anyone running red9 wishbone kit?

[pkrboo]

So I am thinking about getting one of these for my Late bay. Is the tallest it can be setup drop wise is 3" ?? I assume the new bevel box is being sent out with new racks now?

 

[Mags]

So I am thinking about getting one of these for my Late bay. Is the tallest it can be setup drop wise is 3" ?? I assume the new bevel box is being sent out with new racks now?

Lowest drop is 6" according to the docs. I think I've got mine on the highest setting (or maybe one hole lower) and run stock wheels/tyres:

You need to ask Simon about the gearbox but I would assume you get the new type.

 

[pkrboo]

So I am thinking about getting one of these for my Late bay. Is the tallest it can be setup drop wise is 3" ?? I assume the new bevel box is being sent out with new racks now?

Lowest drop is 6" according to the docs. I think I've got mine on the highest setting (or maybe one hole lower) and run stock wheels/tyres:

You need to ask Simon about the gearbox but I would assume you get the new type.

Good news about the wheels,I want to keep my standard steelies, from a lowering perspective I have a 2.5" drop at the moment and don't want much more so it is the minimum drop I need which I think is 3" and it goes as low as 6.5" with adjustment on the shocks as well, if I have read correctly.

 

[bluenose]

just out of interest why go for the red9 and run stock height?

although the red9 rides nice the stock setup is still more comfy

 

[pkrboo]

just out of interest why go for the red9 and run stock height?

although the red9 rides nice the stock setup is still more comfy

The main reason is for the steering rack tbh, a 3" drop isn't stock height, its still a fair drop but keeps my van drivable in 99.9% of circumstances.

 

[Oilybay]

Just completed our first trip 800mile after fitting the red9design front wish bone suspension, complete with the new design Bevel box. What a difference, it has totally transformed the handling for the better, & the new design bevel box is much better than the old block of aluminium setup.

 

[pkrboo]

Well. Have ordered mine after a visit to red9 yesterday. They showed me the new bevel box and I had the shortest test drive in history( did a 3 point turn in their bus) just to see what the steering felt like. I collect approx. the middle of October

 

[Humphrey]

Just had the new steering box that Simon supplied fitted, huge difference. Steering is tight and responsive. The new box also tucks up underneath about 2" higher than the old aluminium box which used to hang down too low IMO. No more risk of smacking it on a hump. If you haven't got the new box from Simon yet, give him a shout...it's night and day!

 

[Mags]

I finally managed to get the new bevel box fitted over xmas, I had tried a couple of times before but it didn't sit right and caused the column to bind on the plastic insulator at the bottom of the outer column. I had to trim down the mounting plate that Simon supplies with the bevel box and trim a very small amount on the bottom flange of my chassis rail and relieve a bump on the chassis rail as well and it just about fits now with no problem.
The inner column is turning freely now but it's still very close even with the lower column mounting pushed as far forward as I can in the cab.
Anyway, the difference is night and day, lovely precise steering, no slop and actually feels a little lighter to steer than previously as I'm guessing the bevel gears are larger?
Not easy to see what I had to trim but here a shot anyway.

Whilst in the process I noticed one of the steering track rod ends is completely shot, the rubber gaiters has split all the way round and needs to be replaced, the bus has only been on the road since April! They must be totally s*** quality parts.

 

[bluenose]

Well done dude, great with this bevel box isn't it, did u notice if the bracket is steel or ali?

If your a bit close on the column binding has the floor been replaced at some point? Or maybe u could open up the holes in the base plate a little to move it forward some. I think a PO did this on mine as the holes were massive so I had plenty adjustment to centre the column

I think the tie rod ends are just standard t25 ones. I haven't checked if my boots are okay but have noted you can only get the nut on them by about two threads and doesn't reach the nylon


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[pkrboo]

Well done dude, great with this bevel box isn't it, did u notice if the bracket is steel or ali?

If your a bit close on the column binding has the floor been replaced at some point? Or maybe u could open up the holes in the base plate a little to move it forward some. I think a PO did this on mine as the holes were massive so I had plenty adjustment to centre the column

I think the tie rod ends are just standard t25 ones. I haven't checked if my boots are okay but have noted you can only get the nut on them by about two threads and doesn't reach the nylon


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The bracket is steel, its just zinc coated so looks ali.

