Right, I've just rebuilt the bottom end using new crankshaft bearings and have checked the endfloat which appears to be good, but there's sideways play at the pulley end. This isn't something I've come across before and I'm not sure if I should crack on with the rebuild or look for a mistake/fault. This is my first build so any advice will be greatly received.
Crankshaft, not endfloat but play sideways!
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Trikky2
Well-known member
First remove the fan pulley (to eliminate any play from it)
If you still have sideways play in the crankshaft without the pulley then there's aroblem and you will have to dismantle.
The case may have been line bored in the past meaning you need bearings with a larger outer diameter and /or the crankshaft may have been re ground meaning you need bearings with a smaller inner diameter.
If you still have sideways play in the crankshaft without the pulley then there's aroblem and you will have to dismantle.
The case may have been line bored in the past meaning you need bearings with a larger outer diameter and /or the crankshaft may have been re ground meaning you need bearings with a smaller inner diameter.
dustrat
Well-known member
From what discribe it sounds as if your crankshaft has been reground and you have fitted std bearings. If the case had been line bored the thrust would have been cut as well and you would have found that the thrust bearing had lateral movement in case. If you still have old bearings check center case bearing,ie the one in two halves, and it should have stamped on the size of bearing ,like wise the conrod/big end bearings.If you have dicarded the old bearings Heritage/Machine7 or any of other suppliers can supply a couple of guages for measuring case and crankshaft.I'm afraid it's a strip down and start all over again with correct bearings !
Robert
Robert
Cheers lads. I've had a look through fresh eyes this morning and found movement in the casing and the crankshaft. I fitted standard bearings as the ones that came out were also standard, and at the time didn't appear to have much movement. Before taking the engine out I checked the endfloat by the usual push/pull method which appeared to be good. The van went well but there was always a bit of vibration which I took as being loose tinware or something. Oh well, back to the drawing board. I might look into getting someone to build the short block up for me as I've already spent too much money collecting bits for it to justify buy an exchange engine...as much as I'd like to!
Just a little point if you end up having to get larger bearings. The dowels that hold the bearing outers in the case may need to be cut down. We had the misadventure of not taking that into consideration. The case was line bored and the crank replaced. We put the larger diameter bearings in along with the original metal dowels. When we bolted everything together the engine wouldn't turn over by hand? The dowels had squashed through the bearings.
RePhil
Well-known member
I sent my block & crankshaft to The Engine Shop (TES). They line bored the block, ground the crankshaft & supplied all bearings to suit.
New bearings are specific to the case overbore, case thrust face cut (for end float) & crankshaft regrind.
Turntime & delivery charges were very good.
I recommend.
Phil.
New bearings are specific to the case overbore, case thrust face cut (for end float) & crankshaft regrind.
Turntime & delivery charges were very good.
I recommend.
Phil.
