FS Alistair's 1970 Westy SO70 Campmobile - San Lorenzo, Cali

[Dirty Harry]

Nice updates Alistair!, just noticed your CB, got a nice old Philips CB that needs a place and a magnetic antenna they are real fun!

 

[aogrady]

Nice updates Alistair!, just noticed your CB, got a nice old Philips CB that needs a place and a magnetic antenna they are real fun!

Hi,

Cheers DH! I would like to redo some of the wiring up front, the stereo wiring i am not happy with, so will do the lot next time. I have some component set of speakers to fit into the kick panels, with crossovers and tweeters, so more updates next week!

Cheers!

Alistair

 

[aogrady]

Hi,

Did a bit more today, in-between the rain, i have bought a selection of LED bulbs, so tackled the Westy light first. I am using x3 48 SMD LED units.

Before:

Insides:

During:

Finished:

The led's are a whiter white than the bulbs, which are 10W each, 30W total load, the leds are much less, probably only 5 watts max for the lot.

I also used 120 SMD LEDS for the front indicators, which are 3.6W, and a 42SMD LED set for the rear, which i will fit later once i get a resistor in the circuit, or just wire a 21W bulb for a load somewhere, then they will flash correctly.

Quite pleased with the Westy light, i may use some more of these in stead of the standard sized bulb i have used in the indicators, may get a spare set of indicator bodies and mod them for x3 48 SMD LED panels.

I also replace the pedal rubbers, and side step rubbers, cleaned up the surface rust a little, and ankor waxed it all.

But having a absolute nightmare changing the reversing light rubbers, wish i hadn't started, off to have another go now the rain has stopped.

Cheers!

Alistair

 

[aogrady]

Hi,

Tried a different method with the reversing lights, all fixed now, but broke the lens when screwing it back in, found a loose wire on the indicators, and in faffing with the fuses, now the westy light has stopped.

Got bored of that, so cracked on with the sink unit, took out the water tank, and cooler, and fitted a Waeco CR50 12V compressor fridge, so nice cold drinks and ice cream! It's a bit smaller than the original cooler box, but you need to allow for ventilation, and i didnt want to shorten or widen the current unit, as want to keep it all stock looking.

Temporary fitting.......

Rear of sink unit and back of fridge....

Took a while to remove the inner door, as Westfalia seem to like putting quite a large amount of nails on the insides to hold the inner door on.

A little fettling to adjust some gaps, but want to retain airflow. May open up the hole in the floor where the sink pipes went for additional ventilation, I could also use this hole to let the fridge defrost water drain away.

Swapped over the hinges and refitted into the unit, and it looks like this

I am ok with it being a double door, but may look into a additional sliding hinge system, in which the fridge outer door is fixed to the inner door but a sliding mechanism, so when you open the main door, it in turn opens the fridge. But looking at the angles, i am not sure if this will work I also like the additional safety catches the Waeco has, you lift the handle and it lifts a pair of catches top and bottom, as well as the magnetic seal, so as long as the door has clicked, it will never open on it's own. The to catch also has a position where the door will lock open in a vent position.

Just need some thick cable to power it, as only 12V and the leisure battery is in the other end of the van, thicker cable will reduce any potential voltage drop. Just need to do some sums regarding the zig unit's power output for the fridge, may just go direct to the battery, via fuses.
Will get this done tomorrow as i have a day of, then retrim the inside of the cooler box and inner door - cork of course

It's a low power fridge unit, and will run via a solar panel, so once i am happy with the setup, i hope to look into a solar setup for charging the battery and running the fridge. May well change the lesiure battery, as though it is quality, and weights over 30 kilos i may add - it's 80ah, but fills the battery tray, will see if i can get a 100ah instead, but same size.
I want to retain the battery in the same spot, or even maybe a additional one under the bed if there is space next to the propex, this will increase the off-grid time running of the fridge, prior to getting the solar set up. In theory, a 80W panel shpuld be enough on a reasonable day to keep everything running and topped up, so may well never need on site electric ever.

OK, once i am happy with the fit of this, i will move onto the gas hob and grill fitment. I need to get a new worktop made up and trimmed on the edge, and line the inside of the wooden unit to protect from the grill heat. Would like to use copper sheet folded as easier to work with than stainless, and looks just a little nicer than alloy Still not 100% decided on a grill, for the extra work involved in doing it, i may just buy a nice glass topped domino hob with wok, and forget the grill - but hankering after proper toast in the morning....

