Engine Seized?????? HELP!!!!!!!!!!

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marcher

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Just been out for a quick drive today and had the igniton light and the oil light come on :cry: :cry: :cry: only went about 400 yards into a lay-by (only safe place to stop)

Noticed that the oil is pi**ing out of the ext oil filter :cry: :cry: :cry:

Tried to turn the engine over by hand and its solid :cry: :cry: AA tow home.

Q, Could anything be done with the lump or is it a "bin and start again" job????
(it only came of the rolling road last week, with 78 bhp)

GUTTED

help me please :cry: :cry:
 
Difficult one, you will only know once its stripped, worst case is, shells bearing & crank are scored, barrels and piston rings shot, also gudgeon pins worn, heads warped.

Best case its just a set of barrels and pistons.

If it were me I would try and turn it over by hand with a spanner on the pulley, plugs out. If it turns over roll it over a few times by hand see what sort of play or noises you get. If it seems ok. Fill with fresh oil and try and get it running, face it your not going to do any more harm, and you might find its not as bad as you thought.
Or take the other route which is engine out take heads off look at condition of push rods and rockers, then barrels off and see it the piston rings are broken barrels scored, ring groves in piston too wide then check end float.
IMO if its much more than barrels and pistons its worth costing up recon units, by the time you spend £120 pistons and barrels, £300 heads, crank regrind and polish £30 per journal, your almost into complete recon engine territory.
 
I think personaly its more likely to have siezed main bearings ,but its allways worth a try as above.dont want to be gloomy but i wouldant hold my breath on it being ok :roll:
 
Is there any oil left in it? I would do this [ as it happened to me ]

drain oil and inspect - you may find something in the oil or sump that gives you a clue to what has broken.
remove plugs [try and rotate as suggested BY HAND ] then remove rocker gear and again try and rotate by hand.

If it's still stuck and feels real tight [ oh btw try both directions although if it is major seized then you'll undo the crank pulley bolt ]

I also tried removing the fan belt too, I've heard of fans becoming wedged....

If you get here and it's still stuck fast then I suggest engine out.

Mine did this and I was 30 mins doing the above and then decided it was out and strip...2 hours later it was obvious what mine was.....conrod nut had come loose and thankfully as I shut off so very quickly there was only a bent rod and minor scarring. New bearings, a 2nd hand crank and rods assembly, flush through and built up.

Did it make a massive noise? If not then possibly has seized on the mains - possibly through oil starvation something to look out for......take pics as people who know can help suggest the cause and also maybe say if components are worth checking or complete scrap.

It does depend how much damage it has caused in seizing, it may have spun the main - ripped the dowel out etc or just minor failed and an align bore, crank check and polish.....I was possibly very very lucky as mine went at almost idle and I shut it off within seconds.......

where are you in the world?
 
Cheers chaps for the help.

It didnt make any noise, just lights and then nothing :cry: :cry:

dubdubz, I'm going to check the oil/remove plugs/try and turn both ways tomorrow.

Im in kent
 
were you in gear or did you coast?

a severe seize in gear will lock or at least try and lock the rear wheels, it may be a heat seize on the mains due to loss of oil pressure for some reason...

I think if nothing is obvious prior to 'out and strip' stage - I'd be inclined to strip it down anyway.....as you really need to know what's going on in there.

Have you split a case before at all [apols to ask.....]

an option depending on what you find may be short block and all your top end transfer across??

here's hoping.... :)
 
bit the bullet...split the case :shock: :shock:

Found this

P1030686.jpg

P1030687.jpg

P1030688.jpg


Im not an expert but, i think its only a heat seize (fingers crossed) Going to get the crank checked in the morning.

does it look bad???
 
whats the case look like - hopefully the bearing took the heat [sorry :lol: ] and the case is ok....

do us a pic of the crank journals and bearing saddles as close as you can and as clear..........
 
marcher said:
hopefully these will help.

P1030691.jpg


At the bottom of the speedo drive it looks like the case is cracked?

Hoping not.
Hope its a cheap easy repair.

78 hp, what was the spec of the engine?

Rich
 
cranks naddgered ,even with a regrind not sure if reliable due to heat damage.and looks like bearing shuffle on that one pic(spots on case where bearing sits.get a machine shop /engine reconditioner to have a look.
 
67panel said:
cranks naddgered ,even with a regrind not sure if reliable due to heat damage.and looks like bearing shuffle on that one pic(spots on case where bearing sits.get a machine shop /engine reconditioner to have a look.


and looks like bearing shuffle on that one pic(spots on case where bearing sits.get a machine shop /engine reconditioner to have a look.[/quote]

Which area/ photos should i be looking at fella??
 
Hoosier said:
marcher said:
hopefully these will help.

P1030691.jpg


At the bottom of the speedo drive it looks like the case is cracked?

Hoping not.
Hope its a cheap easy repair.

78 hp, what was the spec of the engine?

Rich

Is that repairable??? or am i looking at a new case/engine??
 
If that is a crack and the crank is knackerd youl need to start again im afraid :(
I paid out for a crack in my block (about an inch) and it cost me 180 pounds.

Sorry mate :cry:
 
Well spent over an 1 hour at the machine shop today.

Cranks not fook :D :D only going to need a grind and polish :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D

the case is not fook either :D :D :D the mark in by the speedo drive is only a manufacting mark and not a crack!!!!

Happy days :D :D :D
 
apols - asked for pics and then vanished :lol:

great news - the saddles do indeed look ok to me , and the crank is quite durable so after a grind and polish it'll be better than it was!

good luck with the rebuild!

D
 
marcher said:
Well spent over an 1 hour at the machine shop today.

the mark in by the speedo drive is only a manufacting mark and not a crack!!!!

Happy days :D :D :D

that's the distributor drive gear not the speedo drive
 
I have a stripped single port thats not to bad if you need to buy any bits, new oil pump, new barrels and pistons etc :mrgreen:
 

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