FS Alistair's 1970 Westy SO70 Campmobile - San Lorenzo, Cali

[aogrady]

Hi

Thanks, the weather was great, nice and hot, the pictures are via Instagram, so a little grainy.... 8)

Cheers!

Alistair

 

[r73]

Thought I recognised the instagram style really suits early bay pics though

 

[aogrady]

Thought I recognised the instagram style really suits early bay pics though

It's my new favourite thing - asisde from cork tiles of course......

Cheers!

Alistair

 

[Anonymous]

Hi, I've just notice this thread, Great looking Westy

I've got the same fridge and fitted a solar panel as well. Is your solar panel fitted to the luggage rails and can you put it at an angle so you get more benefit from the sun. Mine is solidly fixed and looking at ideas to put it at an angle when parked up
Problem is you can't always face south in some campsites especially if you want to get a good night sleep :?

I luv looking at other peoples threads as I'm getting my interior fitted in August and get some great ideas from you guys and girls. Try to make my own but haven't got the know how, time or patience. I really dig you guys the great work you do to your bays.

Nigel

 

[aogrady]

Hi, I've just notice this thread, Great looking Westy

I've got the same fridge and fitted a solar panel as well. Is your solar panel fitted to the luggage rails and can you put it at an angle so you get more benefit from the sun. Mine is solidly fixed and looking at ideas to put it at an angle when parked up
Problem is you can't always face south in some campsites especially if you want to get a good night sleep :?

I luv looking at other peoples threads as I'm getting my interior fitted in August and get some great ideas from you guys and girls. Try to make my own but haven't got the know how, time or patience. I really dig you guys the great work you do to your bays.

Nigel

Hi!

Cool, same setup? Now i haven't got my panels fitted yet, but as you saw, i had outlined my plans for solar, i just need to get them ordered.

Would love to see your set up, do you have any pictures of your bus and the solar stuff, get up a gallery if you haven't done already - we like pictures here!

You'll certainly find inspiration on here, many many great buses, from interiors to paint and suspension.

As for adjustable panels, i have seen on the samba and somewhere else IIRC, someone had used upvc window hinge open stays to tilt up the panel. Like this item here as a example:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/220698790627?var=520023040297&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Cheers!

Alistair

 

[aogrady]

Hi!

Went to Farm Festival the other weekend, great time was had, a few pics...

Need to do a little work on the fixing tabs on the bra as they dont fit well on 2 tabs and look like they will be marking the paint as they have already been replaced by the PO

Van ran great, last min rocker gasket fix, drove there and back well, fixed the hesitation from idle when driving off, new dizzy cap and rotor arm, still got a oil leak, but seems to be coming from above the rhs rocker and running down and around the cover onto the heat exchanger. Getting bored of this, lord knows where it's coming from...

Got a awesome new leisure battery set-up brewing, just doing some research on charging systems, DC to DC chargers and 240V chargers...will post up more details a little later...

Cheers!

Alistair

 

[aogrady]

Hi!

Been doing a few bits and pieces, fitted a new battery:

Got it from RAC online, very cheap @ £39 inc delivery. 3 yr warrenty and they come to you if it goes wrong. It's a higher aH than stock, with better CCA, fits fine, though check with terminal is + as mine was the other way round due to some random american battery which was fitted, over 3 years old and never checked, was starting to sound slow when cranking. Was looking low on acid when i looked in one cell, may keep for a back up project with a solar panel for a light in the garage.

http://www.racshop.co.uk/car-battery/product/bosch-s3-car-battery-065-075.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I have bought some blue LED panel meters to monitor voltage at the fridge lesiure battery supply, and to monitor fridge temperature output.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/370626378265?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/370629991656?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

These will fit on a flip down panel, just under the gas hob, behind the drop down door.