Then, mod the unit and bulkhead so i can swing the whole shooting match out of the van for cooking! Though i may need to strengthen the base of the unit, certainly fix some additional brackets etc due to the basic glue in a groove construction (albeit with long air gun type nails)

More updates soon!

Alistair

 

[Dirty Harry]

Ok this cooler/solar panel setup has got my attention, a change of the original cooler was already longer on my mind but this looks very interesting.
Where did you get that cooler from, it fits perfect!

 

[aogrady]

Ok this cooler/solar panel setup has got my attention, a change of the original cooler was already longer on my mind but this looks very interesting.
Where did you get that cooler from, it fits perfect!

Hi DH!

The fridge is a Waeco Coolmatic CR50-E. I bought it from here:

http://www.xtremevan.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=5084" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Spec from the website:

Model CoolMatic CR-50 Chrome Compressor Fridge
Gross Capacity Approx. 48 litres including 5-litre freezer compartment
Voltage 12/24 volts DC
Average Power Consumption Approx. 40 watts
Current Consumption (12 volts DC): 1.4 Ah/h at +25°C ambient temperature,
1.7 Ah/h at +32°C ambient temperature,
both at +5°C interior temperature and -18°C in the freezer compartment
Insulation Full foam insulation in CFC-free polyurethane foam
System Fully hermetic Danfoss BD35F compressor with integrated control electronics, low-voltage protection, electronic fuse/automatic reverse pole protection, dynamically ventilated wire tube condenser, mechanical, continuously variable thermostat

Material Stainless steel fittings, plastic interior, plastic door frame, body with coated metal frame
Colour Body: black, door frame: silver, door panel: matt silver (brushed stainless steel appearance)

Built In Dimension (WxHxD) Without door:
380 x 534 x 447 mm
With standard frame:
384 x 536 x 447 mm
With flush-mount frame:
406 x 536 x 495 mm
Weight 19 kg

Interior light, door with magnetic seal, variable door mounts and locks right/left, door with double lock (top/bottom) and dual function (locking/ventilation), separately insulated 3-star freezer compartment, additional, foamed rear-wall evaporator in the interior, easy-to-change decor panel
Test Marks TÜV/GS, e-approved to 2004/104/EC (Automotive EMC Directive)


You can also buy a frame to build in which looks really smart, you can have it flush fitting, but as i wanted the original door in place, using the original magnetic strip, i opted to just have the fridge without a fitting kit. In my calculations, i have allowed a little gap all the way round, which i can get a seal to cover, or just leave as it for ventilation. I could have modified the sink unit to fit a larger fridge, but wanted to retain the standard outward dimensions, and wanted plenty of room for a hob to fit on top also.

The fridge has the provision for screw fixings in the sides to secure, along with the ability to fit a drain for the defrost water, as the compressor is mounted on top along with the condenser as you can see in the pictures. I have the hole in the floor blocked off when i fitted the cork floor, but easy to punch a hole in to allow for the fridge drain, and for additional ventilation, though i dont think it will need anything else. I will fit a nice blanking plate to fill the hole underneath left from the original sink drain install, just allowing a grommet large enough for the drain to pass through.

Note that the fridge is just placed in the cabinet for the photo's, i need to finish trimming the cabinet, and screw the fridge in where i want it., then it will be done. And if i get really bored, will spray paint the galvanised trim around the fridge where the magnetic trim on the westy door makes contact, a matching silver paint. or buy some suitable sticky back plastic, or alloy strip, polished.

Will be using some cable like this 20mm below (may just run 10mm) to run from the leisure battery to a distribution block, then maybe a 10mm or 6mm direct to the fridge via a fuse and connector to the original thin gauge fridge wiring. With this in place, suitable power supply already in place should i want to add a amplifier to the head unit.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4-GAUGE-AWG-20mm-CAR-RED-POWER-GROUND-CABLE-CABLING-WIRING-1-METER-FREE-P-P-/170821910407?pt=UK_In_Car_Technology&hash=item27c5c77f87#ht_3446wt_776" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Using a AV type cable as the thick starter/battery cable just isn't flexible enough as the core is much more solid.

