1600 rebuild

[paul&teresa]

Hello there i have a stock 1600 twin port and its in need of a rebuild, im new to the camper scene so go easy :lol:

Ive rebuilt a few engines before but im trying to cost everything up before i start, will it need a complete rebuild or do some parts get re used obviously this depends on wear but whats the norm ? is it worth going for twin carbs if so whats the best ones to go for i would be after a complete kit

Thought about buying a recon but id prefere to get to grips with the engine and do it all myself

any info or links much appreciated

heres a pic of the bus in question :mrgreen:

 

[james_stan]

Hi

First stop Tom Wilson book how to rebuild youraircooled VW engine..

Next assess what needs doing...

Minimum could be simply new bearings, crank polish, new rings, gasket set, valves re-lapped,
and change from 100 quid.

Worst case crankcase needs machining (align bore and thrust cut) crank regrind, new pistons, barrells, oil cooler, gasket set and possibly even heads. 400 quid plus

Carbs - ICT 34 webers..


Good luck

JS

 

[ozziedog]

Hey there Paul and Theresa,, if you are new to the scene then great and hello ! A lot of the people on here kept telling me to get a Bentley manual for all the information, so I didn`t get one :roll: for a long time then I gave in and got one. All the stuff in there is invaluable, torque wrench settings etc etc etc etc (oh I got one now) And the rebuild book as mentioned above sounds a great idea ^^^ :mrgreen: I know you`re saying it`s time for a rebuild, but what`s prompted this ?? what sort of symptoms ?? Or is it just hard work getting up to the ton nowdays ?? :lol: If you give us a little idea of why you`re going there, someone may be able to deduce the sort of work required. But very very satisfying to bolt him back in and hear him start. :mrgreen:

Ozziedog,,,,,,,,,,,, Read some of my threads to find some dropped clangers :lol:

 

[paul&teresa]

Hello there thanks for the replys, ive ordered the book on amazon so i can have a good read of that :mrgreen:

The bus has covered a few miles 120k i think so figured it was time, burns some oil and throws abit up the back, also wanted to go over the cooling side of things and maybe change to an alternator i figured this would be easier with the engine out

 

[madjack]

I had the same feeling with mine but lost all self control and found out that if you have a figure in mind times it by 5 and you will be nearly there .Would check out KingFisher Kustoms as they are priced pretty well .Also would defo go for the twin Crabs as I went for the progressive and have just changed to the twin ICT'S and what a difference .Hope you have great fun in your camper it looks good

 

[paul&teresa]

ha ha times by 5 ay i hope not how much did you spend on yours if you dont mind me asking ? also whats the progressive type ?

cheers paul

 

[madjack]

Well I was lucky as the case and crank were in good condition here is the list of costs below.
New Heads £320
1641 B&P £220
Carbs £200 Second hand
Engle 110 cam and drive gear £120
Bugpack full flow kit £160
Alternator conversion with sepintine belt £270
New fuel pump £30
009 distributer £50
Electronic ignition £30
Oil Pump £50
New fan £30
fuel lines and ends £150
J Tubes £40
Stainless back box £125
Gasket kit £15
Push tubes £24
Bearings £60
Oil Cooler £50
and I would say about £150 0n bits and bobs

So a total of about £2000 and built myself Bus will now cruise at 70 and can peak at about 80 on a standard 1600 gearbox and balanced the conrods and pistons to within .1g

No pop top thought but full Camper interior

 

[madjack]

Sorry best way I can explain the Progressive carb is a single carb with to barrels so allowing more fuel in then a single barrel carb easier to set up and fairly efficent although I do tend to have a heavy right foot.Sure someone on hear can give you a more techical insight .

 

[ZedBed]

Sorry best way I can explain the Progressive carb is a single carb with to barrels so allowing more fuel in then a single barrel carb easier to set up and fairly efficent although I do tend to have a heavy right foot.Sure someone on hear can give you a more techical insight .

These are commonly fitted then removed again. One reason for this (the one's I've seen) is you need to mod your linkage for more action. If you leave it standard, you'll never use the second barrrel (choke). It makes quite a difference to the acceleration when you use the whole carb.