Also, i have been trying to do some homework on leisure batteries, and have gone down a different route to what i have seen anyone else using I think. I will be using 2 6V flooded wet batterys linked together to form 1 12V bank. I am using Trojan deep cycle traction batterys, used in golf carts and similar. Here they are:

http://www.alternativeenergystore.co.uk/trojan-t605-6v-deep-cycle-battery.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

You can see the size of them compaired to the Bosch starter battery. :shock: These will fit under the rock and roll bed next to the propex, I just need to move the inverter somewhere else, and finally fit the mains hookup, though to be honest, i dont think i am gonna really need it, unless i go for option 1 (see below)

Now, the reason for going with these is that a normal leisure battery, even a deep cycle leisure battery has a life cycle of max 500 cycles, these Trojan's have at least 1000 cycles, and where about the largest ah leisure battery is 125, which ore over £100 quid each, i paid £65 each for these Trojan's, with the added benefit of ultra deep cycle and recharge over a normal battery - plus these are rated at 210aH !!! MASSIVE !!!

I still have some more research to do on the charger system i want to use, here are a few things i have found, but i am in 2 minds to go for this:

http://www.seapost.co.uk/sterling-ab1280-special-price---digital-ab-1280-alternator-to-battery-charge-booster-416-p.asp" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Also would like a monitoring device to add to the system like this:

http://www.marinesuperstore.com/posit/shop/index.php?selectedpartno=99197803" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

This is cheap:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/300735242790?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I would like some kind of battery monitoring device and control, i'm in 2 minds to just get a basic split charge system and use something like this:

http://bluesea.com/productline/specs/387" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

On ebay here:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Blue-Sea-7610-ACR-Automatic-Charging-Relay-Voltage-Sensing-IP67-12-24V-BlueSea-/310347723938?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item48422a74a2" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Or this:

http://www.vanbitz.com/battery-master-1-p.asp" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

http://www.yandina.com/c100InfoR3.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/110828967152?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

And this:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/0-727-33-DURITE-12V-140A-SPLIT-CHARGE-INTELLIGENT-RELAY-/110747372068#ht_564wt_698" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

This set up is cheaper, but from what i understand the batterys i am using may need a more specialist charging system to maximise there capacity.
Sterling power products do a DC to DC system, with takes over the alternator power, increases the voltage to around 14.8 (IIRC) and uses a multi stage charging programme to charge the bank up, similar to a multi charge unit you would have at home.

So, do i just get:

1) Decent split charge system, and a home charger for the batterys when needed. Because of the high capacity, and the engines split charge, in theory they will only a top up and condition? Though this depends on how flat i run them....

2) DC-DC system with split charge and multi stage charging, no extra charger needed, but relying on the alternator output? But supposed to use the alternator output max current, like 50A say, so will charge much quicker than a standalone charger, and all self contained, on totally off grid, which is what i really want. Like the Sterling AB1280.

3) Also, to add to this, i want to get a solar panel set up, and use this to charge both banks, i have my eyes on a dual setup up with remote monitoring of the charge:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/180790063442?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/110877737967?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Or this:

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=120963565171#ht_4263wt_908" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I was intending to fit the panel onto the rear luggage rack, but after our trip to the music festival the other week, i think it's more useful as rack space for the radio flyer if nothing else. So, may fit a larger panel onto the pop up roof, at least this way i can raise the roof to get the best sun for the panel, and a large capacity panel would obviously help with charging, still trying to accurately work out the sun hours in the UK, though i suspect a larger output panel may help with the lower sun levels here in the UK.

Now, i think i may get rid of my Zig unit, as i may just use the inverter for mains, and the Zig isn't man enough to fully handle the Trojans. This will allow me to use a switch bank like this maybe:

http://www.seapost.co.uk/3-switch-panel-with-battery-guage-and-cigar-lighterpower-take-off-point-1618-p.asp" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

And i will also have the battery control meters housed in place of the zig under the bed where my 240V sockets and propex outlet are. Once i had decided where i am going, i will redo the power feed to the fridge for a thicker cable maybe, though i think it's ok.

But i think i want a heavy duty fuse bank and distribution unit so i can run the fat power cables to and from the batteries, and use this as a common point for earths etc. I am still looking for a suitable unit, spent all my time trying to research the charging system, so will look for this a little later.

Will be looking into venting these batteries, or fitting into boxes, as they will vent gas when charging, don't know if this will be a problem or not.

