Engine out virgin.....

[Commercial Phil]

Just started stripping down the back of my van do remove the engine :?

Got to sort out release bearing noise as i think it's shifted due to catching the floor now the vans lower :roll:

It's a 70 and i've removed the bumper and rear engine valance bit... The guide to keeping your aircooled alive book then say's to undo the four bolts on the support brace (just after the exshaust). i seem to have about six bolts in total 4 in the centre.

Was going to support the engine with a block of wood and jack on the sump plug area but would i be better off draining the oil and then removing the brace? Book says to drain oil after removing brace but can't see a sensible place to support the engine :?

Any hints or tips guess it's easy once you've popped your cherry Don't fancy getting it wrong

Cheers

Phil

 

[angus]

Not quite sure what you mean by 'brace' and where all those bolts are, but you may find some of the pictures http://www.mystuffonline.co.uk/3.html usefull.
I am sure people have different methods, and tips and tricks. I remove my rear valance, pop a trolley jack under the sump plug (use a nice flat piece of wood to spread the load off any sharp metal jack plates)
Disconnect the various wires - off the top of my head: alternator/dynamo, coil, wires to carb, oil pressure switch etc etc. Disconnect accelerator cable.
Assuming you are leaving the gearbox behind PUT SOMETHING UNDER IT TO SUPPORT IT! (I forgot )
Disconnect any heater cables to the heat exchangers - another thing I forgot (in fact, I may be the wrong person to ask!!) and its a bugger to slide the engine back in and then disconnect them!
Take the weight of the engine (ie: trolley jack just touching) and undo the 4 nuts/bolts that hold the engine to gearbox. An engine hatch in the boot floor makes this so much easier, but I can reach round the back of the fan ok. Access from underneath aswell. Make sure gearbox is supported!
Undo engine mounts at the back of the bus - not sure which is bestto undo - top or bottom of mount (ie: does the rubber mount stay on the engine, or the bus?)
Gently take the weight of the engine, and ideally with a helper, give a tug on the engine/trolley jack, and slide the engine off the gearbox shaft. Two people make it easier to steady the engine from side to side rocking, but depends on the trolley jack.

Before you do all this, it helps if the trolley jack is on a nice smooth surface, so if the drive is rough, pop a piece of hardboard down, or similar.

I'm sure I've missed out loads, but thats the basics. I think I'll take some pictures of the process for our website actually.

 

[Commercial Phil]

Not quite sure what you mean by 'brace' and where all those bolts are, but you may find some of the pictures http://www.mystuffonline.co.uk/3.html usefull.

http://www.mystuffonline.co.uk/3.html
Picture 23

The beam that sits on 2 engine mounts...thats the bugger. Just undo the ends then after bracing the engine. Good point abount the type of drive as well! will put some board under the jack

Assuming you are leaving the gearbox behind PUT SOMETHING UNDER IT TO SUPPORT IT! (I forgot )

already been warned on that!

 

[angus]

Yep - thats the beam - leave it on the engine (good to hold onto as you pull it out etc) - I'd leave the mounts attached to the beam so that they come out with the engine....

Oh yes - and don't remove the exhaust like I did, with an angle grinder :wink:

Good luck!

 

[Tofufi]

Just started stripping down the back of my van do remove the engine :?

Got to sort out release bearing noise as i think it's shifted due to catching the floor now the vans lower :roll:

It's a 70 and i've removed the bumper and rear engine valance bit... The guide to keeping your aircooled alive book then say's to undo the four bolts on the support brace (just after the exshaust). i seem to have about six bolts in total 4 in the centre.

Was going to support the engine with a block of wood and jack on the sump plug area but would i be better off draining the oil and then removing the brace? Book says to drain oil after removing brace but can't see a sensible place to support the engine :?

Any hints or tips guess it's easy once you've popped your cherry Don't fancy getting it wrong

Cheers

Phil

I only removed the two bolts which go up from underneath, leaving the rubber mounts on the engine brace, still attached to the engine. Then there are 4 bolts holding the engine to the gearbox. The one by the clutch cable is a bitch to get to. Good luck.

 

[chippi]

Check out the "bible" as i call it
http://www.ratwell.com/technical/EngineRemoval.html

 

[Guest]

Check out the "bible" as i call it
http://www.ratwell.com/technical/EngineRemoval.html

bookmarked!

nice description and although a later type4 engine (?) still very useful

 

[Commercial Phil]

Can't get the nut behind the fan undone.... bolt thread it's on seems to spin Any tips?


