Lowering advice wanted, please!

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sharman

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Looking into aspects of lowering my 71 Westy. Torn between dropped spindles and lowered beam (both seem about same price). My beam is ok, but for similar price to spindles, it may be better value to change and have a brand spanker. Not after anything too low, or narrowed and must still have suspension! Just wondered what people had and who by, any recommendations appreciated.
 
Hi,

I've got a '71 Westy with an adjustable beam up front... It's not slammed by any stretch of the imagination... The ride though is very harsh, even cats eyes hurt!

My plan is to raise it back up on the beam adjusters and get dropped spindles fitted...

This might help your decision!!

Also, round the back I've got some T2D (other makes are available!!) adjustable spring plates set in the stock position, then lowered the bus using the adjustment.... Thus is definitely the way to go, lots of nice suspension and yet a cool stance too!
 
For the best ride we always go for:
FRONT
Stock Beam
Dropped Spindles
Coil Over Dampers
REAR
Horseshoe Plates

Gives you the full suspension movement your bus has at stock height but sits 3.5 - 4" lower.............Result
 
Just what Graham said ^^^^ unless you want to go mental with it, as it is quite intoxicating this lowering malarky. Mine is how ^^^^ but with the addition of lower profiles on the front as well, works pretty damn good and don`t shake your fillings out and leaves your guts where they is spossed to be. :mrgreen:

Ozziedog,,,,,,,,,,,,, That`s how I got started ^^ !! :lol: ;) :lol:
 
drop spindles from transporterhaus are around 450 exchange, horseshoes from a guy on here (loweredlight) for 110 delivered, then a days labour on top

http://transporterhaus.de/index.php?option=com_content&task=blogsection&id=5&Itemid=65" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
 
Is it an easy enough DIY job (dropped spindles) to do yourself and is there a tech thread? Also, are rear horseshoes the same as adjustable plates (as per slamwerks)?
 
Dropped spindles are a fairly easy job to be fair, just be a bit methodical when removing and re-installing......theres instructions on transporter haus website and plenty of advice to be given here.

Horseshoe plates are a fixed drop of about 3.25'' i believe, (im yet to fit mine).....

give it a go :D
 
sharman said:
Is it an easy enough DIY job (dropped spindles) to do yourself and is there a tech thread? Also, are rear horseshoes the same as adjustable plates (as per slamwerks)?

Adjustable plates are the better option. Transporterhaus was doing a special introductory offer on these when purchased with their dropped spindles. Worth a look...

Jim
 
sharman said:
Is it an easy enough DIY job (dropped spindles) to do yourself and is there a tech thread? Also, are rear horseshoes the same as adjustable plates (as per slamwerks)?

Fitting takes us about 4 - 5 hours depending on how seized the old parts are. Last one we did took 1 hour to get the shocks off :shock:

Guide to fitting here http://transporterhaus.de/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=103&Itemid=65" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Easily done on your drive with basic tools (unlike beam adjusters) or if you think it's above your technical skills there's a good few shops that have experience in fitting the drop spindles and dialing the bus in. See our distributors here http://transporterhaus.de/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=105&Itemid=147" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; who have experience fitting them and setting the bus up to ride right.
 
Could be a stupid question but do dropped spindles push the wheels out at all? Not sure why they would but just thought I'd check.
 
jsyboy75 said:
Could be a stupid question but do dropped spindles push the wheels out at all? Not sure why they would but just thought I'd check.

No track remains as standard,
 
Graham L said:
jsyboy75 said:
Could be a stupid question but do dropped spindles push the wheels out at all? Not sure why they would but just thought I'd check.

No track remains as standard,


WagenWest spindles increase the track by 10mm either side, there is also EZ Rider kits available from Red9 Design for £400, this drops the front up to 6", or the wishbone front susspension kit also from Red9 that i roll with coupled with a rack & pinion steering settup for ultimate ride/adjustability for a whole lot more........

Just
 
I've gone for the dropped spindles and horse shoe plate method, ride is still good. One thing I will say though is you might need to reduce the rolling width on your tyres if you've still got standard ones. I'm still running 185 x 75 14" on the front and it rubs a little bit, till tomorrow morning anyway. Worth factoring into any costs though
 
I've got a Fosky adjuster welded into the top tube of a stock beam with T2D slam shocks. It's welded in futher round than normal too to get abit lower, 6 inches lower at the front I believe and a 1 outer spline twist at the back. It rides like a bag of shit but looks good :D :lol: Was done on a budget until I can afford a Slamwerkes king 'n' link pin beam. Adjusters are good if you want a mild lowering job and decent ride, or you just have the stock beam cut and turned.
 
Thanks for the feedback :) Looked at my camper today and took some measurements. The tyre size is 185/65x15 on BRM rims. Going by the roof gutter, the front sits approx 3.5" higher than the rear. So I'm thinking that fitting front dropped spindles on standard beam and leaving the rear standard will give a even and level look. I've been told my beam is good, so don't really need to change. Personally, I'm not a big fan of the narrowed beam look and don't know the difference between the types of beams. The gap between top of front tyre and bodywork is approx 5" and the top of rear tyre sits above bodywork by approx 2", but the sidewall is pretty damn close.
If I do lower the rear, can I just fit adjusters or horseshoe and have done, or is there anything else I need? Would replace all dampers as precaution any way.
Also, considering having the underside sand blasted to remove old waxoyl and painted/powder coated. Anyone done this and any idea of costs??
 
I know you're all saying that dropped spindles is easy to fit and in many respects I agree, but getting the top trailing arms off was an absolute pig of a job! I don't have an adjustable beam so couldn't dial the tension down and had to steel bar + scaff pole + father on the end to raise the buggers as I smacked them with a lump hammer.

Like I said, pretty straightforward job, but not easy ;)
 
sharman said:
Thanks for the feedback :) Looked at my camper today and took some measurements. The tyre size is 185/65x15 on BRM rims. Going by the roof gutter, the front sits approx 3.5" higher than the rear. So I'm thinking that fitting front dropped spindles on standard beam and leaving the rear standard will give a even and level look. I've been told my beam is good, so don't really need to change.

If I do lower the rear, can I just fit adjusters or horseshoe and have done, or is there anything else I need? Would replace all dampers as precaution any way.
Also, considering having the underside sand blasted to remove old waxoyl and painted/powder coated. Anyone done this and any idea of costs??

We lowered a 68 poptop westy in the shop last week. Old age had made her sag at the rear end too :lol: 185 65 15 on the rear and 175 65 15 on the front running brms with no tyre rub. 1 spline drop on the back and drop spindles on the front levelled out the ride nicely.

I wouldn't recommend blasting the underside of your bus unless you're blasting the whole shell for a resto, just a way of letting the rust get in to the small places and unless you take every component off the media gets everywhere and ruins everything.
 

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