Useful reading and inspiration on this subject found in these sites here:

http://deepredmotorhome.com/electrics.php" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/WestAdvisorView?langId=-1&storeId=11151&catalogId=10001&page=Marine-Wire" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

http://www.motorhomefacts.com/forum-83.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

http://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=19562" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

http://caravanersforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=12915&start=60" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

http://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=17258" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=330009&start=0" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

http://www.motorhomefacts.com/forums-viewforum.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

http://www.solar-electric.com/electrical.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

http://www.google.co.uk/search?sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8&q=4+AWG+Marine+Battery+Cable" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I'll post up some more details as i progress along

Cheers!

Alistair

 

[aogrady]

Hi!,

Not much to report, good and bad, firstly the good, fitted some new door seals, fitted well, not used any spray as yet as wanted to see how they would settle in after a few weeks, not adjusted the door, a good firm push is needed, they are quite tight!

Aweful fit on the sliding door, i tried fitted it all ways, eventually it broke, and it seems like 6 inches too short on one side? Might have another faff tomorrow, or just buy another one, this was a JK one i think, i have had it for ages. I know the aperture isn't square, but as least 2 sides should be the same!

Then the bad. Took it over to Carl's @ Beetlebank the other week to investigate some bubbling i had noticed, turns out it was coming in from the inside, there is a spot on the sill where the drain hole is that looked like a flake of paint, till i picked it and it came away. And there is the rear corner too. Gutted.

He is hopefully squeezing it in before Xmas as he has some other resto's booked. If he has the space he is letting me bring it in a bit earlier so i can get all the rust off and sort it properly underneath, something sadly lacking on my part for some time, but poor weather and poorly GF during her pregnancy stopped any significant work being done to the bus for like 12 months - it took me over 6 months to do the interior work and propex, fridge, you could have rattled that out in a weekend. In that time, the bus has suffered in a few places, it was set in for some time, but maybe if i had treated it sooner...but didnt know it was like that I have been talking about it for ages, but what with everything going on.....

I am on the look out for best quality sills, in the meanwhile, Carl can make up repairs for the corners.

Looking forward to getting it in, getting it rust free once and for all. Gonna remove the bellypans too and treat and rustproof underneath, and make them removable for inspection.

Cheers!

Alistair

 

[Dirty Harry]

Hi Alistair.

So many plans/work and so little time, that exactly my problem
Where did the front door seals came from?, my mate bought some for his van but the fitting was horrible and the doors won't shut :roll:
Is your cooler/solar panel setup already working?

Cheers, Harry

 

[aogrady]

Hi Alistair.

So many plans/work and so little time, that exactly my problem
Where did the front door seals came from?, my mate bought some for his van but the fitting was horrible and the doors won't shut :roll:
Is your cooler/solar panel setup already working?

Cheers, Harry

Hi DH!

Yeah, no time, not much of a summer here in the UK, we had one good week a few weeks back, i was working, as i sit and look at the rain outside......nothing done today....and that's our summer gone i reckon.

My door seals were from Status IIRC, as long as they are the grey type of rubber, they are a good fit around the door, my door it tight to close, a firm push when closing is ok, they will settle it, and i will use some adhesive spray to fitx the corners, i didn't do this until i was happy with the fit - didn't want to glue it in and find the door wouldn't close. The bottom of the door at the corner near the step and front clip is where it is tight, may well settle, ar a shave of the rear odf the seal - or maybe will fit once glued in place more. Can take some pictures of the corners/other areas etc if you like to see the fit? (when the rain stops) :roll: :lol:

No progress on the solar panel yet, still not ordered it now the weather has turned. I am finishing off my research on the dc-dc charger and the Trojan battery install. There is some crossover of the systems, so just trying to sort out the best way of combining the solar panels and charger into the dc-dc set up.

Think i may go for a larger panel, fitted on the pop top bit instead of the luggage rack, more of a stealth install on the rack, but cant angle for the best sun, and stops you using the rack completly, so a 100w panel maybe, or x2 80's maybe. I'll get there.

What do you think about the batteries and the potential setup? Not had any comments so far :msn4:

Cheers!

Alistair

 

[Dirty Harry]

Can take some pictures of the corners/other areas etc if you like to see the fit? (when the rain stops)

You should come over to Holland past week was 25 to 30 degrees and today we got 38 degrees pfff...

