Aux fuse box help needed.

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Hi Clyde

I hope all is well (and I don't dare ask about the phone.)

Here is a very rough sketch of what I think you asked for, it should be very simple but you can complicate it as much as you want with additional switches and gauges.

Jon

P180109_1936.jpg
 
Cheers mate and dont worry the phone is fine...............if anything happens to it again dont worry youll never know.
Thanks for the piccy that was what i had in mind first off, before i got well confused .
Thanks for everyones replys. Will give it a good coat of looking at soon...........honest. :lol:
 
clyde said:
Cheers mate and dont worry the phone is fine...............if anything happens to it again dont worry youll never know.
Thanks for the piccy that was what i had in mind first off, before i got well confused .
Thanks for everyones replys. Will give it a good coat of looking at soon...........honest. :lol:
:D
 
birchyman said:
fit a two way switch it will have 3 prongs on bach any will do i used the guage with a switch from just campers 1 prong to engine battery 2prong to leisure battery then the middle prong is the output this way you can switch between batterys wire all out puts cig sockets lights radio etc to this middle prong as long as you have a fuse next to both batteries you wont need a separate fuse box

All on one breath!

I'll copy and turn into mortal bullet points - cheers!
 
faux said:
Hi Clyde

I hope all is well (and I don't dare ask about the phone.)

Here is a very rough sketch of what I think you asked for, it should be very simple but you can complicate it as much as you want with additional switches and gauges.

Jon


Excellent Faux. But for an electrical muppet like me what amp fuses do you need for each output listed, which are I guess what most people would need & use?
 
I would generally use the 10amp fuses, but I'm no electrician and I would check with an auto electrician if you aren't as relaxed about these things as me.

Some electrical items have use ratings listed.

Oh and here is a pic which is stickied at the top of the Technical section:

LeisurebatteryAlternator.jpg


I fit terminal 86 (blue wire) to terminal 15 coil.
 
birchyman said:
LastScan.jpg

ok sorry its drawn would take me a week to draw on computer its really simple if you run the out put cable the lengh of the van you can pick up power any where ive got cig sockets at rear door for airbeds sliding door for awning power in pop top and 2 on dash plus all my lights radio itrip dash fan etc my switch is on the rear w/robe so i can switch off when in bed use 3mm wire and 30amp fuses ,fuses as near to battery terminal as poss

where would you put the switching relay in this setup?

I assume that the output is additional to the ccts already supplied by the existing wiring from the starter battery to the existing fusebox.

The bit I am confused over is the 'when the van is running' ie when travelling I guess the switch should be on car? so the radio [we'll assume has been swapped over to the joint output connection] would work from the starter batt.........although if the smart relay thing was working the leisure batt would be charging [and at 13.8v] and could power the radio whilst on the move?? so the switch position on the aux bits wouldn't matter.........

thanx in advance
 
the relay goes between the two batteries it doesnt matter which position the switch is in when driving
as long as its not turned off.i will do another diagram with relay and mains system this weekend and put it on a new post
 
thanks - a new diag would be great........do you have any concerns over the ampage rating of the gauge [it is only a test thingy?]

thought about making a panel with a car voltmeter and a dp higher ampage on/off/on toggle switch..........

thanks again......
 
pretty sure switch is ok to 45A mine has run for 5 years no probs and i run a lot of gear, usually by sunday morning at a show my leisure battery is flat, ive got disco lights and all sorts of stuff running all weekend thats why it makes sense .plus once on a tour of wales my dynamo went but i could still carry on the holiday by charging my engine battery every night and still using all my 12v .although people say they dont see the point if you do it i promise you will use it, again this is why all caravans and motorhomes are wired this way il do the diagram and post sun or mon cheers
 
is it worth returning the output feed? ie making a ring cct or does it not work with 12v dc?

just thinking about potential ve drop over the length of cable, although the vans aren't very long!!
 
birchyman said:
although people say they dont see the point

in a moment of clarity at my father in law's funeral (funny how the mind works :| ) it came to me what's been bugging me about 'your' system :shock:

speaking as an engineer, it has no fail-safe.

we're camping in the wilderness (ok, par :roll: ) the leisure battery goes flat, i'm in the sea, mrs councillor wants to listen to belle & sebastian live at the BBC what's she gonna do ? flick your switch across that's what, and hey presto the dulcet sound of their cover of 'here comes the sun' is soon filling the air.

*sorted*

or are we ? we've got the music going, the lights are on, imagine if you will a world of camper comfort so far removed from the original westfalia campingboxes that i've even got my own electric blanket :shock: ooh it's lovely and warm in here what with that and the propex going, let's have another continental lager out of the 12V coolbox.

*what a night*

oh man, i never want to go back to civilisation, but we've run out of food and fresh water and if we don't get out of this deep wilderness before the snow which has just started to blanket the ground gets much heavier we're gonna be in real trouble.

no worries, i'll just...

*CLICK*

*silence*

just the swirling snow, and the sound of my heart hammering in my chest :evil:




or




"hey, councillor... the leisure battery's flat"

listen to your ipod then :roll:

a minor inconvenience, but then nobody had to dig our frozen bodies out of the snow the following spring... swings and roundabouts i suppose ?

your choice at the end of the day.

i believe something similar happened at chernobyl :oops:
 
first up this is not "my system" its the one used by the millions of caravans that clog our roads every summer. the fail safe is the fact that you know the leisure battery is flat and you are flattening your main battery so if you want your belle and sebastien or abba or whatever keep in mind your van wont start if you dance too long, but at least you have the option ,remember one option is better than no option
 
can't see the prob meself......

there is no fail safe if you've left the van in gear and you start it without checking!!

