Fuel Line Replacement

[panic_fan]

Has anyone done this recently? I am fixing to order the complete fuel line kit from germansupply.com.
I was wondering how hard this is to do with the engine installed? Anyone have any good tips, pictures or instructions?
Thanks!

 

[steve92]

did mine a couple of months ago. easy job with the engine in. only tips i would have are, use proper fuel line clips and add an inline filter.seeing as your buying a complete kit im sure you will get these anyway. when i did mine i clamped the fuel line just after the outlet from the tank with a small g clamp as i didnt want to drain the tank, and replaced every thing after the clamp first, then removed the hose from tank QUICKLY! and slipped the new pipe on with only a minimal fuel spill into my right eye! oh i put the filter between the tank and the hard pipe, just over the gearbox.

 

[panic_fan]

oh i put the filter between the tank and the hard pipe, just over the gearbox.

Thanks for all the info...DId you just use a standard plastic filter?

 

[Tofufi]

oh i put the filter between the tank and the hard pipe, just over the gearbox.

Thanks for all the info...DId you just use a standard plastic filter?

I did on mine.

There has been some debate on where is best for the filter, but generally it is considered better to put the filter above the gearbox, not in the engine compartment.

 

[panic_fan]

Thanks guys, I think I will put the filter inline away from the engine compartment.

 

[noddy]

Have a fire extinguisher to hand, can get a bit messy with petrol going all over the place. I agree best place for filter is above gear box, this way your pump get protected as well.

To make life easier take off your RHS rear wheel, it makes getting to the fuel tank connection much easier.

As previous post suggested clamp each joint.
Another thing worth doing if you running a stock solex carb is, wire through the last pipe clamp the one that holds the fuel hose onto the carb, and then take out one of the screws that holds the top of the carb on and attach wire round screw and put back into card.
Stock solex carbs have a habit of the brass pipe into the float bowel coming out, by wiring the clap this should never happen.

 

[panic_fan]

finally saved up enough and got the kit on the way.

Just wanted a little info before I get started....

Looks like there is the tank connection then a long piece to metal line thru firewall. then the smaller 2 pieces w/ fuel filter (which I will move) in the engine compartment. I dont want to miss any.

Also how do you remove/replace the metal fuel line.

Thanks for helping a newbie. I love this site. Its hard to get help on other sites on an early bay!

 

[steve92]

no youve not missed any. soft pipe from tank.over gearbox to hard pipe through the firewall, then soft pipe to fuel pump, and fuel pump to carb. didnt replace my hard pipe as it was in great shape. but i think its just clipped to the tinware so should be easily removed and pushed or pulled through the firewall. above the gearbox there should be some metal clips that also support the soft pipe.

 

[panic_fan]

no youve not missed any. soft pipe from tank.over gearbox to hard pipe through the firewall, then soft pipe to fuel pump, and fuel pump to carb. didnt replace my hard pipe as it was in great shape. but i think its just clipped to the tinware so should be easily removed and pushed or pulled through the firewall. above the gearbox there should be some metal clips that also support the soft pipe.

You said you didnt replace metal line, but do you know how it is connected? Looks like some type of nut? No worries with the rubber lines, but I am not sure about this one.

 

[Wannabay]

Whatever you do, don't replace the metal pipe going thro' the engine tinware with a rubber/soft pipe - the metal pipe is used to stop fire spreading from the engine bay (heaven forbid) back down an inflammable fuel line to the petrol tank, hence the need for a metal pipe

I think there should be a grommet holding the metal pipe in the tinware, not sure why there is a nut

 

[panic_fan]

Definintly keeping the metal line, just not sure how it hooks up to the fuel pump.

 

[panic_fan]

Can anyone tell me how you change this when chanig fuel lines?

 

[Tofufi]

Wow, you have a very old style of pump there. You shouldn't need to undo that connection, just keep it connected between the fuel pump and the fuel line.

It unscrews in the same way as brake lines (using a spanner on the nut, should undo without turning the fuel line).

Later fuel pumps have another bit of flexible line between the metal line and the pump - not the nut / screw connection on the pump like your one has.

 

[Araon]

I'll hazard a guess its just an olive in there no big issues to replace.....

 

[panic_fan]

Wow, you have a very old style of pump there. You shouldn't need to undo that connection, just keep it connected between the fuel pump and the fuel line.

It unscrews in the same way as brake lines (using a spanner on the nut, should undo without turning the fuel line).

Later fuel pumps have another bit of flexible line between the metal line and the pump - not the nut / screw connection on the pump like your one has.

thanks! Yea, I guess not too many are familiar with this setup. I have had a tough time getting help. Everything in my 70 deluxe is original. Nothing really changed, just maintained.

I am going to change all the fuel lines, but I think I will leave the metal one alone. It needs a grommet in the firewall but the line isnt rubbed or anything.

 

[Clarkson46]

When replacing the rubber hoses use proper fuel line clips not the jubilee type shown in your picture.

These are the ones you need.

http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/VWP-onlinestore/hoses/hoses.php#clip" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

 

[HairyYeti]

Looks like the fuel pump to the carburettor has been 'hard-lined' : which is a good idea. Proper plumbing BSP type connections are a lot more reliable than hose clips and friction seals.

Make sure the fuel hose supplied with the kit is 5.5mm bore and of a R7 or preferably an R9 SAE designation - these are made to be resistant to modern fuels which have higher ethanol / alcohol contents like 95 Octane and lower.

If the line is R5 or undesignated then bin it an buy some that is.