Engine size question and leisure battery

[Aardvark]

Hi guys.
I already done an introduction post, but now need some tech advice. So this is my first couple of questions.
Firstly, the engine in our new (1972) camper is in the log book as a 1500cc the previous owner advertised it as such so not a problem. It runs really well and has done over 800 miles in its first week of ownership after a good service. It sits very happily between 50 &60 mph. But everything I've read said that the 1500 wasn't fitted to the T2. It is a post 1970 engine as it has the 2 oil pressure valves on the bottom. Engine number is B538837.
Any ideas what engine I have to make getting spares easier?
Secondly, there is a leisure battery fitted. This is charged with a ctek charger from the hook up. Weird thing is that the leisure battery appears to power the cig lighter socket, the radio, the fridge and the interior light. I would have thought that the fag lighter and radio would have come from the engine battery. Also I need to connect it to the dynamo to charge it when driving. It's mostly big distances we do so it would have enough time to trickle hopefully. Any advice?
I have other questions but dont want to overload this post.
Cheers. Andy.

 

[gas1man]

Can't help with the first but, the second , depending on the CTek charger it is possible that
it charges it automatically, I have a fairly large CTek set up and it does everything automatically.
Google CTek chargers they explain what each one does. Mine is a MXS10 .Might help.

J & P

 

[Aardvark]

Cheers for that. I'm pretty clued up on the ctek charger as I have one on my fiat camper. But I'm a bit worried about hooking up the dynamo.
Andy.

 

[lil_azza]

Firstly I expect its a 1600 barrels are alot more available than 1500 parts
Isit a twinport or single?

 

[Aardvark]

Sorry for being thick. But if you mean carbs, it's just a single. Still learning but every day is an education.

 

[lil_azza]

Ok no look at your intake manifold
Is it 1 piece or 3 piece?

 

[Aardvark]

Will check when I get home tonight

 

[sparkywig]

Single port manifolds are one piece

Twin port manifolds are 3 piece.

 

[Aardvark]

Ah ha! Now I see. Our one is definitely a single port.
Andy

 

[sparkywig]

If it runs well, leave it alone and don't worry about it.

 

[Aardvark]

I quite agree that there's no point in mucking about with it. But I do want to order parts for it so would like to take the guesswork out of it.
I want to renew the pushrod tubes and seals and probably head gaskets while I'm at it. I could measure bore & stroke while I'm in but I like to be prepared.
The other thing is getting the ignition timing correct. I did it with a strobe and it wasn't right, so ended up doing it by ear which I think is pretty close. I'm a bit of a perfectionist though.
Andy.

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[sparkywig]

Your engine code starts with B5, so it's a 08/67 - 07/70 1600cc dual relief, single port, 47bhp, USA only engine.

If the pushrod tubes aren't leaking, leave them alone.
VW air-cooled engines don't have head gaskets, so I presume you mean rocker cover gaskets.
The only way to measure the bore and stroke is to remove the heads, but as you said it's running well why bother.
The timing really needs to be done with a timing light, no more than 32 degrees of advance at 3000rpm. Don't be too concerned about timing at idle.

 

[Aardvark]

That is awesome information. Thanks for that. Could I ask if you have any other info on that engine or anywhere I could get? I wonder why it was registered as a 1500 and how did an American engine find it's way into the van. Runs well, but intrigued.
There is a leak from 3 & 4 cylinder pushrod tubes btw.

 

[sparkywig]

That's about it info wise, unfortunately.
It either came out of an imported bus, or was in a parts haul.
1500's were never fitted in bay window buses, so probably wrongly registered.

I ran a 1600 single port engine for years without issue, and used to tow a Rapido. The only things I changed were the single carb for a pair of 34 ICTs and the exhaust to a Vintage Speed.

 

[Aardvark]

Runs well apart from oil leak, so will leave it stock. Got more important things to buy.
Previous owner used to pull an Eriba caravan with the van. Its fast enough for our needs as it cruises nicely to get to our camping spot.
Really happy with it. Thanks again for confirming the engine.
Andy.

 

[StefansBus]

Your engine code starts with B5, so it's a 08/67 - 07/70 1600cc dual relief, single port, 47bhp, USA only engine.

The timing really needs to be done with a timing light, no more than 32 degrees of advance at 3000rpm. Don't be too concerned about timing at idle.

The first sentence is correct. The second one possibly misleading. The "B" engine (1600 single port) has a "vacuum advance only" distributor. There is no mechanical/centrifugal advance. Follow the manual when setting timing. If the distributor is no longer the stock distributor then the numbers from the manual may not work. The stock distributor works best with the stock carb, a Solex 30 PICT 2. Do you have that? You can also tell us the numbers on the distributor and we can check for you. We can then help you with the correct ignition timing. Another challenge when setting timing is that frequently the pulley with the timing marks is no longer stock and the marks are not correct or relevant. Again, a picture will help us help you.

 

[Aardvark]

Thanks very much for that. My engine does have a vacuum advance on the distributor. It also has a very new looking Solex H30/31 PICT carb.
Hopefully I can attach a couple of photos. As always, help and advice most welcome.
Andy

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[StefansBus]

Can't tel what distributor you have from that picture. I don't think it's the correct one, as that should have a larger vacuum can. Is it a Bosch? If so it should have a Bosch number and possibly a VW number on the side, not on the vacuum canister. Does it also have a centrifugal (mechanical) advance? You can tell when you take the cap off and try to move the rotor left and right. If it doesn't have mechanical advance it won't move. If it does it will move in one direction. I'm talking significant movement of a few degrees, not just a mm or so. The stock distributor is vacuum advance only.

Your carb is not a stock carb. It is a universal reproduction Solex carb. It has a weaker vacuum signal than the PICT 34 (which is the standard carb for the 1600 twin port or dual port engine, which you don't have) but for which most SVDA (single vacuum, dual advance), including the aftermarket ones are made. So the 30/31 does not work that great with most distributors. It does work ok, with the stock B-engine distributor, though.

Ideally you would have the correct carb and dizzy. But if it works good and you don' have too much total advance then you can keep it the way it is.

 

[Aardvark]

Thanks for that. I've had a look at the distributor. There is a VW and Audi logo stamped on it. Plus the Bosch symbol. The only number I can see is 050.
I took the cap off and the rotor moves about 5 or 6mm in a clockwise direction. Is this significant?
Is there anything wrong with the carb / distributor combo I have? I might have picked it up wrongly as you said that the carb wasn't suited to a dual port. But mine is a single.
Without anything to compere it against, I have to trust it's ok. As I go through various parts of the van, it becomes obvious that in the preceding 47 years there have been quite a few bodges carried out. But I kind of expected that. I'm sure that with a bit of tender care it will be around for many more years.
Andy.

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[ozziedog]

One of the things that is extremely significant is that as you say this vehicle has been around for a half a century. During this period of time, this vehicle will have been run in lots of different situations with lots of different peeps driving and working on this beasty, and lots of get you home type fixes and lots of get you going type fixes and lots of what the hell is available to get this back on the road. Some of these will just have been to get it sold or get him home etc etc. A heck of a lot of these temporary repairs just stay as they are until they break again. During all of this, the vehicle has been worth a fair bit of money from zero to three years old, then not that much up to ten years old, then hardly anything for a long time and now they’re worth a lot more than when new . During the hardly anything period is when lots of temporary repairs seem to appear plus during that period, getting parts might have been a bit more difficult at your local high street motor factors style places where most have a go mechanics would shop. It’s a testament to their original integrity and design that they’re still here at all. :mrgreen:

Ozziedog,,,,,,,,,,, diverse maintenance I’ll call it :mrgreen: