aogrady
Well-known member
myvanway 69 said:
Cheers, trailer tucked away, need to fit replacement wheels (got), maybe a lick of paint. Waiting for Gadget Boy to get the towbars sorted........
Cheers,
Alistair
FS Alistair's 1970 Westy SO70 Campmobile - San Lorenzo, Cali
- Thread starter aogrady
- Start date
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Cheers, trailer tucked away, need to fit replacement wheels (got), maybe a lick of paint. Waiting for Gadget Boy to get the towbars sorted........
Cheers,
Alistair
aogrady
Well-known member
Hi,
Not much to report, though i would give it another polish, clean the engine and area etc.....not thinking that it would take hours....anyway, turned out well, always impressed with the shine, even on the old paint (albeit machine cut and polished some months back)
I use Collinite 476s, highly recommended, was shiny when it was mopped and polished using Autoglym super resin polish, even more now with the 476 - also no white powder everywhere and even shines the rubber bits, even the old side reflectors came up well. Supposedly lasts for a year, (though we all like polishing don't we?!) certainly very good water beading, even after multiple washes, it's detergent resistant, bird crap wipes off easily too (damn seagull waiting for me to finish!)
Though as it is a wax product, the slight cutting effect of super resin polish, or t-cut can be better if you need to remove a mark (or blue scuffs down the side of your rear bumper from reversing into a traffic cone... :roll: )
But then you use the 476 to shine up nicely anyway. I'll keep the SRP and T-Cut for little scuffs, but it's unlikely to get used much now.
I use Autoglym Machine Clean to clean up the oil mist and dirt around the engine bay, sprayed everything, then use a stiff brush for the stubborn bits, works well, and reasonable gentle.
Also managed to get rid of a load of glue residue from a sticker i had on my fuel filler cap, turps substitute softened the glue, and then it rubbed right off after a few moments. Though now, i quite fancy another sticker there now... :roll:
Also used the same rag to wipe off a little Ankhor Wax residue from the hubcaps, and polished those too. They are pitted and have a little missing chrome, but shine up well, i have a few spares in case these get more rusty..
Anyway, a few piccys:
I like the moss on the westy window!
Overall, reasonable productive afternoon, and if the weather stays well, as i have a few days off, i think we'll go camp overnight somewhere in Cornwall.
Not much to report, though i would give it another polish, clean the engine and area etc.....not thinking that it would take hours....anyway, turned out well, always impressed with the shine, even on the old paint (albeit machine cut and polished some months back)
I use Collinite 476s, highly recommended, was shiny when it was mopped and polished using Autoglym super resin polish, even more now with the 476 - also no white powder everywhere and even shines the rubber bits, even the old side reflectors came up well. Supposedly lasts for a year, (though we all like polishing don't we?!) certainly very good water beading, even after multiple washes, it's detergent resistant, bird crap wipes off easily too (damn seagull waiting for me to finish!)
Though as it is a wax product, the slight cutting effect of super resin polish, or t-cut can be better if you need to remove a mark (or blue scuffs down the side of your rear bumper from reversing into a traffic cone... :roll: )
But then you use the 476 to shine up nicely anyway. I'll keep the SRP and T-Cut for little scuffs, but it's unlikely to get used much now.
I use Autoglym Machine Clean to clean up the oil mist and dirt around the engine bay, sprayed everything, then use a stiff brush for the stubborn bits, works well, and reasonable gentle.
Also managed to get rid of a load of glue residue from a sticker i had on my fuel filler cap, turps substitute softened the glue, and then it rubbed right off after a few moments. Though now, i quite fancy another sticker there now... :roll:
Also used the same rag to wipe off a little Ankhor Wax residue from the hubcaps, and polished those too. They are pitted and have a little missing chrome, but shine up well, i have a few spares in case these get more rusty..
Anyway, a few piccys:
I like the moss on the westy window!
Overall, reasonable productive afternoon, and if the weather stays well, as i have a few days off, i think we'll go camp overnight somewhere in Cornwall.
aogrady
Well-known member
Hi!
Thank you! Loving the 476 - it's my new found favourite thing, though might invest in a machine polisher - my arms all pumped up! Feel the burn!!
It's lovely and sunny now, so when the little ones wake up, we're off to the beach!
Cheers,
Alistair
Thank you! Loving the 476 - it's my new found favourite thing, though might invest in a machine polisher - my arms all pumped up! Feel the burn!!
It's lovely and sunny now, so when the little ones wake up, we're off to the beach!
Cheers,
Alistair
who?1
Well-known member
aogrady said:
We plan on hitting Wooly again this weekend, weather and customers! Permitting.
Matt
aogrady
Well-known member
who? said:
Hi Matt,
Nice one, give me a bell if you do, not sure if i am working this weekend though, my brain is dead today, only been off for 2 days...
Cheers,
Alistair
aogrady
Well-known member
Hi,
Got some vintage plate surrounds from the states, these are from the mid 60's, I haven't be able to find out what the dealer sold - but my bus was shipped to Washington D.C, it ended up in California, over 2000 miles away when it shipped over to the UK.
The frames are in very good nice, little marks and no damage.
I also got a NOS JMR Performance Products alloy crank pulley - so at least I can get the timing correct now! Got a good quality distributor clamp as the chrome empi one is make of chocolate and wont tighten enough. I have the original distributor, matched to my AE twin port, running Pertronix, I also bought a good repro vac dizzy, so make use the same brand electronics inside, or the Pertronix if it'll fix, and perhaps keep the OG one as a backup. I'll see what runs best, once the OG one and Pertronix are timed correctly.
I would really like to fit the new frames, and my original USA plates in the usual posistion, and run with the UK plates in the windows - or would this be asking for trouble? :msn4:
I'll fit the new pulley when my Westfalia towbar comes (whenever it arrives from Gadgetboy :?: ) As I'll have to remove the rear valance, bumper etc anyway.
Got some vintage plate surrounds from the states, these are from the mid 60's, I haven't be able to find out what the dealer sold - but my bus was shipped to Washington D.C, it ended up in California, over 2000 miles away when it shipped over to the UK.
The frames are in very good nice, little marks and no damage.
I also got a NOS JMR Performance Products alloy crank pulley - so at least I can get the timing correct now! Got a good quality distributor clamp as the chrome empi one is make of chocolate and wont tighten enough. I have the original distributor, matched to my AE twin port, running Pertronix, I also bought a good repro vac dizzy, so make use the same brand electronics inside, or the Pertronix if it'll fix, and perhaps keep the OG one as a backup. I'll see what runs best, once the OG one and Pertronix are timed correctly.
I would really like to fit the new frames, and my original USA plates in the usual posistion, and run with the UK plates in the windows - or would this be asking for trouble? :msn4:
I'll fit the new pulley when my Westfalia towbar comes (whenever it arrives from Gadgetboy :?: ) As I'll have to remove the rear valance, bumper etc anyway.
aogrady
Well-known member
Hi,
Thinking about going for a cleaner look on the outside and inside, so for the time being removed a few aged stickers from the rear window, but put a new one on... 8)
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Now thinking about the interior....
Cheers,
Alistair
Thinking about going for a cleaner look on the outside and inside, so for the time being removed a few aged stickers from the rear window, but put a new one on... 8)
Now thinking about the interior....
Cheers,
Alistair
Dirty Harry
Well-known member
Looks good Alistair!
Though job on the inside removing stickers
Though job on the inside removing stickers
aogrady
Well-known member
Dirty Harry said:Looks good Alistair!
Though job on the inside removing stickers
Cheers DH!
Yeah, will leave the ceiling for the time being. Thinking of a retrim, but want to crack on with the solar and split charge system.....thinking less is more, time to de clutter a bit
Cheers!
Alistair
aogrady
Well-known member
Hi,
OK, now i have started to collect bits for the solar setup, i have the 80W panel which will be fixed onto the rear roof rack section. Here it is:
Spec:
Still in 2 minds if i should drill holes in the roof and rivinut it, but means buying a tool and bits and pieces, spending £45+ for the sake of 4 holes. I'm not too keen on the original fixing method of the long fat screws directly into the roof.... :|
Anyway, so i'll remove the rear section, remove the metal bars, strengthen the area where the fixing rivets go, and fit new hardwood bench slats - though i have been looking at stainless p clips with rubber inside bit that i could use with alloy brackets mounted to the solar panel, this way i could use the original metal slats. The hardwood with some teak oil would look pretty cool, finished off with stainless cap head bolts, but most of it will be hidden by the panel...
Also i am keen to fit some kind of adjustment to the panel, so it can be tilted up to make the best use of the sun, only tilt one way though. I have found some stainless steel hinges, friction based - adjustable, with a 25kg loading, the panel only weighs 9kg, so more than up to the job.
Then comes the wiring and the fitting of the deep cycle Trojan traction batterys, all 210aH of them. Trying to find a battery box suitable to house them, and vent them too. Found a good price on some 35mm2 thick multicore flexible battery cable. Will be re-doing all the split charge system too.
I have a good MPPT regulator on it's way, with LCD screen, tells me current, charge, voltage, battery capacity etc, but i am backing this up with another meter which tells me a little more info, and i can place this in a better position.
More updates as I go along
Cheers!
