Fixed or adjustable on rears

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Haveacamper

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ok, so lowering the rear end. i was originially just going to lower by a spline or 2 with original spring plates. but this will change the ride quality and travel. So what about new, dropped or adjustable spring plates????

i'm not too sure how low i want to go - partially depends on practicality and look with the wheels, so was thinking of the adjustable plates from Creative-engineering. i know a few people have bought these, like ant and faux??, just wondered whether its all worth it and what people opinions are - as long as you are not a purist :)

NaFe
 
Haveacamper said:
ok, so lowering the rear end. i was originially just going to lower by a spline or 2 with original spring plates. but this will change the ride quality and travel

NaFe
Dropped mine two splines at the back, no difference in ride quality whatsoever. Of course there is less travel, but no clearance probs. Have notched the original spring plates, all is fine. Who told you it would be a problem? From my experience they would be talking out of their hat (so to speak!) Adjustable plates make fine tuning easier when getting it all level or if you need to adjust when towing, otherwise why pay out? Just my view, others may well differ...
 
Mine was slammed at the back, ride was OK after I moved the spring plates back up to a two splines drop and off the stops. Tyres rub on the arches though :lol:
Front suspension is harder and bouncy with adjusters only, and steering is heavier.
 
adjustable springplates scare the bejeezus out of me :shock:

i've never heard of a set failing in my vw 'memory' but just like welded bay spindles i look at them and that little welded 'bump stop' taking all that weight and 40 years' experience 'fiddling' with things is just screaming "noooooo" in my head :(

that aside, i don't really see the point of them... yes you can level them from side to side or make minute adjustments but then it's not exactly difficult doing that with 'normal' springplates... just a bit time consuming :roll:
 
the councillor said:
adjustable springplates scare the bejeezus out of me :shock:

i've never heard of a set failing in my vw 'memory' but just like welded bay spindles i look at them and that little welded 'bump stop' taking all that weight and 40 years' experience 'fiddling' with things is just screaming "noooooo" in my head :(

that aside, i don't really see the point of them... yes you can level them from side to side or make minute adjustments but then it's not exactly difficult doing that with 'normal' springplates... just a bit time consuming :roll:

I have seen a pair crack on the weld before, along time ago, but they didn't give way. As far as I can see from mine they are pretty strong as they are welded from the rear too.

I also feel that the consequences of an adjustable springplate collapse are pretty insignificant due to the way they are made. If you go as low as I have on the back, without cutting the Chassis etc, then if the welded block went then it would sag by 10mm and rest on the bumpstop. :lol: (Unlike the front end :? )

However if you over notch an original springplate and it snaps it would be a different story.....not as bad as on a swing axle though. :?

The reasons I have used the adjustable springplates are:
Fine and very easy adjustability (5 minutes from stock to max drop)
Ease of removing the rear wheels (due to the nature of the adjustable plates they allow much more room than standards.....I know I tried.) But if you put shorter shocks on, which you should, then they restrict the drop anyway :lol:

I hope that helps.

Jon
 
Pretty much what jon said.

If your going to be fiddling all the time and fitting different types of wheels/exhausts often they are a must(well for me)
I think time consuming hits the nail on the head to be honest. If you've got the time and don't mind effort stick to your originals of fixed drop plates but remember if you stick with and hard slam on the og's you will increase rear camber a fair bit.
 
the wheels i have are 17" porsche twists. like i said i'm not too sure how low i want to go, but dont really want to lower it alot and then find i dont have much travel.

i did think about the whole issue with the welds breaking. after all it is only an inch square block welded onto the spring plate half and a m10 for adjustment. - not too sure about the bolt size.

still not too sure - i may just go fir it :roll:
 
I only have about 10-20mm of travel before the bump stop but I have fitted Spax adjustables to restrict/cope with it.

The ride is remarkably good, we drove around North and Mid Wales this summer and did a fair few shows too, about 4000 miles. My wife would not drive in it if it was too harsh, believe me :|
 
Pete B said:
Haveacamper said:
ok, so lowering the rear end. i was originially just going to lower by a spline or 2 with original spring plates. but this will change the ride quality and travel

NaFe
Dropped mine two splines at the back, no difference in ride quality whatsoever. Of course there is less travel, but no clearance probs. Have notched the original spring plates, all is fine. Who told you it would be a problem? From my experience they would be talking out of their hat (so to speak!) Adjustable plates make fine tuning easier when getting it all level or if you need to adjust when towing, otherwise why pay out? Just my view, others may well differ...

I agree.
 
Bondo said:
How about horse shoe plates good or bad?

Daz

just got myself a set but wont be fitting for a few months until the paint and engine are back on and in.

I took delivery of the dropped sipindles and horseshoe plates yesterday, construction looks really good welds are sound and look much more substantial that the OGee cast spindles. I've no qualms fitting them. I would be more worried about a bolt sheering or snapping than one of these welds breaking to be honest.

the rear plates even if they snapped are still held on to the spring plate with two bolts.
 
Was reading this on SSVC earlier, might be worth a look for those of you lowered or lowering the rear of your buses... lot's of interesting info.. good and bad!

http://www.ssvc.ukshells.co.uk/phpbb/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=46860&sid=ddf0d756318125b9dad2c63fc0fb263c" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

:)
 
Far-Canal said:
Was reading this on SSVC earlier, might be worth a look for those of you lowered or lowering the rear of your buses... lot's of interesting info.. good and bad!

http://www.ssvc.ukshells.co.uk/phpbb/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=46860&sid=ddf0d756318125b9dad2c63fc0fb263c" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

:)


haha - well i got to the end of page two and gave up... so much bitching.

mind you there were some really bad bad corners cut - no pun intended. i noticed some guy asked whether some actual FEA was done on any of the "re-designs. i do wonder if there is a market for this, because i have spoken to a few people who have introduced changes to the stock campers and they just seem to say " i have x-years experience and know that its strong enough. maybe i should start consulting and do the FEA and modelling to work out exactly what it changes and more importantly how much!
 

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