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sidneyvw

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Finally after many years yearning we picked up our first bay on May bank holiday. she is a 72 x-over with MOT we got off evilbay for 390. I have put three hundred miles on her already. But today between the showers I finally got round to cleaning her and having a pock around.7

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I have a couple questions
1 why is there such a large gap between the top of the wheel and the arch? the alloys are 15" with 205X 55 ( makes parking a b***h)?
2 the front panel on the old girl is shot how hard is it to replace these, I used to be a welder by trade and have done a fair few panel replacments in my time but nothing this big and which panel shop should I buy them from?
3. when I put a full tank of fuel in her she smells of petrol inside until she gets down to about half a tank, someone mentioned the breathers on the tank can perish. the PO said his mechanic said the carb need replacing?? I have a refit kit for the carb.

Simon
 
Very nice looking van 8)
The standard 14inch wheels have 75 or 80 profile tyres wich will stand taller than the 55/15's you have on there. The gap on a standard height Bay at the front is quite large anyway but exagerated by the lower diamiter wheel/tyre combo you have there.
Not a fan of them there wheels to be honest but the van itself is propper cool 8)

Rich
 
Cheers I don't like them either but they cam on the bus would like a set of Radars but I might just go stock
 
nice looking van,
Hoosier said:
Very nice looking van 8)

Not a fan of them there wheels to be honest but the van itself is propper cool 8)

Rich

I dunno, get it in the weeds and keep em, would look quite cool (i seem to disagree with most people on here as to what looks good, i think i just have better taste :lol: )

And with regards to doing the front end, its not a huge job, theres plenty of spot welds to drill out around the grille and none of the repro panels iv used have ever fitted right without tweaking, but if i can replace panels with my limited skills (a trained monkey might be more competent) then you should have no problem.

Most people on here seem to use Custom & Commercial or Alan Schofields for parts. but im sure someone will be along to correct me and say thats why my bits never fitted. lol.
 
gvee said:
£390? Daaaaaaaaaam!
:shock: :shock: :shock: :shock:
I know I have just see that on the Scholfield site but they do a DIY for 180 which must be the same as the JK panel which is four sections that need nitting together. Does the bus need bracing when the front panel comes off. when I have done the mk1 Golfs we put bracing in the engine bay to stop the front going out of whack

Cheers for the comments I might give it a little tap with the lowering stick at the front. although I am a sucker for a shiny stocker. just have to see what the future brings

Simon
 
For parts I use VW heritage, C&C, Schofields, or Machine 7, these are the only ones that have never let me down...I would only ever use Just Kampers if I'm beyond desperate!!!!!

For the smell of fuel, I would, for piece of mind, systematically go through the whole fuel sytstem and replace all hoses. Also look at the fuel hose that connects the filler to the tank.

No bracing required for removing the front panel, if you've done panel work before it shouldn't trouble you at all, it might look daunting, but it isn't that bad :)

And just for the record, I don't like 3 spokes rims...sorry

:D
 
This should help give you an idea of what to expect when tackling the front panel:
http://forum.earlybay.com/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=31169&start=20" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

That said, the trouble is that a panel for early bays isn't available so it's quite a lot of work making it 'right' and a clean EB cutoff from someone like FBI may be a better starting point.

But before going that far, is it worth stripping the paint to see how bad it is? Unless it's got accident damage, there's repair panels for the common rot spots.

And I'm down enough with the kids to know that three spokes are back in fashion in some circles :shock:
 
Sorry there should be another 0 on the price 3900 to busy watching tele and trying to type

Thanks for the replies I have to say you guys are a lot more chatty than the T2 owners forum, I post up a hello over there three weeks ago and not one reply.

From a pock look see at the front panel it is the windscreen drivers side, both headlight outer dishes? and indicator surrounds. I did think that a clean cut off front panel would be an easier option in terms of fitment as everyone does a four panel kit and weld along the bottom valence will most likely buckle the panel. i'd have to break out the old TIG welder for that one.

aving just loocked out Scholfields again it would be easy to get a lower valence and hack off the bits I want and a windscreen repair kit. I have not see repair panels for the outer headlight area but it should be easy enoght to knock up a panel for that as it is basiclly a half moon bashed about a bit ;)

Cheers for the replies

Simon
 
If you can fix the front panel I would go for that option, to be honest the complete front panels are a pain in arse to fit and are not great, you also end up having to fill the pieces where they have blanked over the high indicators.

A lower inner and outer valance isn't too hard a job especially if you only cut off what needs replacing, the same with the windscreen repair, buy the bulge but only use what you need to.

Good luck and I have to say get rid of those wheels and tyres, the 205/55/15 gives you too small a rolling radius on the back which means your engine is working too hard to maintain the speed, short term solution would be to put some stock wheels and tyres back on, it will ride a lot better............then get it lower :mrgreen:
 
Thanks guys all sound advice

I have had a semi sucessful couple of days as I have been on holiday this week. we where going to go down to park farm at bodiam but have where hampered by the lack of a gas bottle (they are impossible to get if you don't have one) still I gave up on the local suppliers and ordered one direct from Calor so may be next weekend.

Anyway I have stripped down and rebuit the passenger side door lock so it now opens with the key and you don't need to be popeye to pull the level inside. Gave the interior a spruce up and clean out.

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When I picked the bus up it had a tin headlining pop riveted to the body(the PO used this just about everywhere) which made an incredible racket I have striped most of it out. Still have the bit at the back to do. we are going to have a go at making a vinyl roof lining for it but want to give it a coat of paint before we do.

I got the electronic chock out and got that working, need the rivets tighting not that it has made much difference. put a new gasket in the right hand exhaust to inlet pipe which was poping and wheehing

And I thought I had found the source of the oil leak but it would appear not I found that the back nut on the fuel pump was only finger tight so I took the fuel pump of and cleaned all round and put back with new gaskets but I still have oil spraying over the top left hand side of the engine :cry:

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I have given up for now as my back and knees hurt and I have a round bruise in the middle of my forehead where I kept bashing it on the air filter intake :?
 
The oil leak could be coming from the oil cooler, as it's on that side.

:)
 
It's Ok I found it in the Hayes manual OMG :shock: looks easier to drop the engine to get at it then try in situ
 
moler said:
The oil leak could be coming from the oil cooler, as it's on that side.

:)

Yes I had this with my van once!!!! It was clean at the start of the trip and caked in oil by the end, the fan will throw it about like fook :shock:
 
sidneyvw said:
It's Ok I found it in the Hayes manual OMG :shock: looks easier to drop the engine to get at it then try in situ
Definitely engine out :)
 
Howdy :D

Nice van (hmm about the wheels though) - get stock wheels and see how you get on.

Oil leaks can be a bummer to locate sometimes but keep at it ;)
 

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