Your help needed again, End Float.

[andys]

Iv fitted a new Flywheel oil seal and when i have refitted the flywheel i now have end float?
As i have never done this befor what do i need to do to sort it. :?

Thanks Andy

 

[woodslat]

My guess is, a couple of the three shims that were seated behind the flywheel have dropped out while it was apart. Any extra parts left over?

 

[andys]

No nothing has dropped out.

 

[oneday!]

Has the flywheel gone back on correct and been tightened up to the right setting as i would say if theres no shims missing or fallen out? dont no how they fall out that is then it must be something you have done one other thing did you check your endfloat when engine was hot or cold as you might have been mistaken when checking it before you started it,as i find with mine no play when cold but when warm a slight movement or maybe the other way around
keep us posted

Leon

 

[andys]

The flywheel did not go back on correct the first time :roll:
I can not remember any end float before working no the engine,
I have checked the endfloat and it seems to be 1mm.
can i get some new shims and reshim it.

Thanks for the feed back.
Andy

 

[noddy]

The process as I remember it for checking end float is.

1. Take one shim out
2. Bolt fly wheel up to torque.
3. Measure end float at fly wheel
4. ((Measurement (3)) - (shim thickness for 2 shim left in) = new shim size to buy.

Haynes or bentley manual should tell you what the range should be. From memory the upper limit is 0.5mm.

Also remember to oil the shims before you fit to stop dry start up, and 3 shims is minimum dont fit less it will cause more running friction.

I would recommend you buy a cheep dial gauge and stand off ebay to get an accurate measurement, its also useful for when setting front wheel bearing.

 

[dubdubz]

did you fit both seals? there's an o ring one to inside the part that bolts to the crank - gets overlooked

you need a dial gauge really - you can do it with digital calipers, which you also need so you could try with those first.

The idea is there is an inbuilt allowance for the crank to move longitudinally[sp?] , called end float...3 shims are inserted to get this measurement to within the optimal range 0.07 - 0.13mm, as the engine wears the measurement increases and you can reshim the pack to get extra life until the day a thrust cut is needed.......

*rest of lenghty post removed as Noddy's explanation is much better :mrgreen: *

 

[andys]

Thanks guys, i have the use of an end float tool will this do for now, and buy one of each shim, as i need to get this sorted by the weekend. Also need a new Fly wheel oil seal .

Andy

 

[BJ1]

If you have 1mm endfloat you either have no shims at all or something is very seriously wrong with the front main bearing. Are you sure the flywheel is bedding down properly?

 

[dubdubz]

Also need new Fly wheel oil sealS .

Andy

don't forget the o-ring one too, some like to lighlty lube too to stop seal burn on startup!! which I'm sure you know....I have some shims here and could post [if there wasn't a strike!]

by what method are you torq'ing it up - and you left out the paper/aluminium gasket? these are only for early engines.......

 

[andys]

:shock: 1mm of endfloat was just a rough look,
I will know later when i get the endfloat tool how much i do have .

dubdubz thanks for the offer of the shims i have some ordered and just waiting for them. There was no paper/aluminium gasket when i removed the flywheel so did not order a new one.
Thanks again with all the help will let you know how i get on,
Now to sort a rear wheel on my lads BMX :roll: something todo befor the post arrives