Oil cooling.

[K@rlos]

It not running too hot because I drive deliberately slower, but I want to drive faster.

So far I have been using the "ignorance is bliss" tactic. Sometimes the Dip stick is too hot to touch, not very scientific but as road side test it works. My distributor temperature gauge only goes to 100 deg C and sadly its pinned to the max on long journeys. I will work on getting better temperature readings.

The reason I was asking all these questions is because I will have some time over the winter to make some changes. I am finding out what works and what does not so I can make plans. Yours is the third full flow configuration in this thread, looks tidy and trouble free.

I assume the machine shop work was done before the motor was fully assembled?

Yeah it was all done when I brought the crankcase from CB performance.

What gearbox and ratios do you have? What speed and rpm are you doing on the motorway? Heat is a side effect of rpm. An external cooler isn’t really going to help if your rinsing along at 4500rpm for extended periods of time, you’ll end up cooking the engine regardless. The optimum engine speed for cooling is 3500rpm, above that and the fan becomes inefficient.

 

[gagvanman]

If you are still having over heating issues, I went through the same thing with my engine which is a very similar spec to yours. I fitted a larger external oil cooler which made no difference. Eventually I resolved the issue by setting the timing to 28 deg at full advance (don't forget to blank off the advance and balance tubes at the carbs) you may have to play with this setting as each engine is different. Carefully balance the carbs mixture and idle using a snail gauge. I haven't had any over heating issues since, even in the hot weather we have had recently.

 

[la_bigmac]

If you are still having over heating issues, I went through the same thing with my engine which is a very similar spec to yours. I fitted a larger external oil cooler which made no difference. Eventually I resolved the issue by setting the timing to 28 deg at full advance (don't forget to blank off the advance and balance tubes at the carbs) you may have to play with this setting as each engine is different. Carefully balance the carbs mixture and idle using a snail gauge. I haven't had any over heating issues since, even in the hot weather we have had recently.

Yeah it was all done when I brought the crankcase from CB performance.

What gearbox and ratios do you have? What speed and rpm are you doing on the motorway? Heat is a side effect of rpm. An external cooler isn’t really going to help if your rinsing along at 4500rpm for extended periods of time, you’ll end up cooking the engine regardless. The optimum engine speed for cooling is 3500rpm, above that and the fan becomes inefficient.

Its a standard Bus gear box, I am considering a Freeway Flyer. Typically I sit at about 3.5K RPM. If its a cool / cold day I will push it to 4K, but not much beyond that and if I do its not for long.

From everything I have learnt here, full flow is preferred, but retro fitting / drilling tapping etc is costly, painful and might not help that much. Should be done at engine build time. I have not put that many miles on this engine (7000 ish) so stripping down to get the case machined is not an attractive option. I will factor it in for a future engine build I dream about from time to time..

I am going to work on getting the tinware fitting better, its not bad, but could be better. I will wrap the exhaust and fit Ears on long hot journeys.

I am going to try and get some better temperature readings and while I had the carbs setup on a rolling road its been a few years so that could be worth revisiting. I did not have the 123 tune when I had that done (fake 009 came with the engine). I have checked the balance and that seems good, I am going to see if I can lean it out a little, the plugs black up quickly on E10, less so on the good stuff but its probably a little rich.

 

[K@rlos]

A gearbox with better ratios would be a wise move if you want to increase cruising speed. It will allow you to cruise at a higher speed at the same rpm. My bus has a built 091 box with a 4.57 ring & pinion and .77 4th, it does 75mph @ 3500rpm.

Yes proper full flow is not a ‘bolt on’ modification, it’s extremely beneficial but a lot of work and money to do correctly.

Having tinware which fits nicely, no gaps or holes etc in the engine bay seals and getting the engine tuned properly are the biggest steps in having a happy engine running at the correct temp. My 2276 is basically a race motor which has been calmed down a bit and that runs perfectly in a bus. Max 195f oil temp durning that mad heat wave we had the other week.

 

[Stuartk]

A gearbox with better ratios would be a wise move if you want to increase cruising speed. It will allow you to cruise at a higher speed at the same rpm. My bus has a built 091 box with a 4.57 ring & pinion and .77 4th, it does 75mph @ 3500rpm.