Alistair
OK, now i have started to collect bits for the solar setup, i have the 80W panel which will be fixed onto the rear roof rack section. Here it is:
Spec:
Still in 2 minds if i should drill holes in the roof and rivinut it, but means buying a tool and bits and pieces, spending £45+ for the sake of 4 holes. I'm not too keen on the original fixing method of the long fat screws directly into the roof.... :|
Anyway, so i'll remove the rear section, remove the metal bars, strengthen the area where the fixing rivets go, and fit new hardwood bench slats - though i have been looking at stainless p clips with rubber inside bit that i could use with alloy brackets mounted to the solar panel, this way i could use the original metal slats. The hardwood with some teak oil would look pretty cool, finished off with stainless cap head bolts, but most of it will be hidden by the panel...
Also i am keen to fit some kind of adjustment to the panel, so it can be tilted up to make the best use of the sun, only tilt one way though. I have found some stainless steel hinges, friction based - adjustable, with a 25kg loading, the panel only weighs 9kg, so more than up to the job.
Then comes the wiring and the fitting of the deep cycle Trojan traction batterys, all 210aH of them. Trying to find a battery box suitable to house them, and vent them too. Found a good price on some 35mm2 thick multicore flexible battery cable. Will be re-doing all the split charge system too.
I have a good MPPT regulator on it's way, with LCD screen, tells me current, charge, voltage, battery capacity etc, but i am backing this up with another meter which tells me a little more info, and i can place this in a better position.
More updates as I go along
Cheers!
Alistair
creationblue
Well-known member
Interesting work there mate. I ran my LB down the other weekend when we were away without hookup, so I got one of these to try out http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/1702945.pdf" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; only 15W but I didnt want to spend £££s on an experiment.........It fits nicely in the sunroof space when not in use then on the luggage rack and connected to the LB via its croc clips (tho will wire up some connectors soon).
I think half the problem with LBs is getting them fully charged in the 1st place, most of us only have a small capacity battery charger that just wont fully charge a high capacity LB, my 15W panel should replace what I use during the day, which is mainly the radio, only other thing in use is tap (occasionally), light (rarely) and DVD player (has a battery and is charged when driving so not much usage)
I'll watch with interest 8)
I think half the problem with LBs is getting them fully charged in the 1st place, most of us only have a small capacity battery charger that just wont fully charge a high capacity LB, my 15W panel should replace what I use during the day, which is mainly the radio, only other thing in use is tap (occasionally), light (rarely) and DVD player (has a battery and is charged when driving so not much usage)
I'll watch with interest 8)
aogrady
Well-known member
creationblue said:
Hi,
You're right about the chargers, I'm going on the theory that my Trojan's wont probably be run down much, owning to the split charge when driving, and the 80W when not driving. I would have liked a 100W, or even a 130 semi flexible for the front hinging part, but didnt fancy the price of these, and running extra cable and the posible change of the wire failing due to movement up and down on the front hinge area.
I should have enough battery monitoring to keep a good eye on things, but if i find my energy consumption is more than the split charger and the panel (doubt it) i can alway use somelike like a 12A charger
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/130554789237?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Though with the capacity i have, a higher amp unit may be better
20A
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/140986796773?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
25A power supply and charger
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/281112459813?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
30A
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/130839531150?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
If it stops raining enough, I'll place the panel on the roof and see how it sits!
Cheers!
Alistair
aogrady
Well-known member
Hi,
OK, offered up the panel onto the roof to see how it fits, and where to progress with brackets... It's not until you stick a straight edge on the rack, you realise the curvature. This doesn't help the install, I think i will remove the metal slats and bond the panel onto the roof, via alloy brackets and the hinge system, still thinking about the final parts i will need to order.
Anyway, onto some pictures. It is just placed on top of the rack rails to give me a idea of placement. Ignore the cardboard under the panel, it was to make it easier to slide on and off the roof, was only my pair of hands to do it.....
It was a sunny day. so hooked up the multimeter, just over 20V, so will see how it regulates down when the MPPT regulator turns up. I gained 1v nearly by tilting towards the sun.
Onwards and upwards!
Alistair
OK, offered up the panel onto the roof to see how it fits, and where to progress with brackets... It's not until you stick a straight edge on the rack, you realise the curvature. This doesn't help the install, I think i will remove the metal slats and bond the panel onto the roof, via alloy brackets and the hinge system, still thinking about the final parts i will need to order.
Anyway, onto some pictures. It is just placed on top of the rack rails to give me a idea of placement. Ignore the cardboard under the panel, it was to make it easier to slide on and off the roof, was only my pair of hands to do it.....
It was a sunny day. so hooked up the multimeter, just over 20V, so will see how it regulates down when the MPPT regulator turns up. I gained 1v nearly by tilting towards the sun.
Onwards and upwards!
Alistair
baz1875
Well-known member
I am enjoying reading through this thread its really giving me some great ideas for the new bus. do you mind me asking where you got your seat belts from? its one of the first jobs ill be doing on the new bus and want some really good quality ones and yours tick the all the boxes.
BAZ
BAZ
Dirty Harry
Well-known member
That solar panel fits great, in the lugage rack
That got me thinking
That got me thinking
aogrady
Well-known member
baz1875 said:
Hi Baz.
Thanks, glad it's of some use to you!
I got the seatbelts from here:
https://www.seatbeltplanet.com/seatbelts-and-accessories/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Steve Pekrul, Sales Manager
Tel Toll Free: (877) 435-6363
[email protected]
Visit us at http://www.seatbeltplanet.com" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
The guy i contacted was very helpful, especially dealing with a international order, they are based in the USA. They made me a set up to the lenght i want, with the buckle and fixings i wanted. Not the cheapest, especially once the import tax etc got stuck on, it ended up more than a set sourced in the UK, but i wanted something slightly different, aircraft style buckles, but with modern 3 point retractable front belts.
This is what i ordered:
x2 Retractable 3-Point Our Classic Chrome Lift
Color: 30-Tan
Retractor Web Length & Buckle Options: 140 Inch w/20 Inch Fixed
Shoulder Mount Loops: Regular Shoulder Loop
Choose Buckle: Chrome Lift Latch Buckle
x5 Hardware Kit #1
x1 static 3 point
Chrome Lift Lever w/Floppy End
Color: 30-Tan
Choose Buckle: Chrome Lift Latch Buckle
x2 lap belt
Classic" Chrome Lift Latch Style
Length: 60 inch
Color: 30-Tan
Choose Buckle: Chrome Lift Latch Buckle
Cheers!
Alistair
aogrady
Well-known member
Dirty Harry said:That solar panel fits great, in the lugage rack
That got me thinking
Hi DH,
Yes, it fits well, a 100w would be my best choice, but would be too big and not fit, unless the rack was removed all together...
Feel free to fit one!
Cheers!
Alistair
baz1875
Well-known member
Nice one ill start having a look into it they do look a lot better quality than the ones I've already looked at..
Baz
Baz
aogrady
Well-known member
Hi,
Got the regulator, though not much progress fitting parts, off looking for bits to fit to rack as i have time over the weekend, not sure if i will get it up and running though this weekend..
A few pics:
The solar panel comes with 5m 4mm with MC4 ends, the regulator has some crimp terminals included, but doesn't say the maximum thickness i can fit? Would like to fit the largest possible to reduce any voltage drop?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/130549038710?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
I also bought a dual display DC 120V 500A Battery Meter Charge Discharge Indicator With Shunt
It can measure Forward (Positive) and Reverse (Negative) current.
Dual display for Voltage (V)
Current (A), Power (W)
Ampere-hour (Ah),
Working Hours (H), Charging Time, Discharging Time
Battery capacity (%)
Flexible On-line calibration function, calibrate Voltage and amps reading easily.
It's a really cheap unit, small, and should give me a reasonable clue as to charge, I can always upgrade to something better if i ever need it.
Any tips or thoughts on fitting? Does the shunt have to be mounted directly to the battery, or can i fit a shorter lead, away from the battery, say a foot away, as i need to box in the Trojans...
Whilst i was looking for bits, picked up x2 5M led strip lights to fit on the roof, i'll see how i get on with these, may well use more of this type of thing externally, you can get waterproof ones too.
As I want to redo the current small relay split charge system, i was wondering about the 't Max system, anyone use this?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/110828967152?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Will post more progress as i go....
Cheers,
Alistair
Got the regulator, though not much progress fitting parts, off looking for bits to fit to rack as i have time over the weekend, not sure if i will get it up and running though this weekend..
A few pics:
The solar panel comes with 5m 4mm with MC4 ends, the regulator has some crimp terminals included, but doesn't say the maximum thickness i can fit? Would like to fit the largest possible to reduce any voltage drop?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/130549038710?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
I also bought a dual display DC 120V 500A Battery Meter Charge Discharge Indicator With Shunt
It can measure Forward (Positive) and Reverse (Negative) current.
Dual display for Voltage (V)
Current (A), Power (W)
Ampere-hour (Ah),
Working Hours (H), Charging Time, Discharging Time
Battery capacity (%)
Flexible On-line calibration function, calibrate Voltage and amps reading easily.
It's a really cheap unit, small, and should give me a reasonable clue as to charge, I can always upgrade to something better if i ever need it.
Any tips or thoughts on fitting? Does the shunt have to be mounted directly to the battery, or can i fit a shorter lead, away from the battery, say a foot away, as i need to box in the Trojans...
Whilst i was looking for bits, picked up x2 5M led strip lights to fit on the roof, i'll see how i get on with these, may well use more of this type of thing externally, you can get waterproof ones too.
As I want to redo the current small relay split charge system, i was wondering about the 't Max system, anyone use this?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/110828967152?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Will post more progress as i go....
Cheers,
Alistair
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