Testing ignition switch

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Webbaldo

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After spending an hour searching EB and TheSamba Ive kinda given up and need to ask the experts :)

I need to test my ignition switch/feeds work before going ahead to clean up. My bus had a hotwire setup before removing the old wiring. But I have the original key, and it turns freely and the wiring looks ok. So no idea why they did this

Can I put a 12v battery to a wire and use a multimeter to test the connections? What should I be looking for when I turn the key?

its off the bus altogether at present
 
Webbaldo said:
After spending an hour searching EB and TheSamba Ive kinda given up and need to ask the experts :)

I need to test my ignition switch/feeds work before going ahead to clean up. My bus had a hotwire setup before removing the old wiring. But I have the original key, and it turns freely and the wiring looks ok. So no idea why they did this

Can I put a 12v battery to a wire and use a multimeter to test the connections? What should I be looking for when I turn the key?

its off the bus altogether at present


Hi you should have 3 wires coming from the switch. Red, red/black, black. No need to have 12V going to it. Switch the multimeter to continuity. Hold a lead from the multimeter on the red wire (this is the live wire in from the light switch but not important just now). Turn the key switch to the first position and hold the other lead on the black cable (this is the switched live cable that goes to fusebox and on to coil and other things). The multimeter should give an audible bleep to show you have continuity. Next take the lead off the black cable and hold it on to the red/black cable (this cable sends live down to the starter motor). Turn the key to mimick starting the vehicle. As you turn it the mulitmeter will again give a sound to show continuity to that cable.

So to recap. Red cable is "live" in. One turn makes the black "live" and then the black/red becomes "live" once you go past the first click and in to the spring loaded starting position.
 
Evo1972 said:
Webbaldo said:
After spending an hour searching EB and TheSamba Ive kinda given up and need to ask the experts :)

I need to test my ignition switch/feeds work before going ahead to clean up. My bus had a hotwire setup before removing the old wiring. But I have the original key, and it turns freely and the wiring looks ok. So no idea why they did this

Can I put a 12v battery to a wire and use a multimeter to test the connections? What should I be looking for when I turn the key?

its off the bus altogether at present


Hi you should have 3 wires coming from the switch. Red, red/black, black. No need to have 12V going to it. Switch the multimeter to continuity. Hold a lead from the multimeter on the red wire (this is the live wire in from the light switch but not important just now). Turn the key switch to the first position and hold the other lead on the black cable (this is the switched live cable that goes to fusebox and on to coil and other things). The multimeter should give an audible bleep to show you have continuity. Next take the lead off the black cable and hold it on to the red/black cable (this cable sends live down to the starter motor). Turn the key to mimick starting the vehicle. As you turn it the mulitmeter will again give a sound to show continuity to that cable.

So to recap. Red cable is "live" in. One turn makes the black "live" and then the black/red becomes "live" once you go past the first click and in to the spring loaded starting position.


Thanks for the great advice mate, will give it a try tonight. Was looking on the samba wiring diagram as you were probs typing this out. Makes a lot of sense now!
 
Well tried. Key turns ok, first connection works (black) but red/black wire shows no continuity when cranked.

Assuming I need a new ignition switch :(
 
Not a bad job matey !! Just done mine this weekend also replaced ignition barrel hardest part was getting the barrel out of the housing .

Took me 2 hours without a clue
 
Bluesnailman said:
you might want to add a relay to the system, takes the strain out of the (new) switch.

(also called a hot-start relay on here)
Cheers might have a look. Redoing all the electrics anyway so might be handy
 
Mark, message me on farcebook a picture of the ignition switch when you get it all separated as I might have one lying up the road I found earlier today
 

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