Too much oil

Early Bay Forum

Help Support Early Bay Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Blowfish14417

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 10, 2011
Messages
66
Reaction score
0
Hi everyone.

I've discovered I have too much oil in my engine. For those that read my last topic about oil in my filter, possibly this could be the problem?

Anyway, I looked at my dipstick and the level is some way over fill mark.

I have standard sump on a 1600. No fancy drain plug.

I've never changed my oil which is an out cry I hear you say, but I've always had it done whilst in having other work carried out.

My question is, to get oil level down, do I need new gasket and other stuff?

Thanks in advance for help.
 
depends if you have a plug in middle of filter plate,make sure high oil level not caused by fuel in oil from carb flooding!
 
Thanks for reply. Nope just got old plate with no plug.

How will I know about the carb flooding?
 
Right, as above sniff your dipstick!

If it stinks of fuel and the oil is thin it suggests a knackered fuel pump.

If your drive around with too much oil it tends to blow out the flywheel oil seal, which is an engine out, clutch off, flywheel off job. And then its a case of getting hold of a good quality flywheel oil seal because there are some shite ones in circulation.

The blank sumps are a bit of a pain but you can buy a new sump plate from GSF with a drain plug, if you go to your local gsf they will be able to sort you out with a new sump plate, gasket, copper washers for the little nuts that hold it on and it will be supplied with a new copper washer for the sump plug.

Capacity for the engine is roughly 2.5 litres, the space between the marks in the dipstick is roughly a litre. Remember to fill it up with 15/40 Mineral (you can use 20/50 if you like, the important thing is that you make sure its mineral, avoid semi and fully synthetic like the plague) I use a powerade bottle to fill my oil as it has the non drip top, fits easily in the engine bay and holds 0.5L so its easy to measure.
 
Hi - as mentioned, if you take out your pump and it's damp on the underside then likely to be the gasket, I've got one surplus to requirements and can drop it in the post, could also be carb flooding as stated, any idea how long it's been like it?
 
Oh yes, absolutely stinking of fuel.

Been running rough for about a year.

A reputable garage here in Manchester discovered my paper filter mashed up and soggy about 6 - 8 months ago. I replaced it. He said it was running a bit rich and the throttle was sticking.

Said it was fixed.

About 2 months ago, my bus was back firing and AA found oil in my pancake filter.

I ran it for a bit without filter and cleaned plugs as they were black and found to be okay.

AA man said replace filter and plugs and will be okay.

Ive done that and fitted a catch can. This has now quite a considerable amount of oil in from breather tube, however oil level remains same.

Just found out dipstick stinks of fuel!

So what's prognosis guys and gals?

Big job and loads of cash?

I have garage cover with AA. Hope this will help me.
 
Hi

I suppose the good news is that following several attempts at curing/combatting the symptoms you are now much closer to discovering the root cause, I had running issues for 8 months that I finally tracked down to a servo air leak!

Don't think it's engine out just yet - only if this has caused damage to the seals due to high pressure, if it's been spitting oil out then it may have been enough to release it before any lasting damage

I would determine if it's a flooding carb, faulty fuel pump etc - you can leave it all in place hopefully whilst you zero in on the culprit!

As said I have a fuel pump going begging - also have a couple of spare pict34 carbs that you could borrow before splashing out on a rebuild/replacement?
 
Hi all.

Been told possible cause could be piston rings or worn piston bores. That's why it's firing badly and unburnt fuel getting in the oil.

Am I looking at mega bucks here if this is the case?
 
Process of elimination matey, change out the pump, try it, rebuild carb, try it,





Cry, compression test, have a slice of cake (works for me) and report back
 
Firstly can I say, highly recommend guys at Westhoughton VW. Very good and knowledgable.

Happened to be wrong fuel pump fitted and to long a pin from alternator causing pressure to build and blow the seal.

Bus is running tip top thanks to Lard and the oil bath I bought from him and the garage. Goes to show my last mechanic who's been in the game for years and a lot of people use him on here, he actually knows sweet FA. I won't name and shame.

Confident driving at last. But for how long? Lol
 
Blowfish14417 said:
Firstly can I say, highly recommend guys at Westhoughton VW. Very good and knowledgable.

Happened to be wrong fuel pump fitted and to long a pin from alternator causing pressure to build and blow the seal.

Bus is running tip top thanks to Lard and the oil bath I bought from him and the garage. Goes to show my last mechanic who's been in the game for years and a lot of people use him on here, he actually knows sweet FA. I won't name and shame.

Confident driving at last. But for how long? Lol

Great news - so was the wrong length pushrod for the fuel pump? I personally would have spent ages tracking that down (at least 2 or 3 fuel pumps worth :D - probably explains why I now own 2 of everything!) - chuffed it's back on form, on the question of how long....preventative maintenance is the key ;) - oil change + valve clearance every 6 months plus spare fan belt, spare points, spare fuses help me extend it!
 
ProfessorWheeto said:
Right, as above sniff your dipstick!

If it stinks of fuel and the oil is thin it suggests a knackered fuel pump.

If your drive around with too much oil it tends to blow out the flywheel oil seal, which is an engine out, clutch off, flywheel off job. And then its a case of getting hold of a good quality flywheel oil seal because there are some shite ones in circulation.

The blank sumps are a bit of a pain but you can buy a new sump plate from GSF with a drain plug, if you go to your local gsf they will be able to sort you out with a new sump plate, gasket, copper washers for the little nuts that hold it on and it will be supplied with a new copper washer for the sump plug.

Capacity for the engine is roughly 2.5 litres, the space between the marks in the dipstick is roughly a litre. Remember to fill it up with 15/40 Mineral (you can use 20/50 if you like, the important thing is that you make sure its mineral, avoid semi and fully synthetic like the plague) I use a powerade bottle to fill my oil as it has the non drip top, fits easily in the engine bay and holds 0.5L so its easy to measure.


nice tip for the powerade bottle !!! been wondering how to get over this little annoying problem :)
 
Sorry Zed not up on this stuff. Just what I was told that a rod from my alternator was too long? So proper length rod fitted and correct pump with stock filter has done the trick.

In the 3 yrs I've had her, she's running the best yet. Well chuffed.
 
Not sure about the alternator, maybe the rod from the fuel pump is what you mean? :?:

The rod gets changed when you go from generator to alternator.
 

Latest posts

Top