 

[aogrady]

Can take some pictures of the corners/other areas etc if you like to see the fit? (when the rain stops)

You should come over to Holland past week was 25 to 30 degrees and today we got 38 degrees pfff...

Ha! Rain stopped, sun out, off for a walk on the beach with the little ones......whilst it's still sunny!

Alistair

 

[aogrady]

Hi,

Here is the latest major update. I have been looking at rustproofing the undersides for many a time, and had decided to just waxoil it, and deal with it at a later date, it needed doing, as was very dry, with some areas rusting, and i wanted to address the rust through on the sill and rear corner which had appeared.

After talking to a friend to see if i could rent a little space in his lock up so i could get it done, I decided (again) to just get it done properly once and for all, he was available, so arranged to get everything i wanted doing to the van done once and for all. The first major task was stripping all loose underseal, flaky rust and treating any bodywork as and when it needed addressing. More info on the bodywork further down, but here is the rustproofing bit

This is what it looked like prior to starting

I researched quite a bit the various products i wanted to use, and decided on a multi stage selection of products. Firstly, a rust converter, this sorts the rust at a molecular level

http://www.rust.co.uk/content/9/6-fe-123-award-winning-rust-converter/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

This has been used on all areas where the original underseal has flaked off leaving dry rusty areas, and it has been used on the entire underside of the van, and all suspension components, brake drum and back plates, beam, chassis, sills, bellypans, pedal box. etc etc. Additionally this has also been injected in all box sections of the bellypans, chassis, sills, dog legs, front valence etc.

It goes on white, and changed to black once the process has cured the rust. I had used 5lts of this.

The bellypans were solid, bar one small hole due to the lack of underseal on one small area maybe the size of a 5p once cleaned up. A inspection panel was let into the underside of each bellypan to allow for inspection into the chassis and sills, and to decide if they needed taking off to address any rust issues. This area was found to be in very good condition, with only light surface rusting on the insides. This was treated with the rust converter sprayed inside, a inspection cover plate was then made up, treated, screwed in place and seam sealed - to allow for future inspection into the bellypans should the need ever arise.

Rear arch not finished yet in the photo......

http://www.rust.co.uk/content/6/8-epoxy-mastic-rust-proofing-paint/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Second stage, again, the entire undersides, chassis etc as above, were treated with this once the rust converter had cured, this in itself is a multi stage product, with base and hardener. It is available in different colours, I used black, though grey was ordered, i think i prefer the black. As it was used over the rust converter, this is the ultimate combo. I had bought a chassis pack kit, which covers 10m2, enough for the bus.

This will not flake, peel or blister - even under water. Resists oils, salt water and mechanical damage. Tough penetrating coating that is more flexible than the steel itself. Has six times the penetration and adhesion of single pack products.

A finally, a rustproofing wax.

http://www.rust.co.uk/products/product/487952/0001-mil-spec-transparent-rust-proofing-wax/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

MIL-SPEC Transparent Rust proofing wax is suitable for hidden cavities or open surfaces. MIL-SPEC penetrates deep into the steel displacing moisture and setting as a soft waxy rust preventing barrier. Remains permanently flexible. Is able to penetrate hidden dirt and existing rust making it the perfect maintenance wax. Self repairing non drying film. When appled to open surfaces MIL-SPEC rust proofing wax forms a dry non sticky surface. Rustbuster MIL-SPEC rust proofing wax is amber/transparent in colour.

In total, the van has had 15+lts of cavity wax injected into all box sections, sills, chassis, nooks and crannys, doors, tailgate, sliding door, engine lid etc.

I have stonechip, and debating whether to paint up bodycolour or not, or even use a colour tint able bed liner for additional protection, not that it needs it. Something like this:

http://www.qpaints.co.uk/u-pol-raptor-liner-black-tintable-4l.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

This details the rustproofing, now onto the welding and bodywork and paint.

Cheers!

Alistair

 

[r73]

You've been busy! Looks like an excellent level of protection, very thorough, must make you feel a lot happier about driving on our winter roads now
Great job!

 

[gninnam]

Great job

Like the inspection panels as well - very good idea

 

[aogrady]

You've been busy! Looks like an excellent level of protection, very thorough, must make you feel a lot happier about driving on our winter roads now
Great job!