Once i had finished the fridge install, and the gas hob unit, i will be looking at a solar setup. Something along the lines of this for a charge controller for both battery's. May look into another leisure battery to double the run time, as the sun isn't as great here in the UK! :roll:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/20A-Duo-Battery-Solar-Panel-Charge-Controller-Regulator-12-24V-Remote-Meter-/110841706113?_trksid=p4340.m185&_trkparms=algo%3DDLSL%252BSIC.NPJS%26its%3DI%26itu%3DUCI%252BUA%26otn%3D10%26pmod%3D330600486655%252B330600486655%26po%3D%26ps%3D63%26clkid%3D9066593744473880078#ht_12412wt_1010" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

And once i have measured the rear pop top to find the exact size i need, i will be replacing the metal bars for hardwood, and fitted a square shaped 80W panel to the top, running the cables under the pop top down into the top of the wardrobe, and either make up a install to fit in the overhead locker - (along the lines of my Propex and Zig install under the bed) with a remote screen to monitor charge, or fit into the wardrobe

Perhaps a panel like this kit with controller:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/80W-12V-dual-battery-solar-panel-kit-for-camper-boat-with-controller-80-watt-/110877737967?pt=UK_Gadgets&hash=item19d0d403ef#ht_3663wt_908" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Or a dual setup, but on the pop top, but not keen on the extra weight, but may be handy for directing at the sun when the roof raised. I could always fit some tailgate hydraulic struts, but i will need to modify and strengthen the fibreglass.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-x-80W-solar-panel-for-boat-caravan-motorhome-camper-12v-80-watt-160W-160-watt-/290722560563?pt=UK_Gadgets&hash=item43b06a3a33#ht_2092wt_989" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

It will run direct from the solar panel also:

http://www.ra.danfoss.com/TechnicalInfo/Literature/Manuals/06/bd35f-bd35k_solar_electronic_unit_101n0400_10-45vdc_08-2011_dehcei100i602.pdf" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

More pictures to follow.....

Cheers!

Alistair

 

[rallye dale]

Fridge looks superb Alistair, will look og when your done

For cable and accesories ive used these

http://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/home" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

 

[aogrady]

Fridge looks superb Alistair, will look og when your done

For cable and accesories ive used these

http://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/home" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Thanks, just need a little more fettling and it's done, now onto the cable, i'll take a look on the site you mentioned, i think i may have seen it before, but nice to be reminded again

Cheers

Alistair

 

[creationblue]

Well thought out as always. My kitchen fridge is built in with the outter door attached to the inner with a slide mechanism, something easily available from any kitchen place I should imagine. As for the supply to the fridge your probably better off going direct to the LB via a fuse box as my Zig at least won't supply a fridge. Keep up the good work and let's hope it gets warm enough to warrant a fridge :roll:

 

[aogrady]

Well thought out as always. My kitchen fridge is built in with the outter door attached to the inner with a slide mechanism, something easily available from any kitchen place I should imagine. As for the supply to the fridge your probably better off going direct to the LB via a fuse box as my Zig at least won't supply a fridge. Keep up the good work and let's hope it gets warm enough to warrant a fridge :roll:

Hi Just,

Cheers! Yes, the sliding hinge type fitment is what i am thinking off. If you recall, I am a service engineer for Bosch Neff Siemens, and we use that type of hinge on our fridges, I'll order one up when i think on, though only problem is i will need to remove the top and bottom "click closed" system used by Waeco to fit my hinge system, and, i quite like the fact that once closed, the door wont open on it's own, and i know it's properly sealed this way.

I have now wired it directly via fuse to the leisure battery using 12 gauge power cable used for car amps. This is rated at 40A 480W, it is 5 meters in length, and as it isn't too thick, it fits well under the wardrobe and floor, exiting just at the bulkhead next to the other cable and the 2 gas pipes (one for the hob, one for the BBQ point)

I would have liked a thicker cable to guarantee no voltage drop. The fridges uses a average of 40W. I am using 12 gauge to earth the leisure battery too. In theory i should be fine, though the Waeco installation seems to indicate quite thick cable, i have found a website with current, cable thickness and length pages with a chart:

http://www.rbeelectronics.com/wtable.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

If the weather doesnt improve, at least i have the propex!

More pictures over the weekend

Cheers,

Alistair

 

[aogrady]

Hi

OK, fridge now fitted in place temporally. All fits well, tight at the rear of the unit where the gas pipes are, but i intended not to have it as close to the bulkhead as stock to allow air to flow around the rear sides for the compressor fridge.

