oil temp?

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streetboy

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I have got to do the mandatory 500 miles running in before the first oil change, and this will be an ideal time to fit a vdo oil temp guage and sump type sender unit.
Can anyone tell me what reading the gauge should give under normal use and sustained motorway driving?

At least it will give me an idea of how hot the engine is running.

Thanks in advance :D
 
I remembered that my bus came with a vdo oil gauge fixed into the blanking plate on the dash. I had a rumage around in the shed and found it.
It has three terminals on the back and I'm not sure how to wire it up :? M7 do a bundle kit and they say it is a "single wire from the sender to the guage" for it to work?

oilguage002.jpg

oilguage001.jpg
 
One to earth, one to sender & one for the backlight.

As for temps it depends on your sender location, its accuracy and what temp you believe to be too hot.
I think these type of gauges are better used to monitor typical values - so you drive it around for a bit & you see that 180 is the norm & it goes up to 210 on a long hill - if you see it going to 210+ on the flat you might start to question what is different - might be a headwind or extra weight or that roof rack you put on or the car behind might have his screen covered in your oil :lol:

Does that make sense?

One thing I would do is to try and see how accurate the sender is with boiling water and a known accurate thermometer, check it though the range as it cools as I know mine was ok around boiling but reads 5-10 degrees over as it cools.
 
thanks Loxy ;) my electrical symbal knowledge is a little sketchy I'm afraid :( bottom tag in the pic is obviously positive, so does the sender wire fit to this? the top tag appears to have a 'G' next to it, is this ground/neg/earth and the left tag has an upside down 'T' is that for the backlight?

Like I said i'm not to bad on wiring but this ones foxed me :lol:
 
streetboy said:
thanks Loxy ;) my electrical symbal knowledge is a little sketchy I'm afraid :( bottom tag in the pic is obviously positive, so does the sender wire fit to this? the top tag appears to have a 'G' next to it, is this ground/neg/earth and the left tag has an upside down 'T' is that for the backlight?

Like I said i'm not to bad on wiring but this ones foxed me :lol:

Looking a bit closer this time :oops: - G is the sender, upside down T is earth and + is switched live, looks like your backlight is probably supposed to go in the hole at the top (but is missing).
 
As per Loxy above.....

a typical temp depends on so many variables that it is virtually impossible to state for sure, it is as mentioned above a matter of getting used to its temp range and making a note of any sudden rises as this will hint at cooling issues and allow you to calm her down and pull over at a convienient place to delve further.....

Personally I wouldnt bother
 
Araon said:
Personally I wouldnt bother

I rarely get time to look at the road I've got so many gauges :lol:
Oil temp & pressure, cyl head temp, rev counter (with shift light), and my latest toy digital AFR meter with datalogging ;)

Me, Paranoid?

What you laughing at?????
 
Now temp data loggers would be a better idea that way you can sit at home and chart the temps and note patterns of events trends etc and it will show any deviations hinting at trouble ahead...

I did look at this but the cost was a bit off putting
 
I rarely get time to look at the road I've got so many gauges
Oil temp & pressure, cyl head temp, rev counter (with shift light), and my latest toy digital AFR meter with datalogging

ye gads! the boy's a 'technofreak' :lol:

Well done Loxy, at least I know what goes where now ;) It does have a bulb holder I have to dig out.

Areon, I think I'd rather have some indication of whats going on back there than not. As you say its getting used to the gauge and then guaging it on that. At present, after tinkering with my engine change, the old hand over the end of the exhaust gives a pretty good idea. Thankfully its not blowing really hot and certainly a lot cooler than the old engine.
 
Now temp data loggers would be a better idea that way you can sit at home and chart the temps and note patterns of events trends etc and it will show any deviations hinting at trouble ahead...

I did look at this but the cost was a bit off putting

The boys got more money than sense ;)
 
From GeneBerg.com.

Why We Don't Sell Gauges.

