Preparing small rusted areas for painting

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Whistler

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Location
Herne Bay, Kent
Year of Your Van(s)
1970
Van Type
Devon
Hi All,

I have tried searching for the procedure on best practice to repair small rust areas but couldn't really find anything definative without bring up 2 year old forum posts!

So I was hoping to get something easy to read/understand for the people who are new to this.

If this has been done already somewhere, can someone link it for me? Thank you!

The parts of the bus that I am personally going to be working on are under the window seals. They are a little rusty, and some parts are just bubbly. The parts of the bus that are mainly rusty will be cut out and removed.

I have got this process so far with a little help of the internet:-

Loosen the rust with a wire brush/drill/grinder attachment.
Sand with 80 grit and 120 grit
Wash with a degreaser (citrus based works well) - I am thinking simple washing up liquid here?
Using a wet cloth and paint thinner wipe over
Brush with a rust-inhibiting Primer that includes Zinc Chromate or Iron Oxide (I thought Iron Oxide was rust??)

Then would I use a normal primer and give it a little sand to smooth out?

With all of the above, I won't be getting her painted professionally for at least 6 months, maybe more. Will this be ok with the process above?

Sorry for what is probably rather straight forward, it is just something I have never done before!

Thanks,

Whis
 
Don't use washing up liquid, it contains salt.
Wire brush, clean off then use a rust killer/converter (such as Kurust or similar), etch prime, wipe of filler if necessary, sand back with 600 wet and dry, another coat of primer, sand back with 1200 wet and dry, then top coat
 
Thanks Sparky!

When you say top coat, do you mean the final paint? I was hoping to leave it as primer for the foreseeable.

I am also assuming all the materials needed are run-of-the-mill obtain from Halfords stuff?
 
Hi - could try getting the required rust convertor from rustshop as they are a forum sponsor - I've dealt with them before and they are more than helpful on the best product to use and advise e.t.c. - they are also a disti for the stuff linked by sparkywig above:

http://therustshop.com/
 
Just as another question to this. Earlier on Sparkywig said 600, then another coat, then 1200 wet and dry. Would I do this same procedure on the top coat?

I've heard people say 'flat' it back I think it is. I assume that means to sand it down to get it all nice and smooth for the next coat.

Ta.
 
I wouldn`t worry too much about flatting and stuff as I take it that you will get someone else to paint the bus in good time ?? A pro will do all that sort of stuff so quick (up to us) it`ll make you blink. I think what SparkyWigs is getting at, is getting shot of the rust is one bit that should immediately be followed by the second bit and that is to get some primer on there. Primer is great stuff and Pee easy to do and hard to bugger up, but it will not protect your new repair against rust because it`s porous and will allow moisture to pass through and contact the very bits of metal you`ve been trying to stop from rusting :shock: So you need some top coat on there that will be moisture proof to stop your repaired bit from going rusty behind the primer while your waiting for a nice spray job :D So it don`t have to be painted pretty, or even the same colour (close would be nice) and it don`t matter if it`s got runs all over the place , just so long as it`s there asap after the repair, same day or next day would be good if it`s protected like in a garage, if it`s outside then just straightaway or you`ve just wasted your time :shock:

Ozziedog,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, Crap painting,,,,,,,,, my speciality :lol: :mrgreen: :lol:
 
Just a quick one has anyone used vactan rust converter from eBay ??
Sorry about the hijack !!

http://bit.ly/1b2XAb0" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Item no. 111013660729
 

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