End float

[Bigbear]

Morning all, this is a follow on thread from my previous post about my flywheel seal, I'm exploring possibilities as to what my issues are.

When measuring end float should you remove the flywheel first, when my engine is built up or reinstalled the float is minimal but when the flywheel is removed the movement along the crank seems quite a lot, to the point where it clunks back and forth by hand. Which of the two scenarios do you take you measurements from? I've always been under the impression that it's taken when engine in situ (seen people check with the engine fitted by moving the crank pulley by hand)

If it's the latter option, does anyone have an engine for sale?

Brett

 

[Raggles]

End float is measured with the Flywheel mounted. The float is set using the shims which sit behind the flywheel and are sandwiched when the flywheel is torqued up. Excessive play is indicated by movement beyond the specified tolerance despite the shims being in place indicating issues with the bearings et al.

 

[Bigbear]

So should I reset the end float considering I've now fitted a new flywheel?

 

[Raggles]

Others on here will be able to answer this better. Unless excessive (spun bearing), I am not aware of end play overly effecting the oil seal.

Was the end play with the original flywheel within tolerance? (If not you may have greater issues than a leaking oil seal) Is the current endplay with the new flywheel in tolerance? If the original flywheel was within tolerance and the new not then you should definitely re-set. If original end play was out then further investigation will be needed ... simply resetting might be a quick fix but will mask a more serious issue.

Have you tried re-fitting the old flywheel with a new oil seal? If the leak was minor prior to the change it should tell you if it is the flywheel that is at fault or something within the fitting process (or oil from another source - I am assuming that the oil cooler seals are good?)

 

[Bigbear]

I'll check all the tolerances on both flywheels when the engine is out again, I'm going to try refitting the old flywheel after putting a speedi sleeve on and see if that helps at all. I naturally assumed that replacing a flywheel would be a case of removing the old and fitting the new one?

 

[Dirty Harry]

Every other flywheel needs to be shimmed out again!
If you have a flywheel that is whitin spec you don't need a speedy sleeve it's a total waist of money and effort.
Show us a pic of the flywheel nose where the seal runs, from both of your flywheels.

I'll check all the tolerances on both flywheels when the engine is out again, I'm going to try refitting the old flywheel after putting a speedi sleeve on and see if that helps at all. I naturally assumed that replacing a flywheel would be a case of removing the old and fitting the new one?

 

[Bigbear]

I'll get the engine out on Saturday and check both flywheels out before deciding which of the two to go with, ill also pick up some shims this week incase the new flywheel needs shimming , and I'll go with your advice Harry and get a new seal from VW.

 

[Bigbear]

Well I just called vw to order a new crankshaft seal and they are showing as discontinued and none in stock in the country!

 

[Dirty Harry]

Bummer!

 

[K@rlos]

You can get a fly wheel seal from gsf, cool air, machine 7 or vw heritage. Endfloat MUST be set with flywheel fitted, if you change the flywheel the end float will change and possibly need adjusting. If your struggling to work it out get help from an experienced vw person otherwise you could end up with a ruined engine.

 

[Bigbear]

Yeah I was just trying to track down a genuine vw one only to find they no longer exist, I'll grab another new one from gsf. Now I understand that the new flywheel will need shimming I must get stand half a chance. So this weekend I plan to have this van running without leaks once and for all!! So is the following procedure right
1. Remove shims
2. Refit and torque up flywheel
3. Measure end float
4. Work out what size shims to re fit in order to achieve between 0.09-0.15mm
5. Remove flywheel, re fit shims and new seal refit flywheel and torque up.
6. Check float again to ensure within tolerance.
7.lob engine back in and pray.

 

[Bigbear]

As for experienced vw help, my father in law is quite good with aircooled engines, he had a t2 aswell as a beetle and also built two trikes. He's offering a helping hand this weekend, but he wouldn't have the knowledge he does if he didn't get stuck in himself all those years ago. I like to get my hands dirty whilst learning for myself, you'll never know you can't do something until you try! Besides, I could end up with a new engine if it all goes **** up! Every cloud and all that!!

Wish me luck.

 

[Raggles]

Yeah I was just trying to track down a genuine vw one only to find they no longer exist, I'll grab another new one from gsf. Now I understand that the new flywheel will need shimming I must get stand half a chance. So this weekend I plan to have this van running without leaks once and for all!! So is the following procedure right
1. Remove shims
2. Refit and torque up flywheel ... remember make sure seal is left out at this point to avoid damaging it. Doesn't need full torque to measure end play, just snug down good and tight
3. Measure end float
4. Work out what size shims to re fit in order to achieve between 0.09-0.15mm
5. Remove flywheel, re fit shims and new seal refit flywheel and torque up.
6. Check float again to ensure within tolerance.
7.lob engine back in and pray.

 

[Bigbear]