Heater Tube Replacement

[Hodge]

Hi All,

Has anyone got any info on replacing the main heater tube, are these welded to the crossmembers or just push fit?

 

[AlanWesty]

They are welded. I removed mine and found a suitable conduit pipe that fitted perfectly. Will check if I have a photo somewhere.

 

[Hodge]

Thanks for the reply, getting some work done on the chassis so just trying to understand what else I need.

 

[philstar]

This is a great thread: https://earlybay.com/threads/heating-finally-sorted.79459/

 

[YellowBay69]

Had mine replaced. Welded in.

 

[fallingoffalot]

I'm hoping to reinstall my hot air blowers, do you need to take the engine out to get the tube in, or can you do it in bits?

 

[YellowBay69]

Not sure sorry- i didn’t do the welding work and my engine was out anyways.
Would imagine it’s a royal pain in the *** with engine in. For time it takes i’d take engine out.
But i’m no expert.

 

[naskeet]

I'm hoping to reinstall my hot air blowers, do you need to take the engine out to get the tube in, or can you do it in bits?

To what "hot air blowers" do you refer?

That steel duct-work will need some decent, non-water-absorbent thermal insulation, if the "hot-air" is to remain reasonably warm when it arrives at the cab vents!

 

[YellowBay69]

Great link Philstar - I had in mind to super insulate pipes. Was thinking that ceramic bandage stuff you see on exhausts. Interesting that there’s many that say if it’s set up properly it does work well. As i’m trying to stay stock it was the way to go for me. Not tested it yet (still to get van on road) but will report back when done.
Good luck with it all Fallingoffalot

 

[YellowBay69]

Hodge …. sorry.

 

[Hodge]

no problem all good information, good to see everyone’s points

 

[fallingoffalot]

To what "hot air blowers" do you refer?

That steel duct-work will need some decent, non-water-absorbent thermal insulation, if the "hot-air" is to remain reasonably warm when it arrives at the cab vents!

The main tube through the chassis rails - I'm guessing only an issue if you actually have to push it all the way through for some reason.

 

[67panel]

On my 68 there is a cover over the Y piece and all the way down the centre pipe, they have press studs from new (cable ties now!!) . You need to remove one of the end bits to slide the new centre in, not an easy job.

 

[naskeet]

The main tube through the chassis rails - I'm guessing only an issue if you actually have to push it all the way through for some reason.

I don't know of any hot-air blowers in the main central duct!?!

 

[mike202]

On my 68 there is a cover over the Y piece and all the way down the centre pipe, they have press studs from new (cable ties now!!) . You need to remove one of the end bits to slide the new centre in, not an easy job.

I first used silver bubble wrap type insulation with cable ties, along the main heater tube. This was a new tube in 2011 as the OG one was missing. I recently replaced the insulation with a good replica of the original style. It looks a lot better but wasn’t cheap !

 

[naskeet]

I don't know of any hot-air blowers in the main central duct!?!

I am hoping to retro-fit one or more in-line, axial-flow, electric heater-booster fans, for use with the 1911 cm³ displacement, VW 17/1800 Type 4 style hybrid air-cooled engine, but I have yet to identify any of an appropriate size which will tolerate the heat. Kingfisher Customs used to offer a centrifugal, electric booster-fan, which replaced the duct elbow below the front of the cab floor, but I don't know whether these or something similar are available now.

This is the only electric heater-booster fan that I have had on my 1973 VW 1600 Type 2.

Note the welded-on, captive M6 nuts, in each of the vertical ribs of the removable fuel-tank compartment bulkhead, repainted with a much more attractive, silver-grey, hammered-finish, Hammerite paint, purchased in the early-1980s by mail-order, direct from Finnigan's Speciality Paints Ltd.

White nylon spacer, with ¼ inch earth-teminal, on the dashboard, control-lever, spindle bracket, which fits behind the instrument panel. This provides the switch-current ground, for the relay of the stock, factory-fitted, heater-booster fan (located in the engine compartment), of the 1972~79 VW 17/18/2000 Type 2. They act as the fan switch, when the flaps on the exhaust heat exchangers are opened. This type of spacer, is NOT found on the 1968~79 VW 1600 Type 2, but can be retro-fitted, if desired, as I have done, on my 1973 VW 1600 Type 2.

I used both the white nylon spacer with earth-terminal, in series with a single-pole dashboard switch, so that the electric booster fan only operates, when the heat-exchanger flaps are open, but doesn't operate unless the dashboard switch is also closed.