Imported Tintop Advice

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Skidsurf

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Hi Guys
I'm on the verge of buying my first bus (cash currently burning hole in pocket)!!
Been offered an imported 1970 tintop deluxe thats looks ok, but i'm trying to get a handle on the potential cost of converting it for the UK.
It needs all the usual bits and bobs doing (bit of welding, brakes etc)

But not sure how much it will cost for the following:
It needs a light conversion US to UK.
And a fuel conversion (i presume this means converting to run unleaded?)
Also the sliding sunroof needs cables?

Any advice is appreciated.
Thanks
Mike
 
Hi Mike,
When you say it needs welding, where does it need welding? Usually people look to US buses to avoid rust, but if they've been kept near the coast for example, then welding will probably be needed.
I can only talk about my experience as I imported a 1969 deluxe. The bus was rust free apart from a patch on the cargo floor where water had leaked in from the 1/4 seal.
Converting to UK spec lights + other bits and bobs/MOT cost around £150 if I remember correctly.

Factor in you may need all new seals, I did as the Arizona heat had dried mine out - £700 for the full kit + fitting.

My bus ran on unleaded from import so not sure about petrol conversion.

Hope this helps.
Paddy
 
Hi Mike,

Yep, Paddy is right - US buses run on unleaded so nothing to worry about there.
I would replace all the fuel lines and put a new fuel filter above the gearbox as opposed to one in the engine bay (where it most probably resides at the moment).

Good luck and welcome to Earlybay!

Spence
 
Hi
Thanks for the replies.
Welding required is battery tray, small repair to foot well and a sill repair.

Its running at present just need the repairs and MOT plus regestration and interior.

Ive got about £3000 for all the repair work, i think it sounds do able but i suppose it depends on the engines long term.
Cheers
 
I bought 2 new headlights, had mine lowered, changed the filter, had the wiring completed for the indicators, MOT's Lowered (fitted adjusters that I supplied on the font and turned the rear down a spline) it was given a once over, the rubber had perished on the ball joints so were all replaced and had 3 minor bits of welding completed all for £600. So I think your £3K will more than cover it.
 
Always air on the side of caution though. There will always be something else that needs replacing or sorting. Although your £3k seems ok.

There is a thread on here somewhere that people started to list the common parts/areas that will probably need addressing on US imports. Rubbers were definitely on there along with spiders! :). If I find it I will post a link.
 
I am not saying that the £3K wont get spent... I have gone to town on mine but to get it through the MOT unless it is a hideous rust bucket, which it is not from the description the OP has posted to get it through the MOT I think he should be fine.

J.
 
Welcome :D
I've just had a full service on my sliding sunroof, not cheap, but you can't beat driving around in the sun (if it arrives this year!) with the roof open and what you don't want is one of the cables snapping.
Cables x 2 @ £130 each
Gear assembly £35
Search sunroof on here to get more info on the roof's mechanics/ drain pipes etc
Enjoy :D
 
Whitley bay,
Fancy doing a service on mine .
I've got the cables just no skill!!
Done it manually since i have had the bus...2 bits of wood at the back to get the lid level.
 
As stated above sunroof cables and mech will be your biggest problem & cost (I know from experience) if it needs new cables it might need new guides, check whether all the plastic covers for the sunroof guides are there as without these it won't work (these are used to hold the guides down).

Happy to offer advice etc on Sunroofs as I've now done 2 of these including our own bus,

I presume the bus is already here?, just check the paperwork is in order, ie: HMRC form to say duty has been paid on the VIN number of the bus and ideally the US Title doc. THe HMRC form is the important one and make sure you check the VIN number against the one in the engine bay, not the one riveted to the dash.
 

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