Well, Bob's been busy, he did the underneath and the bodywork. yes, much happier about using it on the winter roads, it should have really been done years ago, family got in the way though the past few years, and we use it as a daily

Cheers!

Alistair

 

[aogrady]

Great job

Like the inspection panels as well - very good idea

We decided it would be a shame to remove the bellypans unless really necessary, especially as the signs were that they were totally solid, but we also wanted to make proper sure the inner section was correctly treated - you have seen the horrors that lurk behind bellypans, even on dry state imports, so this was a area i was keen to do well. A letterbox size hole was ideal to inspect the insides, and be able to rustproof and wax, without resorting to major grinding and removal of the bellypans.

Cheers!

Alistair

 

[aogrady]

Here now is the detailed work required to the body, which was also done by Bob Burrows at Resto Haus in Barnstaple, Devon

Where the sill had bubbly paint, once sanded down was found to be holed, (aside from the hole i poked in) so new metal was let in to the original sills, along where the drain hole was missing, retaining the original look and spot welds etc.

Near side sill had some blisters and poor paint so was also done, though not finished off in this shot, a little black paint around

The outer lip of the rear arch had had a scrape all along the edge since i had it, this was painted and treated, and blended in around the other chips and dents directly above, again, trying to retain the buses character

A small hole in the lower rear arch welded up and treated, the return under the arch was bent after a blow out in the states years back, this was straightened as much as possible

A blister on the front side of the rear arch was also done.

And the whole area of the lower sills, wheelarch etc were blended in.

Nearside dog leg had some bubby paint

Sliding door cover was dented, and was the wrong colour, and was flaking off paint on the lower edge

The was some rust where paint had flaked off on the door runner etc, so was also treated at the same time. Again, a little area above this track but below the vent had broken paint, but this was left.

The inner front wheelarch sill closing panel had a small hole, again, new metal let in and finish off with the above treatment.

Rear corner had rusted through, new metal let in, treated and painted in

http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg208/aogrady/Westy%20SO70/DSC_0491.jpg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

New bumper overider rubbers and edging trim now fitted, bumpers machine polished, with a lovely patina and shine on the front bumper. 8)

Bellypan treated, and new fixings installed as the old bolts were missing or stripped.

Front footwells treated and repainted with small pin hole in drivers side welded up

Any loose or missing seam sealer has been replaced and painted over.

The front doors have had the sound proofing flashing fitted that i used on the interior in the last update, then cavity waxing of the door inner, then finish with new plastic vapour guard all sealed in. The brown is the wax, not rust. The doors close nice, and sound more "solid"

A area inside the battery tray was also finished off, though not shown in this picture (Before shot)

Once all paint has cured, the entire body has had a machine polish with cutting compound to bring the OG dead paint back to as shiny as it will get. Now, the L87 pearle white paint is a exact match, but as most of the panels appear to have aged, or the paint is thinner where the primer is starting to show, you can see a little where the fresh colour is. This differs from panel to panel. It was a tough decision as to where to paint, and all the areas were blended in and around as much of the OG paint. dents, marks and chips, as i wanted to retain as much of the patina as possible. A full respray can always be on the cards another day. /the ratty front bumper came up a treat with a lovely patina'd shine which i love. A little grey has started to come through where it's thin, but this is in areas i knew about anyway.

I also wanted a new stainless steel stock looking exhaust and new twin Weber 34 ICT carbs which were also fitted, along with new engine mountings and new bolts for the mustache bar.

More pictures of the finished work on the carbs etc soon. Once i get it running..... :roll: :evil:

Above all, the work tackled the immediate issues needed doing, with the rust and the rustproofing and preserving the underside, and repainting areas on the outside which received treatment, thing is, is where do you stop when you try to tidy it up, trying to retain as much of the original characture without repaint the lot? Overall a very sympathetic restoration of the undercarriage which will hopefully last well into the future, certainly as long as i own the bus, rust shouldn't now be a issue.

Cheers!

Alistair

 

[robins]

nice work mate

 

[r73]

good work mate - exactly what id like to get done - i try and avoid the rain and salt at the moment but id really like to get stuff done so i can use the bus more in the winter - sounds like i should plan a trip down to resto haus and stay at my brother in laws place in braunton