I hear daily of engines being destroyed by people relying on gauges. I have run hundreds of accuracy tests on practically every inexpensive aftermarket gauge under $125 offered. Practically all read low in the 212 to 260 degree range by 40 to 50 degrees on oil temperature and head temperature gauges in the 250 to 550 degree reading range, again being low by as much as 250 or more degrees. I tested about twenty each of most brands such as VDO, Smith, Stewart Warner, Hawk, etc., and found none without these problems.
Oil temperature gauge readings would be 212 to 220 degrees on the gauge when the true test temperature was 240 to 260 degrees. Head temperature gauges read 385 degrees with a true test temperature of 550 plus degrees. When head test temperatures were upped to 700 degrees, the reading of the gauge went up to 390 to 395 degrees. The price range of such gauges was from $60 to $125. I swapped gauges with senders and got different readings. I found nothing in that price range I would wish on my worst enemy. Not one I tested could ever be properly calibrated or relied on in any way for any valid information or even as a comparison from day to day on the air cooled VW.

Yes, even the oil pressure gauges were just as bad. I found good accurate gauges range from about $250 to $350 and few people would buy them. What was needed was a device that gave the information required and was reasonably priced. That was the reason for the GB 227 in the first place. It is specifically made and calibrated to provide an accurate reading in the ranges of the VW air cooled engine. Originated by Hal Brown in 1972. Made in the USA.

Note: If you must install an oil pressure gauge use GB 264-1/8 tee fitting and GB 265-1/8 pipe nipple to install the factory (Bosch VWA021-919-081B) light sending unit and the gauge together as the factory sender and light are over 100 times as fast to tell you if you run out of oil. Never use any sender that has the pressure and a light combination as they are extremely slow and you lose the rapid action that the factory light sender provides.

Warning: If you want gauges as a decoration fine, but never rely on them. After all, if they provided reliable information I would be selling them to make a profit just like our competition.

I use my own test........
Whenever I stop on a long run I have a sniff down the vents, hot smells different to HOT! 8)

Matt.
 
bl**dy hell Matt, now I don't know what to do :?

Interesting article though and just goes to show.


I use my own test........
Whenever I stop on a long run I have a sniff down the vents, hot smells different to HOT!

Matt.

I'll remember this ;)
 
Araon said:
Now temp data loggers would be a better idea that way you can sit at home and chart the temps and note patterns of events trends etc and it will show any deviations hinting at trouble ahead...

I did look at this but the cost was a bit off putting

My end aim is (I'll never get there BTW :lol: ) to be able to log data from all the senders along with GPS info so it could be used to show variations based on the type of terrain etc.

I bought the AFR kit for much the same price as a trip on a rolling road so I could tune the carbs myself, again eventually I would like to go for a turbo & efi (the AFR has a narrowband output for engine management etc & inputs for boost, vacuum tps etc).

I agree with blondiereads Berg extract with one exception, if you don't try these things then you never learn anything - after all how did Berg acquire all his knowledge? if he had listened to the advice given when he started we'd probably all be driving round with stock engine cases with stock cranks, cams, lifters, heads etc etc

As far as my oil temp sender goes I know that it reads the same value now as it did 5 years ago when I put it into boiling water.....
 
It's just experience and a little common sense, if the gauges are reading normal but your engine bay smells like a chip pan then something is clearly wrong!
In my opinion, have gauges and use them, they can be good for seeing whats going on inside the engine under different working conditions......BUT use your eyes and ears too, they are very effective diagnostic tools aswell.

Matt.
 
So its all a combination of using a gauge you have a bit of confedense in while driving, and using the good old visual, exhaust and sniff test. :)

Thank you gents for all the replies ;)
 
streetboy said:
So its all a combination of using a gauge you have a bit of confedense in while driving, and using the good old visual, exhaust and sniff test. :)

Thank you gents for all the replies ;)

Exactly 8)


oh and some prayer beads, a jesus dashboard wobble & a lucky rabbits foot ;)
 
:lol: :lol: :lol: yeah right :lol:

Are you going to Volksworld Loxy? be good to chat a bit longer than last time fella. ;)
 
streetboy said:
:lol: :lol: :lol: yeah right :lol:

Are you going to Volksworld Loxy? be good to chat a bit longer than last time fella. ;)

I'm planning to, but I have a horrible feeling that work is going to get in the way, if I make it then we will definitely have a bit of a chin wag.
 
blondiedread said:
From GeneBerg.com.