Pic of the current fit to the bulkhead. I have at this stage not got the worktop and hob unit fitted, hopefully later in the week fingers crossed, but the impending arrival of baby boy may well delay a update!

Wiring nearly done, just need to connect up, then onto the swing out system when time (and the above allow) and a re-trim of the bulkhead too.

Then maybe new door cards etc? Oh, and wire up the component set of speakers too!

Cheers!

Alistair

 

[aogrady]

Hi,

My hob i ordered has now arrived, very pleased with the look and style of this unit. I wanted a modern look to the hob unit, but retain the overall retro feel of the OG westy wood, hence wanting to hide the fridge away behind the original door. I have no real need for a sink, i have a washing up bowl, and a little sand play bucket if needed.

As you can see, it's a domino sized hob, 2 burner, glass top edge to edge, with "floating" cast iron pan supports, stainless controls, with a large 4.3kw wok burner with wok ring, electronic ignition, as this is primarily a domestic unit, it is 240V, no problem, as i wont be using this, and will use a manual system. I may well fit it up to mains, as i have the zig unit, but it's not high on the agenda.

I have LPG jets ready to fit, and the only delay i have is trying to make up the pipework, it has a adaptor from the large mains gas size down to what looks like 8mm internal copper, though it looks like you need to solder 8mm pipe into this adaptor. Rather than spend out on blowtorch, flux and solder (which may or may not come in handy again) I will try to find some adaptors to go from the stock large size, down to the 8mm i need for the fittings i am using.

My local camper conversion shop have made me up a Vohringer ply worktop in high gloss black, with black edging, and cut it all out to my measurements for only £35, as the ply is quite dear, i figured this was a good deal, and i dont get the stress when i cut it wrong!

Just need to finish the fridge wiring, just needs connecting, and run the gas flexi to the copper pipe behind, the the BBQ gas point i will fix to the side of the sink unit. Some woodwork to the top of the unit to allow a smooth fit of the worktop. I have already used some steel angle plate the strengthen up the corners, once the worktop is fitted, it will be stronger than before
Then i can move onto the next plan for the unit, though imminent birth any day of no2 child may well delay things a bit!

Hope you like, and would appreciate your comments on how you think it looks.

Cheers!

Alistair

 

[creationblue]

Thats better than my kitchen at home 8) :lol:

Nice work!!!!

 

[aogrady]

Thats better than my kitchen at home 8) :lol:

Nice work!!!!

Hi Just,

Yeah, mine too! Hope to finish a little more over the weekend, little baby showing no signs of iminent arrrival.

Really want to move onto the swing out design, i have all the bits i need - just need a little time......

Cheers!

Alistair

 

[aogrady]

Hi,

Bit more done over the past few days, in bettween parenting, new baby arrived on Sat morning, last week.

So, fridge up first:

Corked the door inner for the fridge

Had the fridge running, cools well, too well in fact, had to turn it down, had 0C in fridge and this in the freezer!

My leisure battery is a little flat, with around 12.3 static, i had the inverter and soldering iron on for some time, and running up propex and fridge and generall fiddling around, it's on about 11.8, so really need to charge it up before we go away. When engine is running there is 13.3V at the fridge power cables, so the split charge is running ok, though would take a while as there isn't much juice in the leisure battery left.

I also redid the earth supply cable on the leisure battery, and will redo all the red power lead to and from the split charge relay to something akin to the fridge wiring.

Here is the wiring i am using. The thin guage is the original fridge wiring, with tinned ends, and the thick stuff has a direct fused feed from the leisure battery under the bed and floor up to the bulkhead bottom and out to the right of the gas pipes.

Solved the problem of the thick and thin wiring by using a 30A connector with the thick cable twised and fitted one end, along with the fridge wiring fitted into a small red bullet crimp connector, again screwed into the connector block

Finished. I used this connector as it works well, and allows me to have a voltage test point should I need to. I have more connector block, sp could use this method for other items such as LED lights etc, or I could use the 7 core 0.75mm wire i have already run under the floor on both sides of the van for leds, via the fuse box under the bed which has 6 fuses which are currently powering the propex and inverter.

One i did notice on tests was a very slight voltage drop of approx 0.10V from leisure battery to the fridge input on the connector block, I guess this isn't much to worry about??? The cable run is about 5m.

