Looks good mate. 8)
Spring Valley Bus meets Corvair
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dubdubz
Well-known member
Good to hear you're brake pipe is sorted - I had a mammoth task with mine and the bias valve and the pipe being installed wrong. The thing installed correctly the pipes didn't fit - so I had to make some more.......
ah my 3/16 former is broken...so I went to machinemart and got duped into buying the handheld tool...it's rubbish, very fiddly and I'm taking it back for a swap for the normal type. I was hoping as it was double the normal it was going to be brilliant.
I can't justify spending £100's and I suspect that's where you get nice swages........
ah my 3/16 former is broken...so I went to machinemart and got duped into buying the handheld tool...it's rubbish, very fiddly and I'm taking it back for a swap for the normal type. I was hoping as it was double the normal it was going to be brilliant.
I can't justify spending £100's and I suspect that's where you get nice swages........
creationblue
Well-known member
Next thing on jobs to do list it Ball joints, mine are fooked! the boots are all split and me knocking one of the grease nipples off didnt help the cause :roll: Any advise on replacing them?
Just
Just
dubdubz
Well-known member
creationblue said:
yep it's a pain! actually easiest way to get them out is grind the tops off, knock the joint out the reverse way and then carefully - CAREFULLY hacksaw the remaining ring out. It'll take awhile if you're careful as if you go too far the bit your cutting is the arm itself.
I had to cut twice and take out a segment if you can imagine it, the ring will then squash with a vise and come out.
I have 4 new joints and 4 arms ready to go but as yet not found anyone local to press them in - pressing in is easier apparently but you need a former [as always], something I haven't yet got........
They are an absolute pig to press out - we got one out at Tim's Roadhouse retro but this was on his 20tonne press which was bending!! and copious heat. And I could only get 1 out of 4 done - it just seemed too dangerous. Cutting takes around 30mins max, and is fine if you're ok with a large hacksaw!
creationblue
Well-known member
dubdubz said:
Great another 'Easy' job....NOT :lol: I think Scott Wilson does them, ill PM him
Just
creationblue
Well-known member
dubdubz said:
I was gonna get the tools to do myself, but everything i do lately takes double the time it should and i usually break something that leads to another job :lol:
You should make up some spare pipes and sell them, definatly a marked it for them
Just
dubdubz
Well-known member
creationblue said:
Alex at Transporterhaus also does loads with spindles [obviously] he could have done mine but forgot to ship with my exchange arms when I bought DS from him.
People sell the ful kits and it's a 'oh crap need to get that fixed today or tomorrow' deal with brakes, partly as you don't want the system open for too long getting moisture in.
if the cost isn't stupid then I'd outsource the blighters........
D
creationblue said:Johnny said:
This is indeed the theory behind the kit, the torsion leaves are removed and the tie bars fitted and located in the factory way with the grub screws. The coil overs replace the standard shocks. The benifit over an adjuster is that you retain the comfort, especially when like me you combine the Red9 kit with dropped spindles, I get (in theory) full travel and adjustable height and damping. With this 2-4" drop kit (set to 2" in the above pics, im roughly 4.5" lower than stock with a ride that dont excite my dentist
Just
thank you both for your explanations :worship:
I had never seen this system
aogrady
Well-known member
Hi!
Yes, i have just got some off Scott as my originals finally gave up the ghost after scrapping through the mot the last 3 years. About 160 quid exchange, use Mayer (?) ball joints which i have seen advertised elsewhere as heavy duty whatever that means on ball joints, so they seem decent. Cheaper than Cool Air too!
I had Scott's last set, but he has my old ones back the other week, so you may get my old arms redone?
Shame new ball joints dont have the grease nipples anymore. Don't know if they can be retro fitted though?Use parcel2go to send back, cost me 6.99+vat IIRC to send the 4 arms back, about 8 quid odd, so cheap.
Personally, even if i had the tools to do it, i think for the hassle, it's well worth just getting a set bought in, do you really want to spend ages grinding and cutting, only have to do all over again FOUR TIMES!! And then you still have to get new ones pressed in.... :sad0049:
Remember the camper nut on top will need adjusting, and check the beam end seals where the arms go in. Mine were ok, but maybe a idea to get spares in just in case. As most of us work on them at the weekend, once you have gutted the front of your bus only to find out you need extra stuff.........Grrrr!!
I bottled it and got a garage to do mine as i haven't the tools, or wanting the van laid up if something went wrong. Paid for it dearly though, it wasn't cheap, but they did a good job, and time costs money
Cheers!
Alistair
creationblue
Well-known member
aogrady said:
Hi!
Yes, i have just got some off Scott as my originals finally gave up the ghost after scrapping through the mot the last 3 years. About 160 quid exchange, use Mayer (?) ball joints which i have seen advertised elsewhere as heavy duty whatever that means on ball joints, so they seem decent. Cheaper than Cool Air too!
