advise on engine stud please!

[aspira]

Whilst removing the gland nut to change the oil seal I bent then subsequently sheared off one of the engine studs. I carefully drilled it out, starting small, then up to 8.5mm and re-tapped. Thought I had cracked-it but turns out the stud screws in but won't tighten. The hole is too big. I tried wrapping some PTFE tape around it but no good.

I can't get the engine to a machine shop, anyone got any ideas what I can do?

Many thanks

 

[Bigbear]

Locktite? Araldite? Liquid metal?

 

[aspira]

I thought about that but not sure if it would hold. I guess it doesn't have to be torqued up very tightly

 

[Bigbear]

I thought about that but not sure if it would hold. I guess it doesn't have to be torqued up very tightly

I take it you mean one of the studs that connects the engine and gearbox?

 

[aspira]

That's correct. Is a helical an option do you think?

 

[Bigbear]

That's correct. Is a helical an option do you think?

Well I managed to bend one when trying to remove the gland nut, I removed the stud and replaced it with a new one, the new one was fairly loose aswell so I just set it in with Locktite, . It's still there now and hasn't caused a problem,

 

[aspira]

Yes, mines very loose. Hardly grips at all but since its a blind hole you would think that liquid metal or lock tight would hold it. I'm off on a big trip to Spain next week (3000 miles) so its a bit worrying

 

[Bigbear]

Yes, mines very loose. Hardly grips at all but since its a blind hole you would think that liquid metal or lock tight would hold it. I'm off on a big trip to Spain next week (3000 miles) so its a bit worrying

It'll be fine, don't worry about it. Even if it comes loose you've still got three more holding the engine and box together.

Pug it up with locktite or liquid metal and move on to the next job.

Enjoy your trip 8)

 

[Robert Parry]

There is only one way to do anything when working on a mechanical component and that is the right way. Get the thread repared properly. As for running it on 3 studs. Do you want a cracked case? There are 4 for a reason. A 10mm Helicoil set is cheap but get someone who knows what to do to fit it. Robert

 

[Bigbear]

Of course, Robert is right always try to do it right way, if you've got time on your side then get it done properly, if not (you say you go away next week?) then I see no reason why liquid metal wouldn't do the job until you have time to put it right at a later date. I've used the stuff on hydraulic pumps and clutches on my drilling rig when the right spare wasn't at hand and it's never failed, my rig pulls 3ton on the winch and 9t on the snatch block and runs for 10-12hrs a day, so I can't see that a 1600cc engine will put it through more strain?

As for running with three studs, I wouldn't advise this neither (hence I replaced mine) although I would advise using locktite when fitting the new stud even if you do re thread it.

Good luck.

 

[subheatadey]

Check out 'timeserts' fooking fantastic!

 

[animal]

I had to helicoil both bottom studs recently as they had pulled out if the case causing the case and gearbox to separate when clutch activated (severe judder in reverse).

Bought this kit for less than a tenner and massive improvement, good quality and didn't waste money on lots of sizes I'mnot going to use. - hardest bit is making sure you drill straight - but a tap with a mallet and piece of wood soon straightened things up

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/141261706044?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Cheers

 

[mr fish]

I fixed one with an m10-m14 case saver.