Few questions for the expert :)

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Ridingmac

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First on to intro. My names Matt. Just got my 1970 Westy camper yesterday. Been a mechanic for 10 years but never worked on Westy or any vw so it's a huge learning experience.

Starting a rebuild on my 1600cc in my 1970 and I have a few questions of meaby many to come lollll.

1: thinking of doing a fuel pump conversion from mechanic to electric. Planning big long trips next year and always planning on worst case scenario. Electric pumps are easier to come by then mechanic. So the first question is this. How many psi does the system need??? I see alot of 4 psi pumps on the sites.

2: should I add fuel pressure regulator even if I have a pump of proper output??
3:i have found a complete engine rebus kit but says for 1600cc bug engines. Found it at Cip1.com. Will it fit my engine???.

4: when it says 1600cc fits all beetle style engines. Is my Westy a beetle style engine?.

Thanks alot in advance. :mrgreen::p:mrgreen:
 
Id say get a decent facet eletric fuel pump and regulator, much better than running a weaker pump at 100% all the time to keep up the pressure, the engine in yours is an"upright" or "type1" engine, which is the same essentially as a beetle engine ( sime actual beetle engines dont have the bolt holes for the "mustache bar" that supports the engine, but they are identical piston and barrel wise bearings etc

hope this helps

Sam
 
This is my engine
484eb796b37490d065dc2d9c07f2c093.jpg
 
I always use the cb performance rotary pump (3.5psi) for customers installs... I've got one on my own van and I've clocked a lot of miles/hours on it with no problems...

The cheap cube shape facet pumps, while are ok, they are not waterproof... So if you're doing an under the tank install, then don't expect them to last forever!!
 
No need as it's got a regulated output (3.5psi)

As a side note, this was quite happily running twin 44 webers on my 2270cc motor with circa 150bhp
 
If your after reliability then it would be better to keep the mechanical pump and carry a spare.

Cheaper and simpler.
 
Hmmmm..... True.... Thanks I might do just that. So those mechanical pump are. Very reliable :)
 
Just to throw another one out there, I use a Huco rotary pump, this is a suction one so needs to be placed at the carb end. Output is rated at 2 1/2 PSI so ideal for the Dellortos I have fitted. No regulator needed and quiet operation. If you shop around you can get them for £50. Eurocarb do them and will price match if you can find another online reference.
Always wire in series to an inertia cutoff switch to kill the pump in case if an accident. I also fitted a fuel cut off solenoid at the same time.

Your engine is a type1 with a van specific crank case. The internals/heads, barrels and Pistons from the equiv beetle motor will fit. Check the engine codes to be sure and quite these when ordering.


Sent from my GX64 SatCom phone using Tapatalk
 
Ridingmac said:
Were is usually the tag kn the engine for the engine code?

If it's an original engine, then it's normally stamped on top of the engine case just under the alternator/dynamo stand like below:

318832.jpg


However, aftermarket engine cases don't have them.
 
Paul Weeding said:
No need as it's got a regulated output (3.5psi)

As a side note, this was quite happily running twin 44 webers on my 2270cc motor with circa 150bhp

https://www.vwheritage.com/shop/AC1273193/rotary-fuel-pump-3-5psi-30gal-hr-12v/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

yes if going electric thats the way i would go!

But I agree with Tricky its actually easier and safer to go stock, more likely to find a replacement than a specific PSI elecy pump!
 
Ok. Then I'll do this. I'll install a brand new mecanic pump. And keep the old (wich still works flawlessly) as a spare.
 

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