Separating drop arm from steering box - HELP!

[woodslat]

First off, I apologize for coming late to this party! You all could have had zero problems using this tool available for $12 on ebay:

http://cgi.ebay.com/Auto-Pitman-Arm-Puller_W0QQitemZ230370153019QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item35a321923b" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I've used this tool to pull no less than 50 drop arms. Sure, some are stubborn and require a bit more persuasion but never had to cut one off since buying this tool. WD-40 is a last resort, we have much more effective penetrating oils nowadays. I can't remember the name of the stuff I bought in the UK for the same job, was much better than WD.

That being said, I have a tip I got from a friend on how to pop the arm off with NO TOOL other than the spanner to loosen the nut. Loosen nut 1-2 turns only. Drive the bus slalom style on pavement at low speed (not far!) until it pops, end of story.

I hate coming late to parties, especially if I can help.

 

[scamperbus]

Thanks for the advice Woodslat.


I’ve now re-fitted the box, drop arm, and re-connected the new coupling. The drag link is not yet attached. I’ve found the centre-point which is where the steering goes “tighter”/ very slightly drags. The drop arm is fitted in the same position as it was prior to me taking it off.

For my own peace of mind I put a bit of masking tape on the top of the steering wheel rim in the 12 o’clock position, and also a bit on the dash vertically in line with this. The steering wheel turns approx 480 degrees to the left (one complete rotation, plus another 120 degrees, so that the masking tape is at the 8 o’clock position on full left lock) and approx 510 degrees to the right (one complete rotation, plus another 150 degrees, so that the masking tape marker is at the 5 o’clock position on full right lock).

Should I be concerned that the “tightest” point where I feel the most drag isn’t exactly half way between left and right lock?

The implication is I can turn slightly tighter circles when turning right than I can when I turn left. Can anyone tell me if this is this normal? (….To be honest this was the case before I had the box rebuilt. I just accepted it because in reality the difference between left and right lock is pretty minimal, but as I only want to do this job once I want to get it right and learn something from it).

I’m concerned that if I ignore the centre spot where the steering reaches it’s “tight spot” and attach the drag link using the half way between left and right lock position instead, it may wear the box prematurely and mean the bus won’t go in a straight line without me constantly correcting it….but I will have equal left and right lock

In a nutshell I guess the question is do I attach the drag link with the drop arm positioned half way between left and right lock, or do I attach it when the “tight” spot is felt and live with the fact the locks are unequal?