Other ones are well tight have to have more weetabix. Bottom nuts are obvious and the other one is just in the clutch cable area to the left? Correct yeah? :?:

Also what's your technique with the fuel line? covered myself trying to wedge the pencil in! :roll:

 

[angus]

One of the bolts behind the fan is also holding the starter motor on - that bolt should have a different shaped head - round with a flat on it that shouldn't turn as it locates onto the starter motor casting - if you have managed to undo it a little, it could be pushing back (towards the front of the van) and could then turn - so you need to either try and push it back by getting something behind it, or sort of 'lever' the nut (and bolt) towards you with a screwdriver or something, as you turn the nut - does that make any sense?!

 

[angus]

Give everything a good soaking in Plusgas or other release agent (better than WD40)

 

[angus]

Ok - just done a few pics for you which may help - I'm just about to upload them on my 68 bay thread, but they may help with showing what is up and under the bus!!

First one shows where the bolts are (obviously one is hidden)

And this is that half round bolt I was talking about, on the starter....

 

[Commercial Phil]

So it should kinda be spinning? Nut was nearly at the end. My keeping your aircooled alive book say's to pull back on the engine against it

Engines on a trolley jack and the gear box is on some blocks and wood

Really wasn't 100% so wasn't feeling to confident

Any tips on the fuel line?

Cheers for the pics! I'm on the right lines just need to go for it and undo the buggers and stop worrying!

 

[Commercial Phil]

That bugger by there!

 

[angus]

Yep - thats the one. It will spin, but obviously you need to stop it doing so! Certainly if you have undone the others, you could pull the engine back on it to stop it spinning (by locating the bolt correctly, if you see what I mean!)You are certainly on the right lines though, yes! Just be careful when the engine does suddenly break free - it will wobble on the jack (unless you have a nice wide platform below it. Thats the point when you will discover you left some minor wire connected that will stop it dropping :shock: :mrgreen: - pull it nice and clear from the input shaft and lower gentle.

As for the fuel line - I used your method, with a pencil that fitted :mrgreen: - you could clamp with some mole grips, but be careful you don't damage the fuel line. I found an allen key also fits. Don't smoke.....

 

[Commercial Phil]

Given up the **** thank god!
Did the old thumb over the end hose like trick while trying to *** body work,hand body work with pencil :roll: before finally moving thumb spraying myself in the face with fuel :shock: .....managed to stem the flow slightly while Sam my understanding girlfriend helped me stagger blindly up the drive to the outside tap to wash half of the petrol tank off my face :roll: one word TIT


Started on that nut so couldn't help myself! Engines simple to take out when you know how/2nd time round.... Throttle cable outer need to be removed as well before i forget

Cheers for the help Angus if your in a show some time i owe you a few beverages

 

[angus]

No worries mate - we've all been there! I hadn't done it for a while, so when I did a few months ago I managed to drop the engine, leave the heater cables attached and scratch everything!!

I popped mine back in again today - just about to update thread. Started first time - I had taken the gearbox out aswell, and it was a joy to join everything outside the van and then just slot it into place. You have the joy of lining everything back up again and sliding it back in to come..... 8)

 

[Commercial Phil]

Engines out

Trust bearing was shagged seems to have eaten itself :shock:

PROBLEM

Arm holding the trust brearing to the clutch arm, You have to push it towards the gearbox housing for it to line up...

press the clutch lever to operate it a few times and it goes to one side and explains why the thrust bearing was buggered

Anyone had a similar problem? Looked at the cool air catalogue and the arm is listed as a crossover part and the garage changed it over as the old one was buggered... wrong one perhaps?

 

[angus]

Well done with the engine out! Not so bad was it!
Can't help you with the other stuff!!!

 

[Commercial Phil]

Easy when you know how :roll: Cheers for the help!

Pain getting engine out as drives on a slight slope took a bit of a tug and a jimmy...

Also couldn't find the bolt by the clutch arm for ages, mate popped round to add some muscle and noticed that it was missing hence i couldn't find it. :shock:

So my engines unplug wires prop up gearbox and undo 3 bolts

 

[VWAIRCOOLED]

Something is up with your clutch operating arm for sure,first the arm should go into the box and then a brass bush should be tapped in to hold it in place which is a fairly tight fit in the hole.This should stop it from moving in and out.Without seeing the damage closely it looks like you need a clutch operating arm repair kit at least to sort the problem then fit it all in properly.

Also regarding that missing bell housing bolt,they're usually missing because the captive nut on the engine is missing.There should be a threaded insert on the engine case where the bolt screws into.It's very difficult to fit a bolt in there with this missing as you can't quite get round to put a nut on with the engine in.Make sure you have a captive nut fitted before the engine goes back in.Or do what I did and glue a normal nut to the engine case first.