Hand brake problem on 68 and method of adjusting rear brake

[shroom]

I have just failed my mot on hand brake adjustment for the second time. Doh

The rear brakes both hit 180 and the tester was quite impressed. He said that both parking brakes need to hit 120 for a pass.

I have adjusted the brakes so that at 3 clicks (as per muir book) i can just about turn them. I am hitting 75 and 85 (o/s)

Any ideas before i start stripping them down. The Bentley book says 6 clicks. Is there a mechanical advantage given as the handbrake pulls out?



This is my method of adjusting

Loosen both hand brake cables until the nuts are at the top.

Turn the adjustment "star" back as far as they can go. Then on one adjuster start to rotate the "star" until the wheel locks up so you can not turn by hand. Back off by 3 increments on the adjuster. The wheel now turns freely with slight drag from transmission felt. Adjust other star on same rear wheel adjuster by the same method.

Do other rear wheel as per above

Pump the brakes

Complete above steps again (just to make sure).

Pull the hand brake out three clicks. Hold the bottom of the adjusted with a spanner or top with a flat screwdriver, and turn the 10mm nut until you can just turn the wheel by hand. Lock it off. Now do other hand brake cable. Lock it off.

This should be brakes adjusted but i am struggling!!


Cheers any help would be great.

 

[dubdubz]

the slight change that I do is on adjusting the lever - is when I adjust I do 4-5 clicks out, and then get the cable adjusted so the wheel won't turn, or will with great pressure.
As long as when the handbrake is off, the wheels rotate freely and a dab on the pedal and release also the wheels move freely...should be all ok?

The only thing I can think of beyond that is the cables are stretching because they need replacement?

 

[Graham L]

As above sounds like either cables are stretching or are seized in the outer so it's not actually pulling the lever in the brake itself.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[ZedBed]

Or possibly the spacer bar is wrong/worn allowing the handbrake operating lever to hit the hub.
But Grahams advice is spot on - cables seized is very common.
If none of the above, I'd rough the shoes up a bit and take it straight back.

 

[shroom]

Cheers will order 2 new cables as stretch seems to be the realistic cause/issue. I have found some bills and they were changed 7 years ago.

My chassis number is

238 150 0715

Any idea how to find out if it was made prior to march 68 as cable lengths changed by 2mm on this date (does this matter?)

Cheers

Iain

 

[67panel]

cant see 2mm making any odds,check your lever in drum ,when its resting against cross bar it need to be about 1/2 way across shoe (the bit the spring hook in)if not then the slot in cross bar needs a bit of weld in it to take out wear.

 

[baj25]

I had an MOT advisory on handbrake last year, so before test this year I roughed up the linings (they were glazed) and same on inside of drum. I found an easy way to grease the cables was to disconnect at lever end, pull through drum backplate as far as they would go (mine wouldn’t come all the way out), clean up cable and slap grease on while pushing the cable back in. It made a big difference, handbrake actually holds on medium slopes now. Otherwise, procedure is pretty much as you describe. HTH, Bri