I had Scott's last set, but he has my old ones back the other week, so you may get my old arms redone?
Use parcel2go to send back, cost me 6.99+vat IIRC to send the 4 arms back, about 8 quid odd, so cheap.
Personally, even if i had the tools to do it, i think for the hassle, it's well worth just getting a set bought in, do you really want to spend ages grinding and cutting, only have to do all over again FOUR TIMES!! And then you still have to get new ones pressed in.... :sad0049:
Remember the camper nut on top will need adjusting, and check the beam end seals where the arms go in. Mine were ok, but maybe a idea to get spares in just in case. As most of us work on them at the weekend, once you have gutted the front of your bus only to find out you need extra stuff.........Grrrr!!
I bottled it and got a garage to do mine as i haven't the tools, or wanting the van laid up if something went wrong. Paid for it dearly though, it wasn't cheap, but they did a good job, and time costs money
Cheers!
Alistair
Good advice there fella, what are the beam end seals? I lost a cover from the trailing arms as a bit of weld came off the leaves and pushed the cap off as i was knockin the trailing arm home. Was gonna silicon this back in.....
Just
aogrady
Well-known member
Here are the torsion arms beam end seals
http://www.machine7.com/product.php?xProd=777&xSec=429" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Here are the roller bearings too if needed:
http://www.machine7.com/section.php?xSec=431" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Sure sealing the cap on would be ok. Will have to make sure no grease at all is on the torsion arm end or cap otherwise the silicon will never stick.
Cheers!
Alistair
creationblue
Well-known member
Right got the bus back with a new brake pipe and brakes that do the job VW intended 8) Think I got robbed but at the end of the day im happy to have got it sorted in quick time, price you pay i guess :?
Got home and hammerited the bumpstop stubs to protect from rust and dossed it with waxoyl just to be on the safe side :lol: , then went for a test drive.................
...........right so i have a fair amount of tyre rub on the arches, not supprising really as there isnt much clearance with those 75 profile tyres, im assuming my stiffening the dampers i will firm up the ride and more importantly limit the suspension travel, troube is im not sure how to do it, the Spax came with very little info.........and ideas guys?
Just
Got home and hammerited the bumpstop stubs to protect from rust and dossed it with waxoyl just to be on the safe side :lol: , then went for a test drive.................
...........right so i have a fair amount of tyre rub on the arches, not supprising really as there isnt much clearance with those 75 profile tyres, im assuming my stiffening the dampers i will firm up the ride and more importantly limit the suspension travel, troube is im not sure how to do it, the Spax came with very little info.........and ideas guys?
Just
creationblue
Well-known member
Another addition, im loving all this chrome............. :lol: one or two other things up my sleeve, but thats for another time
Just
Just
dubdubz
Well-known member
where do you get the headlight trims I really like that look......
creationblue
Well-known member
dubdubz said:
Hi
got them off ebay ages ago, think they are mini fitment lol, a bitch to fit tho!!!
Just
creationblue
Well-known member
Just had a mess about with the coilovers, the tyres kept bottoming out over every bump, so adjusted them right up (clockwise) seems pretty good now, rubs only on the lagest dips so quite happy with that 8) and the ride is pretty damn good too
Just
Just
creationblue said:Just had a mess about with the coilovers, the tyres kept bottoming out over every bump, so adjusted them right up (clockwise) seems pretty good now, rubs only on the lagest dips so quite happy with that 8) and the ride is pretty damn good too
Just
Result :mrgreen:
STUMP
Well-known member
Hows things going mate? any new pics of the rostyles or the things up your sleeve ? i managed to get mine done at the weekend and really happy with the results. I had a play with the spax aswell 20 clicks clockwise seemed to sort most of the rubbing without 'crashing' into pot holes as any more it didn't soak the bumps up. Your ride quality must be spot on with the dropped spindles. D'Arcy
ps love the light grilles 8)
ps love the light grilles 8)
creationblue
Well-known member
STUMP said:
The Rostyles will make a comeback very soon
got something 'Deluxe' for the bumpers in the garage.......I can just get two fingers between the top of the front tyres and the cab floor so the ride on the 28th click of the spax is a lil firm but not in anyway crashing about, so thats all good as it only scuffs over the deepest of potholes :roll:
Rear plates to go on next, how was the fitment?
Just
STUMP
Well-known member
The fitment was easy enough. I was a bit scared when i read the fitting instructions that came with them when they started mentioning chains :shock: :shock: . I need to strip one side off again as i was a few teeth out :roll: . It took about 1.5 hours -2 hours per side including brews :lol: I will be updating my thread tomorrow with pics of how i fitted the rear.