 

[james_stan]

Well I was lucky as the case and crank were in good condition here is the list of costs below.
New Heads £320
1641 B&P £220
Carbs £200 Second hand
Engle 110 cam and drive gear £120
Bugpack full flow kit £160
Alternator conversion with sepintine belt £270
New fuel pump £30
009 distributer £50
Electronic ignition £30
Oil Pump £50
New fan £30
fuel lines and ends £150
J Tubes £40
Stainless back box £125
Gasket kit £15
Push tubes £24
Bearings £60
Oil Cooler £50
and I would say about £150 0n bits and bobs

So a total of about £2000 and built myself Bus will now cruise at 70 and can peak at about 80 on a standard 1600 gearbox and balanced the conrods and pistons to within .1g

No pop top thought but full Camper interior

Wow ! that's a lot of stuff and obviously at the top end of what Paul & Theresa might need. Replacing the oil pump has got to be a good idea, but I see a lot on the list is new aftermarket bits which you wouldn't necessarily need for a basic rebuild. New standard B&P from JK are just 150 for example and standard oil pump 20-25 quid. Keeping it standard will keep the parts bill low, as MadJack knows get tempted to bring in some extra horses and be prepared to dig deep.

JS

 

[paul&teresa]

well the engines out and took all of an hour, prob along time conpared to most engine removals but it was my first time on a bus

the 4 bell housing bolts where hand tigh as where 2 of the ones on the support bar and the centre one was missing :roll:

Engines now down my dads shed and will start stripping some bits off, need to decide what im going to do really not got a huge budget so prob just some forged pistons & barrells, new oil pump etc. Wanted to getb the whole kit from just kampers with the heads but havnt got the dosh.

Is it worth changing the dizy from the vacume one that i have ?

 

[ZedBed]

Take the top end off before you decide. More than likely just piston rings and lap the valves in will do the job. It's also recieved wisdom to replace the exhaust valves as well. If you renew anything top end, as a minimum replace the big end bearings as well - less than a tenner and no need to split the case. There you go - including a gasket set, prob still less than £100.

 

[paul&teresa]

Thanks for the info zedbed, stripped the egine today bar the case, pulled one of the heads off and a ring was cracked in half which has scored bore, one other bore is scored but other 2 are ok. Looks like i ll fit 1640 kit. Seems as though i have no thermostat either ? bit strange was no sign of it cant quite get my head around how this works and where it should be exactly

Priced all the relavent bits up from vw heritage and its comming in at £530 which includes a alternator convertion.

Whats the deal with twin carbs spotted some empi 34 epc twin kit is this anygood ? says it has no chokesd will this be a problem ?

thanks for all the info people much appreciated :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen:

 

[ZedBed]

I misjudged your attitude! Seriously replace the big ends as well - it's easy and very cgheap. TBH you'd be wise to split the case, renew all the bearings and have done.
Twin carbs are better than single but it's still a heavy underpowered brick.

 

[alex4057]

Thanks for the info zedbed, stripped the egine today bar the case, pulled one of the heads off and a ring was cracked in half which has scored bore, one other bore is scored but other 2 are ok. Looks like i ll fit 1640 kit. Seems as though i have no thermostat either ? bit strange was no sign of it cant quite get my head around how this works and where it should be exactly

Priced all the relavent bits up from vw heritage and its comming in at £530 which includes a alternator convertion.

Whats the deal with twin carbs spotted some empi 34 epc twin kit is this anygood ? says it has no chokesd will this be a problem ?

thanks for all the info people much appreciated :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen:

Just remember heritage have a 10% sale on all orders over £100 this december, early bay members already get a 5% discount but the extra 5% makes a difference.

Cheers

Alex

 

[Tintop]

I have a 1600 SP and run twin 34 icts which don't have chokes these are combined with electronic ignition, electric fuel pump & regulator.

Not a problem, fires first time runs well. Plenty of power and a good combination with the engine.

Money well spent.

My advise is, if you can afford it and have plans for future upgrades go for a 1776cc rebuild and full flow your block. This is an upgrade i'm planning to do.