Engine bay oil leak

[Howie58]

Lost oil pressure on a steep short climb. All the oil leaked and I found a lot of it in the engine bay. Any ideas where to look first?
I was going to try the o ring on the distributor first.

 

[sparkywig]

Oil cooler

 

[Howie58]

Engine out

 

[sparkywig]

Engine out

Yep

 

[Howie58]

Thanks for your help I’ll keep you posted

 

[la_bigmac]

I experienced something similar on my previous engine, turned out the oil cooler had worked loose, simple fix once the engine was out...

 

[Howie58]

Ok engine out. The oil cooler area seemed pretty dry not much oil. But I noticed a wire had broken off on the oil pressure switch. Would that cause it to dump all the oil?

 

[sparkywig]

No

 

[Howie58]

Ok starting work tomorrow

 

[Howie58]

Just to check is a crank shaft main seal the same as a flywheel oil seal? Every time I searched for the flywheel seal on JK it came up with crank shaft oil seal main rear ?

 

[67panel]

Yes that is the only crank seal as front has a thrower plate.

 

[Mechanoid]

Ok engine out. The oil cooler area seemed pretty dry not much oil. But I noticed a wire had broken off on the oil pressure switch. Would that cause it to dump all the oil?

Not the wire but the switch itself can leak around the where the plastic meets the metal part. The other thing to check in that area is the case where the pressure switch screws into. This can split if the switch is screwed in too much because of the tapered thread. As this is on the main oil gallery it can hose out quite quickly if it is bad.

 

[sparkywig]

If the oil pressure switch is overtightened it can cause the case to split and leak oil. It's hard to trace this leak unless you have someone watching the engine as you rev it.
In the worst case it can crack the case half all the way round to the bottom, making the case scrap.



I've learnt this the hard way.

 

[K@rlos]

If the oil pressure switch is overtightened it can cause the case to split and leak oil. It's hard to trace this leak unless you have someone watching the engine as you rev it.
In the worst case it can crack the case half all the way round to the bottom, making the case scrap.



I've learnt this the hard way.

What did you do it up with a 1/2” impact gun ? Lol

 

[sparkywig]

What did you do it up with a 1/2” impact gun ? Lol

No, I think it was overtightened during the original build and the many thousands of heat cycles just stressed the case and it split.

 

[K@rlos]

No, I think it was overtightened during the original build and the many thousands of heat cycles just stressed the case and it split.

Yeah that would do it, I only give them the tiniest nip up. If it leaks I nip it a fraction more.

Very poor design, even the aluminium race case my 2276 is built in has fuck all material round that area.

 

[Howie58]

Ok engine out I’ve replaced the oil cooler seals and I’m going to replace the flywheel seal as that looks to be the seal that went. Trouble is I can’t budge the locking nut. I’ve already broken my breaker bar any suggestions?

 

[Coda]

Ok engine out I’ve replaced the oil cooler seals and I’m going to replace the flywheel seal as that looks to be the seal that went. Trouble is I can’t budge the locking nut. I’ve already broken my breaker bar any suggestions?

Impact gun. If you don't have one you can get a cheap electric one from Machine Mart that will push several hundred lb/ft.

 

[Mechanoid]

Ok engine out I’ve replaced the oil cooler seals and I’m going to replace the flywheel seal as that looks to be the seal that went. Trouble is I can’t budge the locking nut. I’ve already broken my breaker bar any suggestions?

I use a 3/4" drive breaker bar and 36mm socket. I also have a 3/4" drive torque wrench to do it back up. IF you are going to use the original gland nut for the flywheel, mark the flywheel and gland nut so you can tighten it to the same position. This will save you having to use a torque wrench to get somewhere near the correct tightening torque. Also, don't forget to grease the bearing inside the gland nut before fitting the back to the gearbox.