Fuel pump gasket

[OliTom]

I’ve got an oil leak on my fuel pump so I started changing it yesterday, but half the bloomin plastic has snapped inside. I’m gonna tap thread it and put a bolt in to try and pull it out. Is that the best way to get it out and should I put any kind of lubricant down to help.

Secondly, there was no gaskets used, just some seal. Should I put gaskets on the new one or put it back the way it was when it worked fine. Just thinking the gaskets will raise the pump slightly won’t they, meaning the rod won’t hit the pump mechanism as it did?

71’ with standard engine

 

[Moseley]

There should be gaskets used, otherwise the only way the parts can be sealed is using silicone or similar, and this lends itself to squashing out and breaking off into your engine. I’ve just replaced mine, and admit to using a smear of Wellseal on both gaskets, just for some added protection.

Is there any way you can put some contact adhesive on the pump and try to glue the halves together before lifting out? Just thinking of any way you can avoid the risk of swarf getting into your block.


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[OliTom]

I managed to get it out using the tap and die set, created a new thread in the broken piece, then with a a bolt screwed in and a lot of frustration and persuasion, got it out.

I thought the gaskets surely would be better than gasket sealer alone, but thought I’d ask, seen as there was non on mine. (Maybe there was a reason unbeknown to me). My only other thought was, with the gaskets in place, the pump will sit a couple of mm higher. Possibly causing the pin to not rise as far into the diaphragm rocker switch inside as previously.

 

[Moseley]

As standard they should have gaskets and the push rod length should suit the setup with gaskets. Hopefully your push rod hasn’t been ground down too much, but I’m sure there is a reasonable tolerance.


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[ozziedog]

As all the guys ^^^have said, it should have gaskets. Sometimes this gets broken and glued back together, I’ve done it myself to get back on the road. If you have an original type pump and rod set up try and keep it. The modern version of the fuel pump commonly available through some of the major parts suppliers is a very poor substitute and the rods that come with them are made of chocolate and the better ones are made of a chromed toffees. It would appear that the newer they are then the worserer they are.

Ozziedog,,,,,,,Oli Tom,, great user name. :mrgreen:

 

[OliTom]

I’ve got it all back together and seems to be working well, I used the original push rod rather then the new one as it didn’t seem mushroomed at the end or too worn. I do have the original pump but the oil leaks from the small rod that runs horizontally on the pump. Are they repairable does anybody know? I’ve heard plenty of nightmares regarding the retro ones.

 

[sparkywig]

Measure the pushrod to make sure it hasn't worn, even a small amount of wear will affect the pumping pressure.
100mm for the alternator type pump (usually cranked to one side), and 108mm for the generator/dynamo pump.

 

[ozziedog]

I’ve got it all back together and seems to be working well, I used the original push rod rather then the new one as it didn’t seem mushroomed at the end or too worn. I do have the original pump but the oil leaks from the small rod that runs horizontally on the pump. Are they repairable does anybody know? I’ve heard plenty of nightmares regarding the retro ones.

I’m sure that there are repair kits for the original fuel pumps as they were assembled and not pressed together. Once upon a time it was a staple consumable but what the availability and /or the quality of the diaphragm is like now, I’ve no idea. I’d keep the original in the bus as a spare. I’d sooner get home with an oil leaking style fuel pump than on the big yellow taxi. :shock: . So now it’s off, have a look around for rebuild kits. My replacement GSF fuel pump lasted around two months and roughly twenty five miles, then the second one lasted for a few years.

Ozziedog,,,,, ,, rebuild if poss I reckon :mrgreen: :mrgreen:

 

[K@rlos]

Using sealer is fine, no different than sealing the case halves together...