Running HOT!!!

[Mr_Dib]

Hi guys!

Been working my way through my 71 panel, replaced cracked heads, set all my clearances, new points, leads, plugs & coil... But he was still running hot (hot dipstick & also very hot inlet manifolds)

Did 50 miles on a hot day and it maintained temp, just a hotter than 'normal' (on other people's busses)

Thought it might be the oil cooler, changed that, still hot, so now I'm wondering if its
A, the generator/fan (on the last engine pull I noticed the didn't seem to be perfectly seated, there might be some friction on the fan, possibly?
B I've got an aftermarket exhaust on there and the previous ovner has butchered up the tinware to get it in... There's quite a lot of bare pipe work with the exhaust box virtually outside of the body, could it just be a whole lot of heat from this?
C I'm missing the rear lower 1/4 sections of tinware but can this really make a difference?

Has anyone had problems similar to this? Really thought the oil cooler would solve it ... Am I overlooking something obvious?

Cheers for your help with this one!
Dibs

 

[A5H]

Running lean will make it run hot, took me a while to work out my fuel pump was on its way out and that's why mine was running hot.

Check mixture, air leaks etc. as well.

 

[Anonymous]

all tin where has to be there to direct the flow of air around the cylinder heads also some people forget to put back the deflector plates under the heads when they take the heads of they make a lot of difference but the weather has been exceptionally hot the last few days

 

[Mr_Dib]

Thanks guys, I'm looking for tinware now & will fabricate some deflectors for under the heads as mine are missing

I have an original pump on there, is it worth rebuilding that over buying a new sealed pump?

Also thought it might be worth heat wrapping the exhaust piping as alot of heat is coming from there, it's practically cooking the rear valance (which I assume is abnormal)

 

[bac2ba6]

Dont heat wrap it !!!! i did on mine and the oil temp went through the roof !!!! .

A mate of mine then explained to me that metal is a good conductor of heat eg the exhaust , and as you driving or stationary the heat dissipates off the exhaust into the air , like a radiator in your house . if you wrap everything then the heat has nowhere to go and has to go somewhere, so the exhaust gets hotter and therefore so does the engine . i can see his theory behind this but dunno how true it is .
All i know is i took it all off and the oil temp went back down to normal again .

Just an opinion mind you

 

[A5H]

I have an original pump on there, is it worth rebuilding that over buying a new sealed pump?

Mine was an electric pump, so obviously a different issue, but I just wanted to point out that hot running was down to lean fueling, so worth checking the fueling as well as tinware

 

[Mr_Dib]

Cheers mate... Taken onboard

 

[the_troupster]

I had to do a running repair whilst away last week... I was suffering some lurching whilst climbing hills. I thought it was overheating, sticking valve, pinging etc. It got so bad that it cut out at the top of one particular hill. I rolled back into a turning and was able to establish that it was actually a fuelling issue.

As mentioned above, the fuel pushrod wears (shorten). I was able to fix simply by removing a gasket between the fuel pump and crank case.

I expect it was running lean n hot at certain periods. I need to double check ignition advance also. Running to much advance can cause hot running.

I'll remove the fuel pipe to the carb soon and check fuel pressure. From memory I think it needs to be around 2.5psi

Hope these ramblings help
Jim

 

[dubscum]

my bus ran very hot, then it started cutting out when hot, would'nt hot start etc. Replaced everything, it was a worn fuel pump. ran 3 psi when cold dropped to 1 psi when hot. Got an electric fuel pump on now and its running slightly cooler.