twin carbs?

[streetboy]

Dicided this weekend is the weekend to have a pop at fitting my twin solex carbs in situ. I have had a look today to see what needs to be done. I know you can get the manifold out in situ but looks akward.
The way I see it the rear bumper, apron and rear tin peice needs to come off to gain access to the heat risers?
My other concern is the removal of the manifolds from the heads. It looks tight in there with the tinware on the head :shock: Will they come out or am I going to have fun and games teasing them out, or if they won't come out does this mean engine out?

Any advice about any pitfalls at this stage would be appreciated

 

[r73]

you'll get em out dude - it is tight tho!
you shouldnt need to take any more stuff off than what you said - if you have the original stand for the air filter that might need to be removed for twin carbs

have fun

 

[streetboy]

Hi Fella, patience is the key here I reckon does look bl**dy tight though :| I guess until I remove the nuts holding the manifolds I can't tell, just looks like the flanges might be trapped on the head shrouds, maybe not.
No stand problem as this was removed stateside many years ago as the bus was running solex's.

I suppose its a case of rolling up the sleeves and getting on with it

 

[K@rlos]

The manifold could be a bit of a bastard but not major tbh and as said the air cleaner stand will need to be removed, nothing a good hacksaw can't solve :lol: The new carbs should go in easier than the stock set up came out, hardest bit will probably be setting up the linkage.

Karl

 

[streetboy]

No stand problem as this was removed stateside many years ago as the bus was running solex's.

Hi Karl, I'm looking forward to the challenge, once I actually start that is :lol:

 

[67panel]

you dont need to take rear bumper or valance of ,rear tin will lift out when you undo screws.but you wont get manafold out past dynamo stand unless you cut off heat riser .it is a twin port? manafold ends will come out ok when all fixings are undone ,but have you got small nuts to go on new manafolds as you will strugle to tighten them with standard 13 mm spaner.good luck

 

[streetboy]

Hiya 67panel, thats handy to know it is a twin port and its fitted with an alternator, does that make a difference? I was told it should juggle out? Be a shame to wreck a good inlet manifold
The new manifolds have been shaved to aid getting onto the nuts with a thin walled socket.
The carbs came from a running 1600tp beetle and has 55 idle and 130 main jets. I'm hoping its set up near enough to run from the off. Its a stock engine apart from a 4 into1 header and box.

Feel more inspired now and roll on tomoz

 

[froggy]

Loosen the silicone hoses that join the centre manifold to the twin port manifolds, this will give a lot more play to wiggle the heat riser and centre part clear, you might have to remove the alternator belt and loosen up the fan housing to lift it slighty to get the heat risers past but nothing that cant be sorted easily enough.
Personally i would drop the engine, why struggle in working in the cramped engine bay when you can drop the engine in about 45 mins?

 

[streetboy]

Well on the way now, manifolds came out easy but I did cheat and cut one of the heat risers off to aid getting it out. :roll:
Everything coming together but I am a bit stumped as to where the fuel pipes run. The inlets for the carbs sit behind the fan housing and I've been pondering quite how to link it all up. I assume the fuel pipe and 'y' piece sit behind the cowling? what about the feed from the facet? should that run in front or behind? I could do with a pic or someone who has them fitted to put me right. I don't like the idea of the pipes higher than the float chambers.

Barring that it's full steam ahead

 

[K@rlos]

No stand problem as this was removed stateside many years ago as the bus was running solex's.

Hi Karl, I'm looking forward to the challenge, once I actually start that is :lol:

If they get set-up properly, twin carburettors is probably 1 of the best mods you can make to a boxer engine.
You say you've got a 4 into 1 exhaust system too with will allow the carburettors to work at their best because it will allow the engine to breath better.
:mrgreen:

 

[streetboy]

Hi Karl, not a bad day although I lost 3 hours running my eldest son around shopping as he is up from uni in Plymouth this weekend :roll:
Sorted the fuel pipes and everything is more or less in situ now. Just wiring to the pump and a few cable ties etc to tidy it all up.

Early start tomorrow morning and I hope to have a go at firing her up

Old set up out

On its way

 

[K@rlos]

Hi Karl, not a bad day although I lost 3 hours running my eldest son around shopping as he is up from uni in Plymouth this weekend :roll:
Sorted the fuel pipes and everything is more or less in situ now. Just wiring to the pump and a few cable ties etc to tidy it all up.

Early start tomorrow morning and I hope to have a go at firing her up

Old set up out

On its way

Mark, looking good 8) I see your gonna be running a electric fuel pump and regulator, i've am meaning to fit those to mine, still in the box :lol:

 

[alex4057]

if you take the fuel lines round the back of your tinware it'll look a lot cleaner

 

[streetboy]

if you take the fuel lines round the back of your tinware it'll look a lot cleaner

Hiya Alex, when I get some more fuel pipe I intend to. Its too messy as it is now. I was limited as the carbs came with the pump and pipes etc as a job lot.Its running now and not too bad for a bolt up and start up job does race a little when you flick the throttle though :? not the cable or lingkage.
But please, please tell me how to get a screwdriver onto the lefthand mixture screw :shock: I note Alex your fan cowl is totaly different from mine and looks a lot easier to get to everything. Your supposed to get to the screw from behind the tinware but that ain't gonna happen very easy.