Prepaired the top of the sink unit so that the new worktop would sit flush. Cut back, all sitting flush now.

Worktop fitted, angled brackets doubled for strengh on all corners, along with the same double brackets on the front of the carcass, and on the lower corners in the base to reduce flex, as the main structure hasn't the glued in top and front anymore. Hob is placed cental in the worktop, but with offset to the left on top of the unit, to allow for plenty of clearence when you are reaching down to open the door

How as the hob is originally designed for a domestic enviroment with a standard thickness worktop, i made up so small blocks to enable the hob to sit down flush, there is only a 1mm gap, i will run and smooth off this with black silicone as i didnt like the gap left by the foam seal, which is only a water splash seal, i dont intend on leaking water all over the worktop, so a silicone edge with be a neater solution.

Gas pipe connected. I had a connector which was supplied with the hob, soldered onto the 8mm copper i am using by a very kind member of out local VW group, North Devon VW Club, cheers Caveman, job well done, easy for a fridge engineer with oxy-acetalene power!

Bent and adjusted so the copper and flexi moves clear of the threaded bracket, fitted proper connection, gas ptfe tap and leak tested all joints. Jets changed to lpg. Copper pipe clipped to wood with p clip.

This is the clearance at the rear. Now the thin wood piece which normally sits at the rear of the unit against the bulkhead under the sink top has been removed, and it still retains the half partition in the pull down drawer. Ventillation should be ok. I had also opened up the hole the sink drain went through, so there is additional cool air available just slightly under the rear of the fridge at the compressor side, though the floor into the bellypans and out. Standard westy hole. I'll fit a small drain for the fridge defrost water at a later date down this hole as i ran out of time, and it was raining harder too. :roll:

Sorted

And finally, I replaced the US spec rear lights for new repro units, along with new seals from WCM.

Here you can see the differance. I have some chrome paint, but the rain was coming.... The right hand side is the brake light, and the left is normal side lights. I have also fitted LED rear bulbs, with 136 SMD's in each bulb, much better, shouldn't have to bother with replacing these for a while.

More to follow........

Cheers!

Alistair

 

[68_early_bay]

Nice work very 8) LEDs

 

[uglybugger]

Hi Allistair

Congrats on the little baby!

As said before I love your work and the state of the westy woodwork baffles me

If you remember I've got something like your refrigerator set-up as well.
http://forum.earlybay.com/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=42874

I had some worries about the ventilation behind the refrigerator too, because of the tight fitting. I've removed the iron frame in the front. Now I can place the refrigerator more to the front and gain an extra inch of clearance in the back.

Good job with the cooker! Looks nice

UB

 

[aogrady]

Hi Allistair

Congrats on the little baby!

As said before I love your work and the state of the westy woodwork baffles me

If you remember I've got something like your refrigerator set-up as well.
http://forum.earlybay.com/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=42874

I had some worries about the ventilation behind the refrigerator too, because of the tight fitting. I've removed the iron frame in the front. Now I can place the refrigerator more to the front and gain an extra inch of clearance in the back.

Good job with the cooker! Looks nice

UB

Hi,

Cheers! Off out in the sun today for a steam train ride!

Yes, I saw your fridge install, and would have liked a little more space at the rear too, but I liked the original door closure with the magnetic seal on the galvanised steel surround, also hides a little of the gap too. If i find some brushed stainless, I'd like to trim over the top with this, or maybe just paint it a nice colour, i have some metallic brown which is retro....

I may also redrill the hole which has the threaded support bolt in, allowing me to move the actual unit forward, though I'll be left with a gap which i will need to retrim, no worries, i have wood and plenty of cork! :lol:

Pleased with the hob, works well. When i have a little more time, will design the swing out part, i have the wood and the hinges, not much time though....

Cheers!

Alistair

 

[aogrady]

Hi!

Had a great day out on Sunday, we all went off to Minehead to see Thomas and Friends, a nice drive from our house in Instow, across the moors, Simonsbath, Lynmouth, and Countisbury and Porlock Hill, and across the coastal road over to Minehead (and back again!)

Here's some pics when we stopped at the top of Porlock, after ice cream stop and onwards towards Countisbury looking down the hill

Cheers!

Alistair

 

[r73]

Great photos, looks like a good day out. 8)