Small amount of restoration...

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Cheers guys, turn out to be a great journey, purred along at 60 for 200 miles. It's so hot, but awesome.

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Weird issue on the way home, we just turned onto the A30 to start the 100 mile drive to Exeter, when I heard a strange noise from the rear, quite alarming and for a moment I was stumped. It turned out to be the tin that bolts to the engine round the large pully scraping on the pully itself! It's really loud and sounds a lot worse than it is.

So I got a mallet and a screwdriver and wacked it until it wasn't rubbing any more. But how strange that I'd done 200 miles + driving round Cornwall, then suddenly this decides to move. It took quite a while to get it to seat properly when I fitted it, maybe the heat distorted it?
Does sound weirdy weird weird :shock: :shock: :shock: My first thought would Beto check over stuff when you’re home, like moustache mounts to the motor and the body etc etc etc even bell housing stuff and box stuff.

Ozziedog,,,,,,,,keep us in the loop :mrgreen:
I had exactly the same issue after rebuilding my engine recently. Initially thought my clutch throw out had failed. Same solution, hammer and screwdriver on the tinware.
Here's some pics, I don't think they show anything obvious. Although it was less loud, I may have actually made it worse by hammering the bottom of the face plate with a screwdriver. It just made it higher in other places.

I'll bend it back and refit, and try and get some clearance.

When I fitted it took me ages to get it so it wasn't rubbing, can now see why the PO didn't fit it. Seems a bit odd, it a Heritage 1776, not sure if I'd be better off with a standard pully instead of the aluminium one?









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You said it , alloy pully is the trouble . I have come across this before more than once , think they do shims to space it back?
Thanks for the reply 67Panel, I thought a shim, or washer may help, but then would it not be out of alignment with the alt pully?

This afternoon I took all the rear tin out then hammered the shit out of the face plate and ground off some corners, (split my head open when the 30mm spanner slipped off the large pully nut - good job my next door neighbor is a GP and she was in!) fitted again, then found it still rubbed slightly so I wacked it with a hammer and screwdriver quite carefully and now its ok. But the clearance must be a fraction of a mm.

I wonder if it would be ok to remove that bit of tin (as the PO had done) i do have an oil cooler?

I'll have a look at some other pully solutions.

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Dinotrolling the underneath. Just spent all afternoon getting the old loose wax off. There is no rust anywhere, so that's good.
I'll leave the solid old wax there as it's all clean under that.

So what other jobs can I do whilst it's up on stands?

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Valve clearance. Whilst it was off the ground I thought I may as well check the clearances.

They were ok apart from cyl 4, which was a bit tight.

Also found one of the nuts in the cover when I took it off, surprisingly the gap was still ok.


Gave the J-tubes a bit of a clean whilst I was there


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Had that on the drag Beetle engine , not unknown and it was pulling stupid rpm (7500/ 8000) . you were lucky the adjuster didn't back off as that can lead to pushrod jumping out with lifter bore damage.
Glad you sorted the 'noise' problem and looking good underneath with the new seal :)
Spraying another panel....

Haven't done much of this for a while. My new Devilbiss gun seems to throw out a lot more paint than my other cheepo one. Not too bad, a couple of runs, but there's plenty of paint there to flat

A bit of sanding and filler...

Removed door handle..

500ml of paint later

A run, noooo (doesn't show up very well)

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Looks really good, glad you’re happy with that new gun. On my to doooos list, but it’s long, very very long. :roll:

Ozziedog,,,,,,,,,after the motor, and the gearbox, and the interior,, etc etc etc :mrgreen:

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