Rear hub nut 1970 Bus

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Campmobile70

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Try to undo this s couple years back and couldn't shift it, ( other bus come and went and this bus was put away )
Has anyone any tips on removing a seized hub nut, is cutting it off best way of removing it.

What size is the hub nut on any early 70 rear hub,

Thanks
 
What have you tried so far ?

- a socket and breaker bar, extended with a scaffold pole, with a brick under the tire to stop the bus rolling backwards should do it...

These are cheaper, but you gotta really whack 'em really hard with a big hammer - I bought one but was too worried about the hammer bouncing off and damaging the car - so invested in Halfrauds breaker bar, so personally I don't recommend the below but maybe I was using it wrong, I don't know what the square hole is for - must have a purpose...

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/vw-rear-axle-nut-remover-46mm-camper-bug-/330575344414?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item4cf7d3731e" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
 
Yeah same as Matt said.

Soak it in penetrating oil for a week, get yourself a life-time warranty 1inch drive clark pro breakerbar from Machine Mart, may not be listed online, but they have it and you'll need a 46mm socket. A good 1.5m scaffolding bar and that should get it off.

Took me a while, but I got it in the end. otherwise why not go to a garage have them loosen it with an air impact hammer, tighten it up again and drive home to loosen it again...

I wouldn't go near it with heat as seen on a car restoration show on tv...

Good luck!

Andy
 
Campmobile70 said:
Thanks for the info, tried the breaker bar and block under the wheel, but no motor fitted so the wheel just spun when the bar was used

If the wheel is spinning, then there'll be no use using a bigger bar. You need to find some way of wedging the wheel - maybe letting the tire down a load so that it really digs into a brick or block of wood?
 
one inch Breaker bar, socket, and a fat guy standing on the end of a scaffold pole!!! Then hit the hub with a big hammer while the fat guy bounces...it will go but mind the paintwork on the side of the van if removing the nearside rear!!!
 
Hit the flats of the nut with a decent hammer to shock it loose. All the buses I've done I've got off with a 1/2" bar and a 46mm socket on an adaptor.
 
I did mine without a motor in it. Heat, wd40, hammer flats on nuts, jam wheel against high curb or block with pretty much vertical wood to stop wheel climbing. Just try and get as much surface area of the tyre contacting something to prevent spinning. Try strapping wheel down to a trailer if you've got one as if your transporting it.
 
Cut it off carefully then hit a cold chisel in the slit, it will take you 15 mins max and a new nut it about £5.
Heating it and whacking it within an inch of its life may get it off eventually but you may damage something or yourself and it takes ages. safety 1st and safety 2nd.
 
Don,t think anyone said heat it to red hot or whack it with a lump hammer. just enough heat and as it cools down give it oil or wd40 so it acts like a capillary drawing the lube into threads. Some of those replacement nuts are half size and made from monkey metal.
 
yeah try to save your nuts :lol:

I ordered some new ones and they were shockingly puny in comparison to the stout og ones.
Mind you I broke a 1" drive breaker bar on one of the og ones and don't think the new nut would have bee able to withstand that...
Unless you can find og replacements before cutting yours off, try everything else.
 
trebor said:
Don,t think anyone said heat it to red hot or whack it with a lump hammer. just enough heat and as it cools down give it oil or wd40 so it acts like a capillary drawing the lube into threads. Some of those replacement nuts are half size and made from monkey metal.


your right no said red hot or whack it with a lump hammer. But when frustration sets in some might heat it to much so that the drive shaft expand with too so the fluid won't go anywhere, then whack it trying to get it off.

I would still suggest cutting it off.
 
WD40 aint no good, you need proper penetrating spray. Soak in that for a couple of days. Long breaker bar and scaffold pole and cram a load of mates in the back to hold the bugger down and bounce on the pole. It will go.
 
radish said:
trebor said:
Don,t think anyone said heat it to red hot or whack it with a lump hammer. just enough heat and as it cools down give it oil or wd40 so it acts like a capillary drawing the lube into threads. Some of those replacement nuts are half size and made from monkey metal.


your right no said red hot or whack it with a lump hammer. But when frustration sets in some might heat it to much so that the drive shaft expand with too so the fluid won't go anywhere, then whack it trying to get it off.

I would still suggest cutting it off.

What would you use to cut it off - without damaging the drum...?
 
I made a wheel lock to hold the wheel still when doing the rear hub nuts. Basically, an old wheel, cut out the centre, cut it down to just 3 wheel bolt holes and enough metal around it to stay strong, weld it to a length of 1 inch angle and you are good to go.

Undo 3 wheel nuts, slip on the wheel lock, do up the nuts again and rotate the wheel so the angle hits the ground then use your breaker and scaff pole and socket on the hub nut and there is no way the van can possibly move against the bar. Works every time.
 
Wolf impact gun easy ! But it may turn ya whole van upside down , they joys of working in heavy industry free mega tools
To stop ya wheel turning get sum angle drill two holes the same as ya nuts and bolt it onto the wheel it won't turn then and yeah flog the nut a few times before and during breaker bar jobs , ps this torque ain't nowt we go up to 120000 ft lbs at my work , fuck ya bugattis that reall torque , good luck and yeah who ever invented wd 40is a genius it doesn't do anything it says on the tin and people love it same like macdonalds comete bollocks for the masses
 

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