Why We Don't Sell Gauges.

I hear daily of engines being destroyed by people relying on gauges. I have run hundreds of accuracy tests on practically every inexpensive aftermarket gauge under $125 offered. Practically all read low in the 212 to 260 degree range by 40 to 50 degrees on oil temperature and head temperature gauges in the 250 to 550 degree reading range, again being low by as much as 250 or more degrees. I tested about twenty each of most brands such as VDO, Smith, Stewart Warner, Hawk, etc., and found none without these problems.
Oil temperature gauge readings would be 212 to 220 degrees on the gauge when the true test temperature was 240 to 260 degrees. Head temperature gauges read 385 degrees with a true test temperature of 550 plus degrees. When head test temperatures were upped to 700 degrees, the reading of the gauge went up to 390 to 395 degrees. The price range of such gauges was from $60 to $125. I swapped gauges with senders and got different readings. I found nothing in that price range I would wish on my worst enemy. Not one I tested could ever be properly calibrated or relied on in any way for any valid information or even as a comparison from day to day on the air cooled VW.

Yes, even the oil pressure gauges were just as bad. I found good accurate gauges range from about $250 to $350 and few people would buy them. What was needed was a device that gave the information required and was reasonably priced. That was the reason for the GB 227 in the first place. It is specifically made and calibrated to provide an accurate reading in the ranges of the VW air cooled engine. Originated by Hal Brown in 1972. Made in the USA.

Note: If you must install an oil pressure gauge use GB 264-1/8 tee fitting and GB 265-1/8 pipe nipple to install the factory (Bosch VWA021-919-081B) light sending unit and the gauge together as the factory sender and light are over 100 times as fast to tell you if you run out of oil. Never use any sender that has the pressure and a light combination as they are extremely slow and you lose the rapid action that the factory light sender provides.

Warning: If you want gauges as a decoration fine, but never rely on them. After all, if they provided reliable information I would be selling them to make a profit just like our competition.

I use my own test........
Whenever I stop on a long run I have a sniff down the vents, hot smells different to HOT! 8)

Matt.

Interesting read that.

There is a lot of paranoia about temperatures these days because these vehicles are now old and have become toys. Old worn out engines are more likely to overheat its true. Originally none of them had temperature and pressure gauges and the vehicles were operated extensively all over the world.

It makes me smile when I see posts about quoted readings and fear of overheating if doing more than 55 mph on a run in the English climate - because in my minds eye I recall the overloaded vans and mini buses stuffed with people and goods thrashing through the heat of the desert sand or climbing the mountain passes in south america - flat out in third or second gear for hours on end.

I can understand that owners like to fit gauges, they can look good and they can be useful if (as already posted) they are used as a guide rather than worrying about the absolute figures. I too now have a pressure and oil temp gauge fitted since the engine is significantly modified and I have to admit they have both been useful in keeping an eye on the monster, particularly whilst running in and whilst running at not inconsiderable speed on summer motorways in the med. I never bothered with gauges whilst running a stock engine.

The temperature discrepancies quoted in the article surprise me. Not the head temp ones. Head temps are notoriously difficult to measure. The whole point of the head design is to dissipate heat as fast as possible, so the reading you get from any system will vary considerably by even very small changes in the position/location you are measuring from.

Its the quoted oil temperature and pressure results that surprise me.

I too have tested guages from VDO, autometer, eqques, jaeger etc and found that most were not all that accurate but the differences were not as extreme as those quoted. Most read to within around 10%, which IMO makes them perfectly usable. You can always check your own in boiling water. Note you have to dip the sensor into the kettle while its actually boiling since as soon as you switch off the kettle the temperature drops very rapidly.

As for the comments on the reaction time of the oil warning light - that too I find exaggerated. It may be important on a race or dragster engine, where the driver is constantly monitoring everything and the warning lights are huge and bright - but in normal everyday driving in the real world, people simply dont watch their gauges and lights all the time and on a bright sunny day they can be almost invisible anyway.
 
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