Brosol H30 / 31 Carb. Setting the Idle

[Eeza]

They say a picture paints a thousand words so here goes: I am adjusting my carb after rebuilding it over the weekend :mrgreen:

The first setting in the process is to set the idle speed now before you do this you must set the actuator in the right place on the CAM (I think)

I have read a lot about setting up and some say set it against the last step ?? Now as I see it there is a Number of steps that drop down onto the cam in the picture. I think that the adjustment is made when the adjuster Pin is touching the CAM and not the Step if you know what I mean The Cam is being pointed at in the picture and identifies the adjuster as 1

From Rob and Dave's Historic Site :

With the choke held in the full open position (stepped cam at its lowest point), place a piece of notebook paper or a 0.003" feeler gauge between the lowest step of the choke fast idle cam the the Fast Idle Adjuster screw.

Slowly turn the screw in until you feel drag on the paper or the feeler gauge. Then remove the paper or feeler gauge and turn the screw in preciselly 1/2 turn - no more! This sets the throttle butterfly open the required 0.004", so you can use the Bypass Screw (read on) to set the idle speed correctly. From this point on, leave the Fast Idle Adjuster screw alone.

(stepped cam at its lowest point) Does this mean the CAM or the STEP doh

 

[Nugsy]

Basically where number 1 is now

Its connected the other end to the automatic choke and turns anticlockwise as the engine warms up. when its on its highest step the butterfly on the choke is closed. as it warms up it goes down the steps slowing opening the butterfly. Fully warm its where it is in the picture so you set it from there using the big gold air screw and the smaller mixture screw

Ive just cleaned all my carb why the engine was out. Put it back and having a nightmare tuning it. Timing, valves etc all done and spot on. Starts fine then when it gets warm it just dies. Put it on my mates MOT test thing and its running at 10% C02 (he said it should be around 3%) so far to rich. No matter what I do with the screws it wont idle well at all. Then noticed the bottom of the carb is wetting. Think when I cleaned it ive took out all the dirt/crud that had sealed it the last 20 years as its leaking petrol out the throttle shaft. I believe you can get kits for it but looking for another non leaking carb

 

[Eeza]

Nice one I thought it was, mine was set on the last true STEP and not against the CAM so no wonder it was odd to adjust

I went right through my carb over the weekend Its a Solex Copy / Brosol H30/31, not ideal for my vehicle but hey ho it is what it is for the time being. Picked up a kit from GSF and decided to strip it and give a good clean as I have been unhappy with the performance of the van etc. Not done many miles since the MOT and none at all for a few months due to the weather so i figured it had got nasty fuel inside.

I printed up a template of the removal sequence and decided to sellotape the parts to the sheet as I disassembled it to save me loosing anything, this this was a good idea as there are lots of small parts. (zoom in on the Picture Copy/Paste in word etc. then get busy with the clear tape)

What I found inside was pretty grim :lol:

Just a little cleaner now :mrgreen:

Looks like I have a 120 main jet, conventional wisdom says this is a little lean for a TP 1600 ?

Used the kit to replace the parts and other than a torrid time getting the tiny rubber o ring over the Volume control screw it went in easy
I started the van up with the default settings and it idles better but needs adjusting now to bring it into spec.

It started real good and I just need to do the adjustments as per Rob and Dave's site. The good thing was I could hear the engine note change a few seconds after making small tweaks so should be better.

 

[Nugsy]

wow top job done there

What do you get in the kit, does it come with new bushes for the throttle shaft as the guy on ebay every one recommends says it doesn't fit a brosol 30/31. Just wondered if you got em in the complete kit?

 

[strutt]

the bushes are not part of the kit, if your carb is a genuine Solex then these will fit: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/271168538390?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

I had a bocar carb before and they didnt work, in the end i purchased a second hand solex carb, my van has never quite idled right when warm and always died pulling up to a junction, only this very week i took it to a chap who tuned it better than ever!

so my advice would be, rebuild it, get the basic settings and take it to someone who has mastered the dark art of carb set ups! best of luck chaps!

 

[Nugsy]

Hi Strutt, from Cov myself, who tuned it for you. Was it the old boy who used to work at a place near the bottom of the Hollyhead road in the 80's? Used to take my 2 litre Mk1 escort to him regular. Unit aint there anymore but know he is still about somewhere?

cheers
Karl

p.s. its got Solex in one side of the float but the other side has Brosol written on it. Think the link you gave is the ones ive found on ebay

PLEASE NOTE WON'T FIT THE BOCAR (CHEAPY CARB) Brocal H30/31 carb

 

[Nugsy]

do, cheers Strutt should have read my pm's first :lol:

Hoping to get a decent 34PICT off Type2Tattoo on here, then will get the number of you and take it over to him if that's ok. Got a 2000 mile round trip planned for July so need it setting up right

thanks
Karl

 

[Eeza]

Solex is best but :idea:

I think conventional wisdom is that the Bocar are not so good whereas the Brosol (It says Solex on the body) are fine ?

The kit as indicated didn’t have a lot of stuff in it but for £15 the gear it did have was good quality, I got it from GSF in Newcastle. there was a new float valve some rubber O rings for the adjusters and a collection of washers and gaskets and new diaphragms for the throttle and choke areas

Runs better so far so Happy days