock cable is only just long enough, you need to use the universal cable and cut to length.

Thanks Sparky, I did indeed do that. The guy at Coolair said he would have recommended the universal one over the RHD specific one in any case.
All replaced now thankfully!

 

[sparkywig]

earlybay.com members get discount at CoolAir, did you get any money off?

 

[Whistler]

earlybay.com members get discount at CoolAir, did you get any money off?

No I didn't! Doh! Next time, I am going to get a list together of need/want stuff.

Thank you for the headsup!

 

[shiddot]

Be keen to hear what you think of the Butty’s linkage upgrade!

 

[Whistler]

Be keen to hear what you think of the Butty’s linkage upgrade!

It is brilliant in short.

I got the whole kit, the pedal down to the bar through the chassis and the bar through the chassis to the cable.
I had replaced the pedal down to the bar through the chassis 8/9 years ago when I restored the bus. I don't know where I got it from but it wasn't Butty's parts, unless it has changed a lot since then. In any case, what I received was a lot better than what I had put on before.

The bit through the chassis was a bit of a pain because I couldn't just undo anything, I had to cut it out. Grinder did fit on the pedal side but it didn't fit on the cable side so I used a multi took with a metal blade on it. I also had to use a right angle drill as my normal drill was too big for the new plate on what I believe is the top hat section.

Over all, if I did it again, I reckon within an hour it would all be done. And it is so much nicer on the pedal now, I had a lot of play, particularly on the rod through the chassis. I am very glad I replaced it all. Top bit of kit.

 

[matty74]

I did the same the other month when I changed to twin ICT’s and CSP Bellcrank. I’d had the earlier version of the linkage on since 2016, but decided to replace as above and along with fitting a new pedal, pivot bracket and spring it had transformed the pedal feel, completely removing any slop from the linkage. Previously if I was driving long distances my leg started aching after a while, now I’m only feathering the pedal when cruising so it doesn’t. I recouped some of the cost by selling the original Buttys bits kit on eBay

 

[Whistler]

I did the same the other month when I changed to twin ICT’s and CSP Bellcrank. I’d had the earlier version of the linkage on since 2016, but decided to replace as above and along with fitting a new pedal, pivot bracket and spring it had transformed the pedal feel, completely removing any slop from the linkage. Previously if I was driving long distances my leg started aching after a while, now I’m only feathering the pedal when cruising so it doesn’t. I recouped some of the cost by selling the original Buttys bits kit on eBay

Where did you go for the pedal spring Matty? Just the usual places? I am almost certain I would have put a new one on years ago. Mine Revs higher than it should do as the pedal isn't returning all the way up. I didn't get a chance to see if it was fouling on my mat or not. I thought originally I just pulled the cable on the bellcrank to much and it needs slackening off a couple of mm. She is at a garage now and I mentioned it to them so if loosening the cable a tad would work happy to go with it. But I also feel like I should have a pedal that returns all the way.

Glad to see someone else enjoying the new feel!

 

[shiddot]

Thank you for the feedback, sounds like a great bit of kit and something I’ve had my eye on for a while. Pretty sure mines gonna need some welding under the pedal soon, so will upgrade then.

 

[matty74]

I bought this kit off eBay. I also added the Bellcrank return spring to my order from CSP (i think limebug have them too). I have found that this helps return crank to idle position allowing the cable to have a little bit of slack as recommended. I adjusted the Buttys bits rods too, to give a nice pedal travel. It’s night and day compared to how it was

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/23490955...jyx1vbkQnq&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

 

[Whistler]

Thank you for the feedback, sounds like a great bit of kit and something I’ve had my eye on for a while. Pretty sure mines gonna need some welding under the pedal soon, so will upgrade then.

Do, it is one of them should haves in my opinion. The kit only needs 6 holes drilled, no welding required so it is really easy to DIY. If you do have anything done, or not, very much recommended. Instructions on his site are great as well. Also got a couple of stickers and a keyring!

 

[Whistler]

I bought this kit off eBay. I also added the Bellcrank return spring to my order from CSP (i think limebug have them too). I have found that this helps return crank to idle position allowing the cable to have a little bit of slack as recommended. I adjusted the Buttys bits rods too, to give a nice pedal travel. It’s night and day compared to how it was

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/23490955...jyx1vbkQnq&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

I think I need to double check my bellcrank setup as I am not sure it is how it should be. It works obviously. In the 8 or so years since I last looked the engine I am a lot more thoughtful and methodical with things.

I did forget to say that I haven't adjusted the rods in the kit at all which I think would help loads.

I will get a new pedal spring as well just to be sure.

 

[Moseley]

Set the correct tension on the cable by holding the carb fully open, then pull the cable tight at the carb end (so that your accelerator pedal is pulled flat to the floor) and then nip up the clamping bolt. This ensures you’re never over-extending the cable, but also that you’re getting a fully open carb when you put your foot down!

 

[Whistler]

Set the correct tension on the cable by holding the carb fully open, then pull the cable tight at the carb end (so that your accelerator pedal is pulled flat to the floor) and then nip up the clamping bolt. This ensures you’re never over-extending the cable, but also that you’re getting a fully open carb when you put your foot down!

Sounds great advice!
Will remember that one thank you.

 

[Stuartk]

Hey guys I've used the full butty throttle linkage for years now and it is brilliant!!
Nothing more to say other than you really should get one .

 

[G_B_H]

Be keen to hear what you think of the Butty’s linkage upgrade!

I’ve fitted one, well worth the investment

One point, when fitted I was out testing the mechanism and put my foot to the floor to test full range and my twin carbs went past point where spring return would close as I eased off accelerator. Quick fix though with a slight adjustment.

 

[matty74]

Another +1 for Butty’s full linkage (includes long stainless rod and bushing through chassis)

I also redid the accelerator pedal, pedal hinge, pedal spring, accelerator cable and under chassis return spring to remove as much slop from the system as possible.

You could say it’s a bit like triggers broom

The end result was well worth the effort and outlay