 

[aogrady]

if you take the fuel lines round the back of your tinware it'll look a lot cleaner

Hiya Alex, when I get some more fuel pipe I intend to. Its too messy as it is now. I was limited as the carbs came with the pump and pipes etc as a job lot.Its running now and not too bad for a bolt up and start up job does race a little when you flick the throttle though :? not the cable or lingkage.
But please, please tell me how to get a screwdriver onto the lefthand mixture screw :shock: I note Alex your fan cowl is totaly different from mine and looks a lot easier to get to everything. Your supposed to get to the screw from behind the tinware but that ain't gonna happen very easy.

Hi!

Been following your thread with interest, would love to change mine to twin carbs, as i too had a stock 1600TP.
Will be interested to see how you get on with the Solexs. Did you get them as a complete kit, with the fuel pump, regulator and gauge? Where from and how much if you dont mind me asking?

Cheers!

Alistair

 

[streetboy]

Hi Alistair came as carbs, filters, linkage, manifolds, facet and pipes. That little lot was around £320.
I added new cork gaskets for the filters, fuel regulator, inline pressure gauge and blanking plug, anti pulse unit for the vacuum, carb to stand gaskets, manifold to head gaskets and two heat riser blanks.
I drilled out and fitted vacuum pipes to the carbs (which are working fine)

Very pleased so far Alistair, it certainly goes a bit now. Feels much more responsive under foot. I came up a long steep drag near me which is normaly a 50mph job, today it went up at 60mph easy, and was still pulling

I do have a couple of things to sort out. I want to set the mixture up on my mates c/o machine, but need to work out how to access the left screw. And re-route those blessed fuel pipes :roll:

As I was taking the old carb etc off yesterday I was quesioning why I wanted to disturb it all as the bus was running nice, well now I know why

 

[aogrady]

Hi Alistair came as carbs, filters, linkage, manifolds, facet and pipes. That little lot was around £320.
I added new cork gaskets for the filters, fuel regulator, inline pressure gauge and blanking plug, anti pulse unit for the vacuum, carb to stand gaskets, manifold to head gaskets and two heat riser blanks.
I drilled out and fitted vacuum pipes to the carbs (which are working fine)

Very pleased so far Alistair, it certainly goes a bit now. Feels much more responsive under foot. I came up a long steep drag near me which is normaly a 50mph job, today it went up at 60mph easy, and was still pulling

I do have a couple of things to sort out. I want to set the mixture up on my mates c/o machine, but need to work out how to access the left screw. And re-route those blessed fuel pipes :roll:

As I was taking the old carb etc off yesterday I was quesioning why I wanted to disturb it all as the bus was running nice, well now I know why

Hi!

All sounds very good. I like the pressure gauge! Sounds ideal, and reasonably straight forward? How do the Solex's compare to a Weber ICT which is a similar price I believe, are Kadrons a copy of the Solex? Do the Solex's have a warm up choke, or do they fire up and tick over as normal when cold, no pre heat pipes like the old 34 PICT3 carb?

Cheers!

Alistair

 

[streetboy]

The pressure gauge is only on there while I set it up, I will replace the gauge with a blanking plug when done. I'm told its not advisable to run the gauge all the time, although I can't see why.
Kadrons a copy of Solex? I'm not sure.
I believe you can get the carbs without chokes like mine, (I have a spring I can hook up from the pedal to the pedal stop for cold starting, keeps the revs up for 5mins till it warms up a bit)
You can get them with electric chokes if you wish but I here they can be troublesome?

Solex/Kadrons are not everybodys choice, webbers seem very popular, but I am quite happy with them so far.

I can deffo tell you what ever carbs you go for they will make a big difference.

Go for it Alistair

 

[r73]

good work bud - i like the pressure guage! cant see why you cant keep it - seen loads with them on perm.

I will be fitting my 36 dells when i've saved up for the other bits I need (jets/blanking plates for risers+chokes/fuel reg. filters/linkage ah the list goes on!!
:?

 

[alex4057]

if you take the fuel lines round the back of your tinware it'll look a lot cleaner

Hiya Alex, when I get some more fuel pipe I intend to. Its too messy as it is now. I was limited as the carbs came with the pump and pipes etc as a job lot.Its running now and not too bad for a bolt up and start up job does race a little when you flick the throttle though :? not the cable or lingkage.
But please, please tell me how to get a screwdriver onto the lefthand mixture screw :shock: I note Alex your fan cowl is totaly different from mine and looks a lot easier to get to everything. Your supposed to get to the screw from behind the tinware but that ain't gonna happen very easy.

My fan shroud is the smallest I can use and also as I don't use heat exchangers it have no out's,

As for your mixture screw prob, I think you'll end up buying a stumpy screw driver and then hacking it down so it's even stumpier, This is an issue with the solex's, Webers and Dellorto's have the mixture screw on the sides facing out.

Cheers

Alex