I suppose you 'could' rig up an internal light that is only on without ignition - to act as an idiot light, or a cct that allows a certain battery drain and then cuts off the supply.......?

these old buses for me, are about simplicity..so perhaps a warning sticker do not switch when engine NOT running...will suffice if you think that simple instructions/rules can't be followed???? lol

it'll work for me - thanks for sharing Birchyman...........
 
birchyman said:
first up this is not "my system" its the one used by the millions of caravans that clog our roads every summer. the fail safe is the fact that you know the leisure battery is flat and you are flattening your main battery so if you want your belle and sebastien or abba or whatever keep in mind your van wont start if you dance too long, but at least you have the option ,remember one option is better than no option
i know it's not 'your' system, merely the system you're suggesting, which is why i put the 'your' in inverted commas in my reply :wink:

suggesting that the fail safe is remembering to switch it back across before the battery goes flat is hardly a 'fail safe' is it ? what if you *forget* to flick the switch back across ?

having the two 'systems' completely separate means that you can never accidentally flatten the main battery, unless you leave the headlights on or something in which case there's no hope for you and you deserve to die an icy death in the frozen wilderness, thus eradicating you from the gene pool, darwin awards etc. etc.

(by 'you' i mean a hypothetical camper owner not you personally in case of confusion)

8)
 
im not suggesting flicking the switch is the fail safe to stop you freezing to death ,just that when your leisure battery is flat you would be more aware of your remaining power, lets face it life has no fail safes,
like you said you could leave your lights on .personally ive got a lights on buzzer
ps it sounds like you camp in some scary places
 
dubdubz said:
there is no fail safe if you've left the van in gear and you start it without checking!!

I suppose you 'could' rig up an internal light that is only on without ignition - to act as an idiot light, or a cct that allows a certain battery drain and then cuts off the supply.......?

these old buses for me, are about simplicity..so perhaps a warning sticker do not switch when engine NOT running...will suffice if you think that simple instructions/rules can't be followed????
let me explain, in simple terms, how i see the solution to the OP.

it's a fact (not a matter of opinion) that the 'main' battery does not like being run down until it's flat... in fact do it too many times and you're going to shorten its life expectancy i.e. knacker it. conversely, a 'leisure' battery is delighted to be slowly drained over and over and over again, but hates sending out big bursts of current i.e. what happens when you try and turn the engine over, so it only makes sense to keep the two differing battery types, and the differing roles they play, completely separate.

now, given that the OP mentioned that he had a certain amount of equipment already, it seemed to me that a system basically the same as the one i have in my bus would be ideal.

the 'main' battery does all the jobs that it would do in an ordinary car... cranking the engine, headlights, windscreen wipers and so on. the 'leisure' battery is connected to it via an ignition-controlled relay, which only provides a charge when the engine is running, and effectively isolates them when the vehicle is parked (in my beloved wilderness for instance).

the leisure battery, via a separate fusebox, provides auxiliary power for such campsite essentials as interior lighting, stereo & associated amplification, refrigerator, propex heater, and maybe one day, should the need ever arise, an inverter to power a 240V hairdryer for my luxurious 'mane'.

one wire is run under the bus to the aux. fusebox at the front, and then each aux. 'device' is connected to that.

and that's it... like you say, these things ARE simple; that's the beauty of them.

you drive, and the uprated alternator provides sufficient current to keep both of them fully charged. you park up, the relay is de-energised, and anything you want to do whilst camping; have a cold beer, have a warm cuddle, whatever, is powered by the leisure battery automatically no switching no fiddling with wires or plugs or anything else... no warning lights, buzzers or stickers... is the term *plug and play* in 21st century computer vernacular ?

the capacity of my leisure battery and the output of my alternator means that i've NEVER run out of 'juice' at a show or whilst camping, whilst at the same time i know that however pissed or whatever i get over the week(end) the van is ALWAYS going to start on the key... that's what i mean by 'fail-safe' - nothing we error-prone humans do (within reason - like i said earlier, you can cause havoc with a fusebox and a kit-kat wrapper :x ) is going to endanger the likelihood of the van starting when it's time to roll out.

(now, in the hugely unlikely instance of the leisure battery becoming flat, and us desperately needing to hear just one more belle & sebastian track, or my hair's not quite dry, i know that i can disconnect one spade connector, piggyback it onto one an inch or so away, and use the 'main' battery as a temporary 'liferaft' in much the same way as the apollo 13 crew used the lunar module to limp back to earth... not an ideal situation, but *any port in a storm* as they say. this of course defeats the object of my fail-safe installation, but 'emergencies' have been flagged up by other posters, so this would be a once-in-a-lifetime solution rather than an everyday occurrence :| )

now of course there are more ways to skin a cat, or wire a bus, and i understand that some people are understandably daunted by vehicular or indeed just electricity in general, but i honestly cannot see a way of improving that system... it's easy to install, it's safe and it takes ALL human error out of the equation, which is, to my mind, the definition of a perfect installation ?

irrelevant, seeing as it never leaves the garage, but that's me in a nutshell :roll:
 
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