Yes proper full flow is not a ‘bolt on’ modification, it’s extremely beneficial but a lot of work and money to do correctly.

Having tinware which fits nicely, no gaps or holes etc in the engine bay seals and getting the engine tuned properly are the biggest steps in having a happy engine running at the correct temp. My 2276 is basically a race motor which has been calmed down a bit and that runs perfectly in a bus. Max 195f oil temp durning that mad heat wave we had the other week.

Hi guys , I have a 1776cc on twin its. I run a full flow system and even during the heat wave I have found my engine temp not rising above 90c. I do use earz on my van when extremely hot. I did have slightly too small tyres on the back and have been sitting on the motorway at 4 to 4500rpm. For hours on end. Noting when the oil cooler fan comes on. I only made minor adjustments to my tin wear by the pulley area and sealed around the oil pipe with a large rubber grommet.

 

[la_bigmac]

Hi guys , I have a 1776cc on twin its. I run a full flow system and even during the heat wave I have found my engine temp not rising above 90c. I do use earz on my van when extremely hot. I did have slightly too small tyres on the back and have been sitting on the motorway at 4 to 4500rpm. For hours on end. Noting when the oil cooler fan comes on. I only made minor adjustments to my tin wear by the pulley area and sealed around the oil pipe with a large rubber grommet.

Thanks for contributing, couple of questions. Standard gear box or FwF? What are you using to measure your oil temperature?

Mat

 

[Stuartk]

Hi guys , I have a 1776cc on twin its. I run a full flow system and even during the heat wave I have found my engine temp not rising above 90c. I do use earz on my van when extremely hot. I did have slightly too small tyres on the back and have been sitting on the motorway at 4 to 4500rpm. For hours on end. Noting when the oil cooler fan comes on. I only made minor adjustments to my tin wear by the pulley area and sealed around the oil pipe with a large rubber grommet.

Thanks for contributing, couple of questions. Standard gear box or FwF? What are you using to measure your oil temperature?

Mat

Standard gearbox , VDO gauge attached to a sensor in the oil drain plug

 

[Stuartk]

Thanks for contributing, couple of questions. Standard gear box or FwF? What are you using to measure your oil temperature?

Mat

Also I use Driven Oil which has a high zinc content

 

[V.R.M.]

Apologies if its been mentioned already but do you have the flaps in the fanhousing still and are they working correctly? They direct flow over the heads to help the cooling and also speed warm up which is important particularly in winter. You mentioned not having blocked the fanhousing outlets to the heat exchangers - that will make a big difference if you close them off too.
Have you got room for a deep sump? Extra oil will help and they kind of stuck down in the airflow more which possibly has a benefit
I have a 1956cc in my Westy bay which has full flow with a filter but not an oil cooler it's actually quite high compression because I messed up my maths doing the heads but it never gets hot even at speed.

 

[K@rlos]

Apologies if its been mentioned already but do you have the flaps in the fanhousing still and are they working correctly? They direct flow over the heads to help the cooling and also speed warm up which is important particularly in winter. You mentioned not having blocked the fanhousing outlets to the heat exchangers - that will make a big difference if you close them off too.
Have you got room for a deep sump? Extra oil will help and they kind of stuck down in the airflow more which possibly has a benefit
I have a 1956cc in my Westy bay which has full flow with a filter but not an oil cooler it's actually quite high compression because I messed up my maths doing the heads but it never gets hot even at speed.

A deep sump doesn’t have any noticeable effect on oil temp, the oil will just take a bit longer to reach the temp. They are actually meant to be used to move the oil level out of the crank case to prevent the oil getting whipped up and airated by the rotating assembly at high rpm.

 

[K@rlos]

View attachment 3189

Standard gearbox , VDO gauge attached to a sensor in the oil drain plug

View attachment 3189

Standard gearbox , VDO gauge attached to a sensor in the oil drain plug

It’s not just the oil temp that’s affected, your oil was being kept cool by the cooler and it’s fan. The heads and barrels that would have been suffering a bit at that rpm.