Earlybay with 6 rib and 2L type4.. can't shift all gears

[kleinbusRonnie]

Hello Guys

So i finally had my upright converted 2L type4 with 113 hp installed in my 68 westy.
I also installled a 6 rib gearbox.
I only had to change the nose cone to the og one.
(sounds easy..well it's been many hours..especially cooling tin fixing)

Actually i installed a 6 rib twice, as my first 6 rib had an syncromesh problem.

But i have the same problem for both gearboxes, (which i didn't have on my old trusty 3 rib)
I can't shift into first gear, unless i press the gearstick forwards and hold it tight, and third gear is only possible to get into if i use a short shifter gearstick like the CSP type.

Second and fourth gears are easy to get into.

I have tried to move the selector base around, right now it is at the most forward.

I have taken a picture of the 'thing' that connects with the gearshift, does it look at right position..(neutral gear) ??



Does any of you had similar problems with 6 rib boxes in earlybay.






Thanks
Ronnie
CPH
DK

 

[Trikky2]

If your having trouble selecting first and third then having the gearstick plate set forwards will make it worse.

On the photo, assuming you took it vertically, it does look a little bit far back for neutral - but its hard to be sure.

Check you have correctly located the grub screw (the square headed one with lock wire) in the dimple of the selector shaft.

When you are sure the selector mechanism is correct you could loosen the engine and gearbox mounts and see if you can ease the engine and gearbox a bit further forward (there is a little bit of leeway/adjustment possible).

If all else fails don't despair. It's possible to drill a new dimple for the grub screw a bit further up the shaft.

 

[kleinbusRonnie]

Thanks Trikky for yours answer.

You gave me one good idea, as i haven't thought about moving the hole lot a bit forward.

On thesamba i saw a guy using the trick of moving only the last bit of the long shaft.

i'm sure it is impossible to adjust the gearshift properly unless i center the thing a bit more.

It gives sense as i can shift into first, but only if i press the gearstick forward, there is simply not enough space to shift into first and third gear.

I'll give it a go.

Does anyone have questions about how to fit a CU engine in an earlybay..just ask.

R.

 

[kleinbusRonnie]

Quick update..five years later.

I did move the hole locomotive so the gearshift is now perfect.
The engine has worked well over the years.
You can actually cruise through Europe with a constants speed of 110-120 km/h with that setup.
The engine will now go into next level: smaller carburetors from 45 to 40 dells and probably a CSP Python exhaust system (to suit the webcam 160 284 degrees camshaft better).
Over and out
R.

 

[cunning plan]

Quick update..five years later.

I did move the hole locomotive so the gearshift is now perfect.
The engine has worked well over the years.
You can actually cruise through Europe with a constants speed of 110-120 km/h with that setup.
The engine will now go into next level: smaller carburetors from 45 to 40 dells and probably a CSP Python exhaust system (to suit the webcam 160 284 degrees camshaft better).
Over and out
R.

Nice update. 8)

The engine will now go into next level: smaller carburetors from 45 to 40 dells.

What is the reason for this? MPG? Everyone usually wants bigger. :lol:

 

[atafonso]

Quick update..five years later.

I did move the hole locomotive so the gearshift is now perfect.
The engine has worked well over the years.
You can actually cruise through Europe with a constants speed of 110-120 km/h with that setup.
The engine will now go into next level: smaller carburetors from 45 to 40 dells and probably a CSP Python exhaust system (to suit the webcam 160 284 degrees camshaft better).
Over and out
R.

Nice update. 8)

The engine will now go into next level: smaller carburetors from 45 to 40 dells.

What is the reason for this? MPG? Everyone usually wants bigger. :lol:

It will be much more driveable at lower rpm’s and also still flow enough for the size of engine and cam. The whole combo has to be matched in order to get the best results; heads, cam, carbs, intake and exhaust

Abel

 

[cunning plan]

Quick update..five years later.

I did move the hole locomotive so the gearshift is now perfect.
The engine has worked well over the years.
You can actually cruise through Europe with a constants speed of 110-120 km/h with that setup.
The engine will now go into next level: smaller carburetors from 45 to 40 dells and probably a CSP Python exhaust system (to suit the webcam 160 284 degrees camshaft better).
Over and out
R.

Nice update. 8)

The engine will now go into next level: smaller carburetors from 45 to 40 dells.

What is the reason for this? MPG? Everyone usually wants bigger. :lol:

It will be much more driveable at lower rpm’s and also still flow enough for the size of engine and cam. The whole combo has to be matched in order to get the best results; heads, cam, carbs, intake and exhaust

Abel

Will it just be too erratic at low speeds, juddery etc, with the 45's then? :?:

 

[K@rlos]

Not juddery but a bit flat incomparasion. It’s all to do with port velocity. Big carbs, heavily ported manifolds and big valves etc are more suited to high rpm and will make serious power but move the power band further up the Rev range. More conservative sizing will give better bottom end torque and throttle response at low revs.

 

[atafonso]

Not juddery but a bit flat incomparasion. It’s all to do with port velocity. Big carbs, heavily ported manifolds and big valves etc are more suited to high rpm and will make serious power but move the power band further up the Rev range. More conservative sizing will give better bottom end torque and throttle response at low revs.

Spot on
Not that the 45's will never work well at low rpm's, if you have a big engine there will be more port velocity and they will work much better than on a 1776 for example. But what will really dictate if they will work ok or not is the the diameter of the venturis compared to the valve sizes. Normally on a race ish engine the best venturi sizes are 3-5mm smaller than intake valves, whereas on a daily driver i would say about 5-8mm smaller. The latter will make the car much more driveable at lower revs at the cost of some horses up top.

Abel

 

[K@rlos]

1 dabbles... :mrgreen: