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Does anyone know of a van cover that comes to the bottom of the windows and stops there, or recommend source of proper fabric I could make one from?

Thanks for that. So close, it is 71 year 72 model (to jack or not to jack? if I had the height under cover I would)

What is the bar behind the bumper across the bottom of the engine hatch door called? It is bolted in on the split, but welded on the bay. Has anyone converted theirs to bolted?

Just done this a few weeks ago, like you want to stay with chrome, had to buy one used off eBay to replace one of the bits broken in mine, but this gave me extra wafers to play with. Been dreading the job but is easy to figure out when you have the bits in front of you. The springs behind the...

The early bay 1600 had dynamo, later 1600 and type4 had alternator. The dynamo is longer than its diameter, the alternator is about same length as its diameter.

I have an early '72 so is a '71 model, the regulator is a Bosch RE55. Google image will show you what they look like, mine is mounted top right hand corner of the engine bay firewall as you look through the rear engine hatch, but not sure is this the original position, it does not look very VW...

there would be room above the headliner, there are transverse ribs at B and C posts which are more than an inch deep and the liner hangs lower than these. Why not follow the loom under the floor to the engine bay then up through the rear corners to come into the van at the rear door hinges. As...

Dub boy is right, you need the tins, carbs, generator, fan drive, cooler, rear mount, then is relatively easy, T4 thermostats are very rare, there is a conversion how to if you want to stick with the earlier arrangement. written by Joe Cali: http://volkswagens.wikia.com/wiki/Type_4_conversion

depends muchly on what you have in the split to start with, and what is planned for gear ratios. My split came with a 1600 AS motor mated to the original gearbox, same engine as fitted to the early bays, my early bay came with 1800 type 4 and 3 rib box which fitted the earlier transmission, but...

Thanks for the advice, now sorted courtesy of eBay. And having fixed the passenger cab door lock learnt enough to tackle the drivers side to get ride of its unique key too.

Had a weber progressive on a stock 1800 type 4 and could not live with the manifold icing, if you have manifold heating might be better.

basic stuff, but check the breather tube for emulsion/blockage and goes to downstream of the air filter, was a recurring problem for me each winter with mostly short journeys. Eventually fitted a bigger diameter thin wall pipe which is still clean after two years.

if it shuts close with a real heavy slam, it should also close with normal slam then lift the outside handle up to pull the rear of the door in till it clicks. I had to loosen my adjusters after fitting a new seal. There is a picture of the adjuster for the rear catch here 3rd from the end...

When mine stopped working it had broken bits inside to do with the self cancel which were jamming the mechanism, re-assembled without these and it works and stays on but now need to manually cancel which is mot ok. Don't have photos, sorry.

Forgot to say have it stripped and the barrel is fractured.

Just pulled the passenger cab door lock barrel out with the key!!!!!!! looking for a replacement lock and C&C have VW genuine for £50, gulp, or pattern handle with lock and key £15 from C&C or JK, but checking the JK questions and answers for J10002, one response says ok to swop the lock to...

We have type 4 motor and a 1600 AS on our two vans. How do you find the single weber? The missus bay, came to us with a single twin choke weber progressive, which is a nice carb but needs a hot summers day as the type 4 doesn't have heated manifolds, for average temperatures its a pig, for cold...

'cant say I've had a squeak, but did used to have very stiff which i think was mostly the pedal arm bearing, whilst this was off squirted chain lube up each end of the cable guide, aerosol stuff for exposed motorbike chain.

I've given up trying to run a weld in body thickness steel, use tacks that eventually join up, 0.6 or0.8 wire is ok, tacking lets you turn the amps up a bit and then have less to grind off after, as soon as the arc stabilises its done, I can hear it quicker than my eyes adjust to see it, watch a...

maybe i'm being super dim today but there is a couple of things I dont understand when the engine is not running how does fuel get from the inlet system into the exhaust system without going via the cylinder, and partially filling the cylinder enough to drain into the sump? if fuel is coming...