slammedresto
Well-known member
faux said:Looking good Gary, good OG paint always makes me smile.Add some shiny new parts I just can't fault it. 8)
If you want to order rear shocks you can jack the back up to where you want it to sit and measure. This is due to the fact you will be dialing your rear to the max anyway, and without notching the rear chassis rails you are limited. You will see what I mean if you lift the rear up and look at your A arms and Drive shaft. There is only a couple of inches of movement (max) when you use the spax adjustables. You will also need to cut two thirds of your bump stops off and will only have 1cm ish of space between bump stop and plate. When you replace the shock with the spax or other lowered shock you will need to remove the lower shock bolt to get the wheels on and off.
As for the front, if you have 2 and a half inch dropped spindles I would set the adjusters to the maximum height and then move 1 to 2 teeth down. This should give you a drop that brings your tyres up into the arches. On mine I have 3 and a half inch spindles and it is set at maximum height.
Hope to see the bus in the flesh soon.
Jon
hi jon, we did that with the rear, but SSP said 16.5 inches didnt sound right!!!!!!! So gonna wait till we get it on the ground.
Already cut 2/3rds off the rear bump stop, and we jacked the rear wheel up, as u can see in the pic i posted, drive staft was 2 or so inches from the chassis.
front wise, weve set the adjusters at about half, will be low, so will adjust it once its down and we can see where we are
need a new fuse box now, as we discovered the old ones is snapped in half!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
wondered where the electric gremlin was :roll:
