fly wheel shims

[thejinx]

I have stripped my engine and replaced the piston rings plus many of the oil seals. I have put the engine back together and have now replaced the flywheel and clutch plate and i have torqued it to the correct settings a la Haines Manual. having a chat with a mate and he says there should have been shims in the area. As far as i remember i removed the clutch plate and fly wheel took out the crank shaft oil seal replaced it then put the fly wheel and clutch plate back in. Dont remember removing any shims although it was a month or two inbetween removal and refitting. Any ideas?

 

[BJ1]

there MUST be 3 shims behind the flywheel to set the end-float at around 4 thou. Don't even think of running the engine without them - it will die very quickly.

Before you go any further beg, borrow, steal or buy Tom Wilson's book on rebuilding aircooled VW engines. Read the whole thing and then go back to building your engine.

 

[thejinx]

anyone have a blown up scematic of the area?

 

[dubdubz]

try these

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=6304609" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

http://www.nzveedubnuts.com/viewtopic.php?f=20&t=6070" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=6304609" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

some good pics in there BTW I haven't checked the content I just did Google Images search for VW flywheel shim pack!

 

[thejinx]

ok, what size shims should i put in. I dont have any form of measuring device and the shims come in different sizes 0.32 and 0.25 i think. should i just go for 3 x 0.25? :?:

 

[sparkywig]

ok, what size shims should i put in. I dont have any form of measuring device and the shims come in different sizes 0.32 and 0.25 i think. should i just go for 3 x 0.25? :?:

You need to measure the end float to get it to the 4 thou tolerance.
Otherwise you'll be stripping it down again fairly quickly.

 

[schneeky]

You cannot guess what size shims you need. You need to measure and measure accurately. If the engine is going in a van then i would not set the endfloat any less than 6/7 thou due to extra load that the engine is being put under.


Regards...Steve

 

[68_early_bay]

:mrgreen: £20 for a dial and stand cheaper than having to rebuild :mrgreen:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Magnetic-DTI-Stand-and-Analogue-Metric-Dial-Gauge-NEW-/120812806949?pt=UK_Measuring_Tools_Levels&hash=item1c21012325" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

 

[thejinx]

looked at that and will decide soon. I am confused though, i was under the impression the shims went behind the crankshaft oil seal but looking at pictures in Bentley, keeping your volkswagon alive et al i see shims going in after the oil seal. Any ideas

 

[68_early_bay]

Just youtubed this vid should help

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FzH4TDhrYgo&feature=youtube_gdata_player" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

 

[thejinx]

That explains it, brilliant cheers.

 

[superfunkyfresh]

that video is awesome!! Big fan of when people do shit like that!

 

[BJ1]

You cannot guess what size shims you need. You need to measure and measure accurately. If the engine is going in a van then i would not set the endfloat any less than 6/7 thou due to extra load that the engine is being put under.


Regards...Steve

Sorry to disagree, but on a van you need to set the end float to between 4 and 5 thou. Any more and you risk the front main bearing being pounded by the shaft. The extra load from the heavy van gives more pounding force (approx twice that of a beetle) so you need just enough float to let the oil get in and no more. In practice the end float increases by around one or two thou during the run in period, so setting it at 6-7 thou would mean it would be around 9 thou within say 1000 miles.

 

[schneeky]

You cannot guess what size shims you need. You need to measure and measure accurately. If the engine is going in a van then i would not set the endfloat any less than 6/7 thou due to extra load that the engine is being put under.


Regards...Steve

Sorry to disagree, but on a van you need to set the end float to between 4 and 5 thou. Any more and you risk the front main bearing being pounded by the shaft. The extra load from the heavy van gives more pounding force (approx twice that of a beetle) so you need just enough float to let the oil get in and no more. In practice the end float increases by around one or two thou during the run in period, so setting it at 6-7 thou would mean it would be around 9 thou within say 1000 miles.

Your quite entitled to disagree I used to set my van engines to 4/5thou all the time but when steel backed bearings became harder to get hold of (ie Mahle/KS) the lightweight bearings would expand just that little bit more causing the crank to seize on the front main.

I spoke to an engine builder (who is probably the most highly regarded builder in the UK ) after this happened twice in quick succession. He asked what bearings i was using etc etc and advised that the endfloat should be set no less than 6thou. This info was also backed up by another 'known' longstanding VW mechanic who i had a conversation with about endfloat tolerances using Mahle/KS main bearings.

Since then i have never had any problems with seizures or have i had to 'reset' the endfloat on any engines after the running in period.

Regards...Steve