ICING on manifold and carb HELP

[Tintop]

With the recent cold weather my top of manifold and carb are starting to ice up.

Help how can i stop this happening? (and yes i still want to drive it).

I have a 1584 SP 30PICT with a K&N cone.

Pre-heater pipes on base of manifold.

 

[Harlequin]

One of these will help
http://www.bigboyztoys.co.uk/index.php
can be purchased from other suppliers
Also after market air filters makes it worse

 

[Araon]

An IMDU i think your trying to link to....Inlet Manifold De-icing Unit.

Or a simple bit of lagging, exhaust wrap something like that....

 

[Tofufi]

Or you could just fit the original air filter, hey presto, no carb icing. Woop.

 

[Haveacamper]

i used to get the same in my type 4 2l twin 34 stock carbs. PO had put K&N cone filters and caused me to get carb icing.

i was advised to run the camper on the drive for 5 mins, then turn off ignition for at least 1 min and then fire her up and start driving.

this allows the heat from the head to warm up enough, and when you turn off ignition, the heat is conducted up through the manifolds. if you dont turn off the ignition then the fuel/air is still being atomosied and therefore dropping the temperature.

this helped with my icing problem and i dont think i had the preheat pipes

 

[ProfessorWheeto]

A stock air filter will improve performance, MPG and cure the carb icing.
I haven't read a single good thing about IMDUs.

 

[Tintop]

Cheers all.

I will look at either a standard air intake or rigging some king of heat flow to the manifold.

Anyone got a standard air filter kicking around they are willing to part with?

 

[dropgates]

My guess is that your heat riser tubes on your intake manifold are clogged with carbon. This tends to happen through years of use. Heat from the muffler travels up the tubes to help warm your carb and help prevent an icing situation where the intake and the carb meets.
Your options? Find a new intake manifold that isn't clogged (you will be able to blow clearly through the little feet) or clear it with an oxy torch, hitting the riser tube with a hammer to knock out the old carbon...blow out with high compressed air afterwards.. The 2nd option is what I tenderly refer to as "the bloody knuckler". Find an old clutch cable and cut it about 1 foot from the hex (rear) end. Put in into a drill and insert it in the heater tube, using the REVERSE mode so the cable won't unwind.
The heat method seems to work better, is less dangerous and is more fun.