When I fitted mine I also had a to take off a little of the chassis, only a bit of the return metal where it is pressed together so that the bevel box would sit flush. It also helped with lining up with the steering column.

 

[Mags]

Well done dude, great with this bevel box isn't it, did u notice if the bracket is steel or ali?

If your a bit close on the column binding has the floor been replaced at some point? Or maybe u could open up the holes in the base plate a little to move it forward some. I think a PO did this on mine as the holes were massive so I had plenty adjustment to centre the column

I think the tie rod ends are just standard t25 ones. I haven't checked if my boots are okay but have noted you can only get the nut on them by about two threads and doesn't reach the nylon


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As prkboo says it is a fairly thin steel plate. Ideally mine needd remaking to bring the box back about 5 to 10 mm so my column position is centralised but as i have fitted ok now i won't be doing that.
My floor is og as far as i can tell, funny enough one of the only areas that is! I did think of stretching the holes but luckily didn't need to in the end.
I did replace the bolts and threaded stud that simon supplied for ssteel ones.
Yes think the ends are t25 and when i looked them up on vwh they come with castle nuts instead of nylocs.
Glad to see I'm not the only one that had to do a little bit of cutting.
Anyone think the front end needs an ARB? I asked simon why they didn't make one and he thought it wasn't required wich i thought was odd given that i expect pretty much anything on the road or track has one.

Mags

 

[Bundy]

I made a new bracket for my replacement bevel box as it just wouldn't line up...but mine has had a frontal accident at some point and the floor is by no means straight!
The new bracket was made with thicker metal for peace of mind and uses all 4 bolt holes to attach it.
I also feel it needs an anti-roll bar, but instead I bought slightly firmer springs. That has made it much better when loaded (I carry a lot and have a full interior fitted) and I could back the shocks off a bit too. It can be a little firm when not loaded, but feels much more comfortable cornering, so makes me happier!
Cheers
Al

 

[bluenose]

I don't really know if an ARB is required but I haven't noticed any body roll issue despite cornering much faster than I dared do on the stock setup so i guess not needed.

Saying that the struts are pretty firm so maybe if it did have an ARB it might have allowed softer suspension and more comfortable ride. But still it rides much better than other lowering methods imo


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[Trikky2]

The ARB does more than just reduce body roll. It changes the handling of the vehicle.
If you remove the ARB most vehicles will oversteer in extremis.

Haveacamper on this forum knows a great deal about suspension systems if you would like to know more.

 

[Graham L]

As above the ARB does make a difference and we are now offering 4" narrowed ARB's for the French Slammer narrowed beams, on a wishbone setup its even more critical as otherwise each side is acting totally independent of the other side.

 

[*Sam*]

If you can't get a front ARB that fits you could try fitting a rear ARB, this will give more traction/grip at the rear
You would ordinarily run a softer ARB on the front of a RWD vehicle and a stiffer on the rear.
I'm guessing the red 9 is far stiffer on the front with better control of the damping so whilst an ARB may well still improve the handling it might not be so critical.

 

[slammedkustom]

ive always thought this set up needs an arb. when you go into a bend you can feel the "lean" guess it wouldn't happen as much if my bus was slammed or much firmer on the setting.
problem would be mounting it. cant just bolt it to the a arms like they are fitted on a standard set up

on a side note anyone else had probs with their steering gaitors getting eaten by the lower wishbone bolt? ive finally got round to doing something with mine. might put up a post if its more than just me having issues

 

[Bundy]

Not noticed the steering gaiters getting eaten, but gonna check them this weekend now you've said that!
I have had an issue with the rubber brake pipe rubbing on the track rod end lock nut to the extent it nearly went all the way through it....but careful fitting so it angles out the way helps, as does wrapping a bit of silicon pipe over the nut to give a smooth surface to lean on!

 

[easy]

So many issues with such an expensive bit of kit. I really dont see the appeal personally. A good narrowed beam and set of quality shocks and your sorted, much less grief :mrgreen:

Not knocking the tech, but im out. :mrgreen: